Our adventure begins from our base in Bali, after a security update and a little practice. We drive away from the main traffic through provincial and country roads, which only locals know and we cross one of the biggest olive groves of the island.
We explore 10 small traditional villages with narrow streets, meet local people and admire Venetian and Ottoman stone buildings of the 17th and 18th century, which will take us back in time to another era.
In one of our stops we explore one of the most important caves of Crete, Melidoni cave, which is located on top of a mountain.
We enjoy the amazing panoramic view of the beautiful valley, with dozens of villages and the highest mountain of Crete called Psiloritis – Idi.
We have much fun on the dirt roads, passing through the fields as we discover unique picturesque landscapes of the beautiful wildlife of Crete.
We’ll make enough stops during our safari, offering excellent opportunities for amazing pictures and breathtaking landscapes.
Benefit from pick-up at your hotel in the Rethymno area, and then explore the traditional lifestyle and historical legacy of Crete.
Learn the Neolithic history of the Melidoni Cave and discover the pottery traditions of the village of Margarites.
Discover the oldest monastery in Crete at the 16th-century Arkadi Monastery, and then go to the village of Apostoli to visit an old olive oil factory. Enjoy lunch in a traditional tavern and listen to the beautiful sound of live folk music before making your way to St. Antonios Gorge. Stop at the Fragma Potamon dam before making your way back to Rethymno.
Experience the ultimate cross-country adventure with Nostos Safari. This unique cross-country real-off-road experience takes you from the coast to the mountains. Drive through off-road routes and pass through breathtaking landscapes, from traditional village alleys to stunning mountain passes. With Nostos Safari, you’ll have the freedom and adventure of a quad bike to explore the stunning natural landscapes of Crete. Discover the unforgettable experience of cross-country living and book your quad safari today with Nostos Safari.
We have designed this unforgettable trip to submerge you into an authentic way of life in one of the island’s most beautiful regions while gaining a deeper understanding of the relationship between history, stunning escapes, gastronomy, and the authentic Cretan local lifestyle.
You will also visit the world-famous Palace of Knossos, where your expert guide will ensure skip-the-line access to all archaeological areas, key pieces of information, and extra-personalized attention.
Then, from the history and cultural experience, you will be immersed in another time wandering the unspoiled Cretan landscape along with authentic layers of flavors, wines, and village life of the island of Crete.
Enjoy personal pick-up and drop-off with a premium vehicle at your full-day disposal, like a true VIP.
The beach of Agios Nikolaos, situated slightly west of Bali in the province of Mylopotamos, is nestled in a secluded area. The beach’s name is derived from the Byzantine two-nave church of Saint Nicholas, which is positioned within a lush green creek leading to a stunning cove. Despite the ravine drying out towards the end of spring, the presence of numerous plane trees indicates the existence of water.
The cove is encased by striking limestone rocks that create small caves, adding to the charm of Agios Nikolaos. The beach, however, has a rocky seabed and is almost semicircular in shape. Unfortunately, it is often littered with trash brought in by the north winds.
Access to Agios Nikolaos beach is via two poorly maintained dirt roads that start near the motorway, beyond Bali. One of these routes, which first ascends to the antennas at Bombadopirgos peak before descending to the beach, is closed off. The other route approaches the beach from the east, but due to its poor condition, a walk of roughly 10 minutes is required.
The Skepasti beaches, situated roughly 27km to the east of Rethymnon and a mere 2km eastward from the namesake village Skepasti in the Milopotamos province, are predominantly reachable via poor dirt roads that originate from the village. Among these beaches, the local population’s favourite is Koukistres. The Skepasti beaches, which are exposed to the northern winds, are characterized by their pebbly texture and deep waters. They are entirely unorganized and quite a distance from the closest hotels and eateries, which are located in Panormos. Thus, it’s essential to bring all necessities if you plan to visit. The surrounding terrain, marked by rugged Cretan landscapes and barren, rocky grounds, adds to the remote charm.
While here, it’s recommended to combine beach activities with a trip to the quaint, traditional village of Skepasti. The village derives its name from the Byzantine church of Panagia Skepasti, which has a fascinating legend associated with it that’s worth exploring.
| Beach | Character | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Livadi | Longest beach; open bay, more exposed to wind; lively | Space, easy access, first stop in the village |
| Varkotopos | Secluded bay; sand and gravel; shallow water | Young children, families |
| Limani (Harbor) | Beside the port; restaurants and shops | Eating out, a swim near the harbor |
| Karavostasis | Smallest and prettiest; can feel crowded | A scenic swim, photos |
Panormo, located approximately 20km east of the city of Rethymnon in the Milopotamos province, is a peaceful coastal village. It has experienced rapid growth in recent years while preserving its traditional charm. Its attractiveness lies in the untouched beauty of the Cretan countryside, the charming village, stunning beaches, and convenient accessibility.
Panormo boasts two primary beaches and several smaller ones. The village’s Greek name, which translates to ‘a location with a natural port’, aptly describes Panormos as it is a natural harbour with tranquil waters. The beach at the harbour, known as Limanaki, serves as the region’s port. It’s sandy, with clear waters, making it perfect for families with young children due to its shallow waters and the protection from waves provided by a cement pier. The beach is well-equipped with umbrellas, showers, water sports facilities, and plenty of accommodation and dining options nearby. Adjacent to Limanaki is a smaller, less populated sandy beach.
The second main beach, Limni, is situated just 200m west of the village. Similar to Limanaki, it is sandy and shielded by a rocky pier, essentially dividing it into two separate beaches. Further east, a small, secluded cove with a pebbly beach is perfect for undisturbed relaxation and snorkelling during calm seas. Panormo can be reached via direct bus services from Rethymnon or suburban bus services between Heraklion and Rethymnon. Excursion boats also operate from the local harbour.
A short history of the area
Panormo is historically significant and is thought to be located on the site of the ancient city of Panormus. The discovery of the impressive basilica of St. Sophia, dating back to the 6th century AD, confirms the presence of an ancient city. The basilica, situated 500m southwest of the village, is considered one of the largest Christian churches in Greece and the biggest in West Crete. The village is also known as Kastelli of Milopotamos, named after the fort built by the Genoese conquerors in 1206, which was later captured by the Venetians. Remnants of this fort can still be seen near the harbour.
In more recent history, Panormo served as a hub for transporting goods produced in the surrounding region, particularly olives and carobs. A renovated old carob mill, now used as a cultural centre, can still be visited. The village was bombed during the German Occupation. The construction of a new national road in the 1970s, adjacent to the village, and the building of a marina in 1980 has contributed to Panormo’s tourism growth. The village celebrates three festivals every year: Ascension, St. John on June 24, and St. Nicholas on December 6.
The ancient site of Eleftherna is situated 25km southeast of Rethymno and in close proximity to the Monastery of Arkadi. It is the most significant archaeological location in the Rethymno prefecture, with many areas still to be excavated. The University of Crete began the first organized excavations in 1985.
Eleftherna was established by the Dorians around the 9th century BC and was inhabited until the early Byzantine years. Its strategic location at an altitude of 380m, with roads connecting it to ancient Kydonia, Knossos, and Ida Mount, contributed to its long history. Findings have been discovered in three different positions on the same hill.
During the first Cretan War (205BC-200BC), Eleftherna sided with Macedonia against Knossos. The town resisted the Roman occupation, led by general Quintus Caecilius Metellus, until it eventually fell by treachery. In the Roman period, the city continued to prosper, with the construction of baths, cisterns, villas, public buildings, and towers. The Byzantine era marked the last period of the city before its destruction by the Arabs. It became a Diocese, and the great basilica, of which remains still stand today, was built. The significance of Eleftherna as an archaeological site led to the creation of the Archaeological Museum of Eleftherna above the site.
At the Orthi Petra position, a necropolis was discovered, becoming the most important part of Eleftherna with numerous findings (and still being excavated). Here, archaeologists found the “tomb of warriors” containing 480 vases, weapons, and the trench of warriors killed in battle.
In 2010, archaeologists discovered an unlooted tomb from 700BC. The tomb was a large lying jar, with its entrance blocked by an 800kg boulder. Inside the jar were the bones of a young couple, possibly siblings, covered with a gold cap made of 3000 gold sheets of different shapes. The girl wore gold jewelry depicting a bee, the first representation of a bee as a goddess in Crete. Interestingly, when the jewelry is turned upside down, the bee disappears, and a beautiful lily takes its place. In another jar, archaeologists found a golden, real-size eye among the bones. They named it “Tutankhamun’s eye” as it is identical to the one in the funerary mask of the Egyptian King.
About 4 km northeast from the village Margarites, in the province of Milopotamos, a dirt road leads to the Late Minoan domed tomb of Margarties dating back to 1350 BC, which is considered one of the most important sites in the area. An aisle with carved stones leads to a circular domed tomb. Inside it, the bones of four adults and two children were discovered. The findings suggest that they belonged to a higher social and religious class.
The Holy Cross Monastery (Timios Stavros) in Vosako is situated on a small plateau amidst the peaks of Koutroulis and Mesokofinas in the Talean Mountains, approximately 50km east of Rethymno. To reach the monastery, visitors can drive through the village of Doxaro, where they will be greeted by the stunning, rugged landscape. Alternatively, there is another route that begins in the village of Sisses.
The name Vossako is derived from the Greek words “vous” (buff) and “sakos” (fold), which translates to “cattle pen.” This is likely because the plateau was once used to feed cattle.
Constructed like a fortress, the monastery’s main temple (Katholiko) is dedicated to the Holy Cross. During celebrations, pilgrims embark on a challenging trek to the monastery from Kalo Horafi, near Panagia Charakiani in Bali, which takes around 2-3 hours.
Up until the late 20th century, the monastery lay in ruins and was completely abandoned. However, it has since been restored and now functions normally. The buildings are spread across two levels and feature two courtyards, with the main temple located in the southern courtyard. A beautiful Venetian fountain can be found outside the temple, while the main entrance is quite impressive.
Historically, the monastery played a significant role in the revolution against the Turks, leading to its destruction by them on two separate occasions.
Attali Monastery, also known as Bali Monastery, is situated on the hill of Agia Ypakoi, to the west of Bali, offering stunning sea views and easy access to the main road connecting Rethymnon and Heraklion. Before the highway was built in 1970, the area was quite isolated, allowing monasticism and asceticism to thrive.
This male monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and features a two-level complex. Near the grand entrance, you’ll find the stables, and as you explore further, you’ll come across the old mill, a pottery workshop, a bakery, the monks’ cells, and the refectory adorned with frescoes.
Unlike most Cretan monasteries, the church is situated on the northeast side of the complex and outside it. To protect the monks from frequent pirate attacks, a heavy door was installed to isolate the stairs leading to the temple, creating a fortress-like structure. However, the temple remains outside of this protective barrier.
The Bali area has been significant in local history due to its bay being a crucial point for supplying rebels with ammunition and communication with liberated Greece. The Turks attempted to occupy the area multiple times, causing severe damage to the monastery. Interestingly, there is another monastery named Bali in Sifnos, where it is believed that the monks of Attali transferred the sacred icon of Our Lady to protect it from Turkish hands.
Although one of the lowest peaks in the Talean Mountains of Rethymno, the summit of Apakoui holds great archaeological significance. It is strategically located above Bali, offering unobstructed views of the sea, Pyrovolopetra (the port of ancient Astali), and the plains of North Milopotamos. The name Apakoui is derived from the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos, who is said to listen to prayers.
On the summit of Apakoui, you can find scattered broken pottery and the remnants of old walls on a small artificial plateau, which is all that remains of the chapel of Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos. The church, built during early Christian times, was later destroyed, but its name lives on. A rough wooden cross stands nearby, signifying the area’s sacredness. The chapel was constructed on the site of a former Minoan Peak sanctuary, believed to have been the sanctuary of Astali. On the hill’s north side, a portion of the trail connecting Eleftherna to ancient Astali remains. The east side of Apakoui features a stone fountain that supplies water to Atali Monastery. However, the ascent to the summit is steep, dangerous, and the old path is damaged.
The monastery of St. John is home to the church of Panagia Charakiani, located just off the highway. According to tradition, a shepherd discovered the miraculous icon of Panagia in a cavernous rock (charaki). This icon is kept in the monastery and moved to Charakiani during August. Locals used to stay in reed huts for the first 15 days of August, leading up to the celebration of Panagia on August 15, though this tradition has declined in recent years. To the west of the church, you can find the blazon of the Kallergis family, the most influential Cretan family during the Venetian period.
Located 43km east of Rethymnon, the Diskouri Monastery is regarded as one of Crete’s oldest monasteries, with the nearby ornately adorned Byzantine church of Saint John the Baptist attesting to its age.
Currently owned by the Halepa Monastery, the complex is thought to have been constructed on top of an ancient temple of Dioscuri, though this has yet to be confirmed. It took on its present form during the final years of Venetian rule when it resembled a fortress.
The church of Saint George sits at the center of the courtyard, and its old icon of Saint George is well-known among Cretan herders who swear on it when accused of stealing animals.
Having been severely damaged by the Turks and the unsightly interventions of the 20th century, the monastery has significantly changed from its original form. Bishops Parthenios and Meletios, as well as Arkadi Monastery’s chieftain Paul Dedidakis, were laid to rest in the courtyard.
Perched atop a towering hill near the villages of Tsahiana and Veni, and 46km east of Rethymno, lies the Monastery of Christ the Savior of Chalepa. From this vantage point, visitors can enjoy breathtaking panoramic views of the Mylopotamos valley. Once a collection of ruins prior to 2000, the monastery has since been restored and now operates as one of the most picturesque monasteries in Crete.
The monastery’s surroundings are abundant with vineyards, olive trees, and in some areas, oak forests. Although the exact date of its establishment remains unknown, it is undoubtedly one of the oldest surviving monasteries in Crete, with its origins dating back to the Venetian period.
The main church, a two-aisled basilica without a dome, is dedicated to the Transfiguration of the Savior and the birth of Christ. Among the monastery’s highlights is the ancient relief fountain.
Located 300m outside the monastery, the Church of Agia Marina features old frescoes and the coat of arms of the Kallergis family, one of the most prominent families during the Venetian period. This suggests that the region was once part of their fiefdoms. The Kallergis family held such power that they were granted special privileges by the Venetians, which were unknown to other Cretans. Before relocating to its current site in 1673, the Halepa monastery initially functioned as a nunnery at this location.
Due to its strategic position and robust economic autonomy, the Halepa monastery served as the epicenter of numerous battles throughout the Ottoman period.
Margarites is a renowned village in the Milopotamos province, celebrated for its stunning architecture and traditional pottery. The broader region, encompassing the villages of Margarites, Orthe and Eleftherna, is characterized by a sequence of small, parallel gorges. Tiny watercourses like Margaritianos meander northwards, contributing to the Geropotamos River. These gorges are carved into the white-yellow marly limestone from the Upper Miocene era (8-10 million years ago), a result of the area’s uplift and water erosion.
The gorges’ most striking features are their abundant flora and extraordinary environment. Small groups of horizontally branched cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var horizontal) blend with low shrubs, wildflowers, and aromatic plants. The local authorities have fashioned small trails that reveal the area’s beauty to visitors.
Arkadi Gorge is a moderate 4.5 km hike in the Rethymno region of Crete that starts just north of Arkadi Monastery and takes about 2 hours to walk. The route follows the eastern bank of a green, rocky ravine, ends near the village of Pikris where it meets the Gypofarago gorge, and pairs naturally with a visit to the historic monastery above it. There is no entrance fee and no facilities on the trail, so you carry your own water and food.This guide covers what the gorge is, how hard it is, how to reach the trailhead, what you see along the way, how to combine it with the monastery, and what to pack.
The Zoniana canyon is situated to the south of Zoniana village within the Psiloritis Range. It begins at a height of 950m, gathering water from several streams that flow from the Zoniana mountains, and concludes at the village at a height of 650m. The “serpentine” river Oaxis, which carries water until spring and ultimately drains into the Geropotamos river, flows through this gorge.
This gorge is not only easily accessible but also safe for hiking due to its gentle slope. The rock formations in many areas are truly remarkable, made up of numerous layers, and there are stunning geological structures and trees clinging to the steep slopes and narrow points. As it nears the village, the canyon broadens and morphs into a slender valley.
The Platania Gorge, positioned above the Platania village, links the southeast slopes of the Psiloritis range to the Amari valley, approximately 38km southeast of Rethymno. The river flowing through it collects water from the west of the Migia (1584m) and Spathi (1779m) peaks and channels it to the River Platys, which terminates in Agia Galini. A challenging yet secure trail winds its way up to the starting point at Kokkinoharako, skirting its steep slopes. The trail provides hikers with breathtaking views of the towering cliffs, vertical limestone rocks displaying yellow-red hues of erosion, rock shelters, and numerous caves.
At roughly 800m altitude, a small plateau hosts the cave-like church of Saint Anthony (Agios Antonios), constructed near a spring. The trail from Agios Antonios continues its ascent northwest, meeting a dirt road originating from the Vistagi village. On the opposite side of the gorge, in the east, lies the Panas cave, named after the ancient god Pan, god of the wild, shepherds, and flocks, who, as per local folklore, was born here. The cave houses petroglyphs from the Minoan era, indicating continuous worship at the site. The same dirt road from Vistagi provides access to the nearby church of Saint Mammes (Agios Mamas), the patron saint of shepherds in Christianity.
The Platania Gorge’s interior is stunning, though few get to witness it due to its steep waterfalls, which require technical canyoning equipment to navigate. The tallest waterfall stands at approximately 40m. The first known crossing of the gorge was in 2008 by the canyoning group of Giannis Bromirakis and Christoforos Cheiladakis. The cliffs provide a nesting habitat for various bird species, including vultures, hawks, wild pigeons, and crows.
Boasting air-conditioned accommodation with a private pool, pool view and a balcony, Chara Villas with 20m2 swimming pool-BBQ! is situated in Melidhónion. It has a garden, barbecue facilities, inner courtyard views and free WiFithroughout the property.
The villa features 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, bed linen, towels, a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, a dining area, a fully equipped kitchen, and a terrace with mountain views.
A car rental service is available at the villa.
Museum of Ancient Eleftherna is 14 km from Chara Villas with 20m2 swimming pool-BBQ!, while Archaeological Museum of Rethymno is 28 km from the property. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 55 km from the accommodation.
from
€316
/night
Featuring air-conditioned accommodation with a private pool, 2 bedroom Villa with heated swimming pool-Spa whirlpool-BBQ! is located in Melidhónion. This property offers access to a balcony, free private parking and free WiFi.
The villa is equipped with 2 bedrooms, 1 bathroom, bed linen, towels, a flat-screen TV with streaming services, a dining area, a fully equipped kitchen, and a terrace with mountain views.
At the villa guests are welcome to take advantage of a hot tub. A car rental service is available at 2 bedroom Villa with heated swimming pool-Spa whirlpool-BBQ!.
Museum of Ancient Eleftherna is 14 km from the accommodation, while Archaeological Museum of Rethymno is 29 km away. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 55 km from 2 bedroom Villa with heated swimming pool-Spa whirlpool-BBQ!.
Featuring a garden, barbecue facilities, and a terrace, Wild Violet Villa: an old vision of luxury offers accommodation in Melidhónion with free WiFi and mountain views. The air-conditioned accommodation is 43 km from Matala.
The villa comes with 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, bed linen, towels, a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, a dining area, a fully equipped kitchen, and a patio with garden views.
Heraklio Town is 50.6 km from the villa, while Rethymno Town is 24 km away. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 53.7 km from Wild Violet Villa: an old vision of luxury.
Boasting mountain views, VLASSIS APTS – 2 space STUDIO ELENI Melidoni Rethymno features accommodation with a garden and a balcony, around 14 km from Museum of Ancient Eleftherna. The property has garden and inner courtyard views, and is 28 km from Archaeological Museum of Rethymno.
The country house comes with a flat-screen TV. The kitchenette has a microwave, a fridge and kitchenware, as well as coffee machine and kettle.
The country house offers a terrace.
Psiloritis National Park is 44 km from VLASSIS APTS – 2 space STUDIO ELENI Melidoni Rethymno, while Arkadi Monastery is 20 km from the property. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 56 km from the accommodation.
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