Geropotamos beach

Spilies, also known as “Tou Maliou to Riaki” or Maliou stream, is a hidden gem located 15km to the east of Rethymnon city. Nestled between Skaleta and Geropotamos, the area is serene and tranquil, despite its proximity to the main highway that links Heraklion and Rethymno.

This hidden paradise is nestled in a small rocky bay, boasting of a pebbly beach with crystal clear and deep waters, shielded by towering cliffs. The defining feature of the cove is the stunning cavernous rocks that shelter the small beach from the west. Beyond the western and eastern ends of the beach, several sea caves and rock formations with extraordinary shapes adorn the landscape. Unfortunately, a portion of the eastern caves collapsed in the winter of 2011-12. These caves serve as crucial habitats for endangered species like the Mediterranean monk seal.

For an adventurous day, explore the rocky shores east of the beach, leading to the remarkable natural rocky arch of Geropotamos.

The beach provides basic amenities such as umbrellas, beds, and a small canteen. However, be wary of waves, which are a common occurrence due to the northern winds.

To reach the beach from Rethymnon, take the main road to Heraklion. After passing Skaleta, you’ll spot “Creta Farm”, followed by two gas stations on either side of the road. A short path to the beach begins behind the gas station on your left, marked by a sign to Spilies (ΣΠΗΛΙΕΣ). To avoid a left turn on the national road, it’s recommended to enter the station on your right and then turn back towards Rethymno.

Panormo, located approximately 20km east of the city of Rethymnon in the Milopotamos province, is a peaceful coastal village. It has experienced rapid growth in recent years while preserving its traditional charm. Its attractiveness lies in the untouched beauty of the Cretan countryside, the charming village, stunning beaches, and convenient accessibility.

Panormo boasts two primary beaches and several smaller ones. The village’s Greek name, which translates to ‘a location with a natural port’, aptly describes Panormos as it is a natural harbour with tranquil waters. The beach at the harbour, known as Limanaki, serves as the region’s port. It’s sandy, with clear waters, making it perfect for families with young children due to its shallow waters and the protection from waves provided by a cement pier. The beach is well-equipped with umbrellas, showers, water sports facilities, and plenty of accommodation and dining options nearby. Adjacent to Limanaki is a smaller, less populated sandy beach.

The second main beach, Limni, is situated just 200m west of the village. Similar to Limanaki, it is sandy and shielded by a rocky pier, essentially dividing it into two separate beaches. Further east, a small, secluded cove with a pebbly beach is perfect for undisturbed relaxation and snorkelling during calm seas. Panormo can be reached via direct bus services from Rethymnon or suburban bus services between Heraklion and Rethymnon. Excursion boats also operate from the local harbour.

A short history of the area

Panormo is historically significant and is thought to be located on the site of the ancient city of Panormus. The discovery of the impressive basilica of St. Sophia, dating back to the 6th century AD, confirms the presence of an ancient city. The basilica, situated 500m southwest of the village, is considered one of the largest Christian churches in Greece and the biggest in West Crete. The village is also known as Kastelli of Milopotamos, named after the fort built by the Genoese conquerors in 1206, which was later captured by the Venetians. Remnants of this fort can still be seen near the harbour.

In more recent history, Panormo served as a hub for transporting goods produced in the surrounding region, particularly olives and carobs. A renovated old carob mill, now used as a cultural centre, can still be visited. The village was bombed during the German Occupation. The construction of a new national road in the 1970s, adjacent to the village, and the building of a marina in 1980 has contributed to Panormo’s tourism growth. The village celebrates three festivals every year: Ascension, St. John on June 24, and St. Nicholas on December 6.

Commencing 11km east of Rethymno and extending 3km eastward is the Skaleta beachfront, marking the end of the expansive beach of the Bay of Rethymno. The first resort you encounter after Pighianos Kampos is Sfakaki, which is exceptionally well arranged.

Stavromenos beach is the next stop, just 1km away, named after the area’s synonymous settlement. The beaches here are predominantly sandy and meticulously organized, with spots featuring pebbles and tiny rocks. As you journey eastward, the sandy stretch narrows down and gradually fades until it vanishes at the end of the Rethymno Gulf.

Continuing another 1km, you will reach the final segment of the immense East Rethymnon beachfront, Skaleta. Like all beaches on the north coast, Skaleta beachfront is exposed to the winds and typically experiences waves. The surrounding area has seen considerable development in recent years, now abounding with large hotels and tourist facilities. Regular bus services are available from Rethymno to Sfakaki, Stavromenos, and Skaleta.

From May to September, summer nights bring an extraordinary sight as loggerhead sea turtles lay their eggs in the Gulf’s sand. It’s not uncommon to see small areas of the beach cordoned off and inaccessible to visitors where nests have been spotted.

The Skepasti beaches, situated roughly 27km to the east of Rethymnon and a mere 2km eastward from the namesake village Skepasti in the Milopotamos province, are predominantly reachable via poor dirt roads that originate from the village. Among these beaches, the local population’s favourite is Koukistres. The Skepasti beaches, which are exposed to the northern winds, are characterized by their pebbly texture and deep waters. They are entirely unorganized and quite a distance from the closest hotels and eateries, which are located in Panormos. Thus, it’s essential to bring all necessities if you plan to visit. The surrounding terrain, marked by rugged Cretan landscapes and barren, rocky grounds, adds to the remote charm.

While here, it’s recommended to combine beach activities with a trip to the quaint, traditional village of Skepasti. The village derives its name from the Byzantine church of Panagia Skepasti, which has a fascinating legend associated with it that’s worth exploring.