Skepasti beaches (Koukistres)

The Skepasti beaches, situated roughly 27km to the east of Rethymnon and a mere 2km eastward from the namesake village Skepasti in the Milopotamos province, are predominantly reachable via poor dirt roads that originate from the village. Among these beaches, the local population’s favourite is Koukistres. The Skepasti beaches, which are exposed to the northern winds, are characterized by their pebbly texture and deep waters. They are entirely unorganized and quite a distance from the closest hotels and eateries, which are located in Panormos. Thus, it’s essential to bring all necessities if you plan to visit. The surrounding terrain, marked by rugged Cretan landscapes and barren, rocky grounds, adds to the remote charm.

While here, it’s recommended to combine beach activities with a trip to the quaint, traditional village of Skepasti. The village derives its name from the Byzantine church of Panagia Skepasti, which has a fascinating legend associated with it that’s worth exploring.

About Skepasti village

Skepasti is a traditional village in the Milopotamos province of the Rethymno region, and the beaches 2 km east of it carry its name. The village itself is named after the Byzantine church of Panagia Skepasti, and every track down to the shore starts from its lanes. The tracks are dirt roads in poor condition, so the village is the last point on the way in with a paved surface.

Heraklion airport lies 43 km east of the beaches and Heraklion city about 40 km. The nearest hotels, tavernas and shops are at Panormo, a former fishing village of about 400 year-round residents built around a natural harbour 2.5 km west, described on our guide to Panormo village. Bali, a coastal resort set in a wide bay 6.2 km east, is the other place close enough to use as a base, and it has its own page on Bali village.

Inland the Milopotamos country opens up within a short drive. Margarites, 9.8 km away, is known for its architecture and its traditional pottery, and it sits above a run of small parallel gorges cut into white-yellow marly limestone; both have pages here, Margarites town and Margarites Gorge. A longer walk starts 14.6 km away at Arkadi Gorge, a 4.5 km route of about 2 hours that begins just north of Arkadi Monastery.

The beaches have no shops, no tavernas and no water, so everything has to come with you or from the villages behind. The closest places to eat are Coffee Boss Panormo 2.3 km away, Kastro Cretan Cuisine 2.8 km, Roumeli Tavern 2.9 km, Kampos Taverna 3.3 km, Taverna Veronica 3.8 km and Dalabelos Restaurant 5.3 km.

Beaches in and around Skepasti

Skepasti has its own string of pebbly, unorganized beaches, and 4 more lie within 7 km along the same stretch of north coast. Koukistres is the one local people head for. The shore either side changes character quickly, from the sheltered harbour sand at Panormo in the west to the west-facing coves of Bali in the east.

• Panormo beaches lie 2.6 km west, where the coast forms a natural harbour. Panormo has 2 main beaches and several smaller ones, and the harbour beach, Limanaki, is sandy with clear water.
• Agios Nikolaos beach at Bali sits 4.7 km east, a secluded, almost semicircular cove named after the Byzantine two-nave church of Saint Nicholas that stands in the green creek above it. Limestone rocks around the cove form small caves, the seabed is rocky, and the north wind often brings litter in.
• Bali beaches follow 6.2 km east, 4 sandy coves in one wide bay: Livadi, Varkotopos, Limani and Karavostasis. The bay faces west, so the water stays calm and suits families.
• Geropotamos beach is 6.5 km west at the mouth of the Geropotamos river, below the bridge that carries the Heraklion to Rethymno highway. The sand is quiet and uncrowded and the water is clear, but it runs cold and deep.