Bali Beaches, Crete: A Guide to All Four Coves

The beach of Agios Nikolaos, situated slightly west of Bali in the province of Mylopotamos, is nestled in a secluded area. The beach’s name is derived from the Byzantine two-nave church of Saint Nicholas, which is positioned within a lush green creek leading to a stunning cove. Despite the ravine drying out towards the end of spring, the presence of numerous plane trees indicates the existence of water.

The cove is encased by striking limestone rocks that create small caves, adding to the charm of Agios Nikolaos. The beach, however, has a rocky seabed and is almost semicircular in shape. Unfortunately, it is often littered with trash brought in by the north winds.

Access to Agios Nikolaos beach is via two poorly maintained dirt roads that start near the motorway, beyond Bali. One of these routes, which first ascends to the antennas at Bombadopirgos peak before descending to the beach, is closed off. The other route approaches the beach from the east, but due to its poor condition, a walk of roughly 10 minutes is required.

Charakas is a region situated approximately 36km to the east of Rethymno and 44km to the west of Heraklion, near Bali. Just half a kilometer east of the Panagia Charakiani Church, a small peninsula forms where the petite beaches of Glaros and Katevati can be found. The major highway that links Heraklion and Rethymno is conveniently close by.

Katevati Beach

Located on the western edge of this peninsula is the small but charming Katevati beach, known for its large pebbles. It boasts spectacular views of the rugged Talean Mountains to the south. Its rocky underbelly makes it an ideal spot for fishing and snorkeling. However, it is unregulated, so visitors are advised to come equipped with necessities such as an umbrella, food, and water. Furthermore, it is shielded from the prevalent northern winds due to its eastern positioning. To the north of the beach, on a hill, there are ruins from an ancient settlement.

Glaros Beach

A short distance to the north of the first beach, accessible via a trail starting north of the highway, are the three beautiful beaches of Glaros (also referred to as Glaria or Peristeri) which face west. The beach gets its name from the small, greenish islet of Glaros that’s separated from the shore by a very narrow canal (less than 2m in width). While the shore is sandy, the seabed is rocky, making it an ideal spot for solitude seekers and snorkeling enthusiasts. The northernmost beach, which can be reached by crossing a hill with a Minoan settlement, is considered the most beautiful.

Charakiani Beach

Situated below the Panagia Charakiani Church is a beach with large, round pebbles that attract snorkelers and spearfishermen. This beach can be easily accessed by following a trail that starts from the church. It is easily identifiable by a small islet located directly opposite the beach.

Between the coast of Panagia Charakiani and Kefali hill, where archaeological remnants have been found, lies the region of Propatoumenos, just a short distance west of Holy 317 Fathers Church. Propatoumenos translates to “the area that can be walked”. This is because there used to be a walking trail to the ancient town of Astali, near Bali. Given that the surrounding Talean mountains are incredibly steep and difficult to traverse, this area was perfect for walking. This broader area is rich in unexcavated Minoan settlements, most of which have been left to the mercy of roaming goats. Within this region, we encounter three remote pebbly beaches with pristine waters, situated just a stone’s throw away from the highway. The seabed, teeming with rocks, conglomerate formations and natural arches, is an ideal spot for snorkelling. Across the beaches, the small islet of Prassonissi, home to seagulls, can be accessed by swimming.

Kefala Beach

Tucked away to the east of Panagia Charakiani, near Bali, is Kefala Beach. This hidden gem, with its crystal clear waters all year round, remains fairly unknown. Although generally inaccessible, the beach unveils a stunning coastline adorned with vibrant hues of red soil and green vegetation from shrubs and wild carob trees during calm weather. Kefala has a charming pebble beach with a rich seabed. Further east, the beaches of Kalo Horafi and Vrahi can be found. Kefala gets its name from the low peak, about 40 meters high, situated just above the sea that once housed an unknown Minoan settlement. The entire area above the beach is scattered with remnants of ancient walls and structures.

Kalo Horafi, situated about 37km east of Rethymno and 43km west of Heraklion, is the former site of the 317 Agii Pateres Pelekida (317 Holy Fathers) monastery. While the original monastery cells no longer exist, a more recent chapel has been erected in their place. The area, known as Kalo Horafi, is marked by the rugged beauty of the Cretan landscape, complete with the towering Talean mountains and verdant ravines.

A brief unpaved path (200m), starting from the point on the main road where the Chnaris tavern stands, leads to a charming small beach facing the west. The beach, adorned with pebbles, is rarely crowded. Aside from the tavern and a few villas, the area is largely undeveloped. The beach is also recognized as Vossako, as it marks the beginning of the Vossako ravine, which leads to the Vosako monastery after a walk of approximately 1-1.5 hours. The monastery, which is dedicated to Timios Stavros (Holy Cross), was in ruins until recent restoration works unveiled a hidden treasure of the Cretan religious heritage that you should definitely visit (via Doxaro village).

Additionally, there is a second, smaller pebbly beach with a rocky seabed located just behind the northern end of the main beach, which is easily reachable on foot. This beach, named Vrahi beach, is perfect for snorkelling (but only on calm days).