Zoniana Gorge

The Platania Gorge, positioned above the Platania village, links the southeast slopes of the Psiloritis range to the Amari valley, approximately 38km southeast of Rethymno. The river flowing through it collects water from the west of the Migia (1584m) and Spathi (1779m) peaks and channels it to the River Platys, which terminates in Agia Galini. A challenging yet secure trail winds its way up to the starting point at Kokkinoharako, skirting its steep slopes. The trail provides hikers with breathtaking views of the towering cliffs, vertical limestone rocks displaying yellow-red hues of erosion, rock shelters, and numerous caves.

At roughly 800m altitude, a small plateau hosts the cave-like church of Saint Anthony (Agios Antonios), constructed near a spring. The trail from Agios Antonios continues its ascent northwest, meeting a dirt road originating from the Vistagi village. On the opposite side of the gorge, in the east, lies the Panas cave, named after the ancient god Pan, god of the wild, shepherds, and flocks, who, as per local folklore, was born here. The cave houses petroglyphs from the Minoan era, indicating continuous worship at the site. The same dirt road from Vistagi provides access to the nearby church of Saint Mammes (Agios Mamas), the patron saint of shepherds in Christianity.

The Platania Gorge’s interior is stunning, though few get to witness it due to its steep waterfalls, which require technical canyoning equipment to navigate. The tallest waterfall stands at approximately 40m. The first known crossing of the gorge was in 2008 by the canyoning group of Giannis Bromirakis and Christoforos Cheiladakis. The cliffs provide a nesting habitat for various bird species, including vultures, hawks, wild pigeons, and crows.

Margarites is a renowned village in the Milopotamos province, celebrated for its stunning architecture and traditional pottery. The broader region, encompassing the villages of Margarites, Orthe and Eleftherna, is characterized by a sequence of small, parallel gorges. Tiny watercourses like Margaritianos meander northwards, contributing to the Geropotamos River. These gorges are carved into the white-yellow marly limestone from the Upper Miocene era (8-10 million years ago), a result of the area’s uplift and water erosion.

The gorges’ most striking features are their abundant flora and extraordinary environment. Small groups of horizontally branched cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var horizontal) blend with low shrubs, wildflowers, and aromatic plants. The local authorities have fashioned small trails that reveal the area’s beauty to visitors.

Just a stone’s throw away from Heraklion city, near the Agios Panteleimonas Monastery in Fodele, you’ll find the Santorinios canyon. This canyon carries water from the Marathos village and the western slopes of Platani to the Fodelianos river. Although the canyon is relatively short, it remains unexplored due to the challenging access caused by thick vegetation and numerous ponds. Trekking through the riverbed, despite getting wet, simplifies the journey but calls for a change of footwear. The canyon’s name originates from the soil’s resemblance to that of Santorini Island, which was previously used in Crete’s construction.

Upon entering the gorge, you’ll encounter the ruins of a two-room watermill, its walls still standing tall, supported by an ivy branch woven into them. After some time, you’ll reach the first pond, Azilakokolymbos, which appears to be the path’s endpoint. However, if you manage to bypass the lake by either swimming or rock climbing, there’s more to discover. After overcoming this hurdle, the journey continues smoothly until you reach a majestic waterfall that forms a stunning pond at its base.

The adventure intensifies from this point. To proceed, you’ll need to scale the right side of the waterfall, approximately 15 meters, to reach the hilltop. To access the waterfall’s edge from here, a rope is necessary due to the steep and slippery terrain. As you continue up the canyon, you’ll be greeted by two awe-inspiring twin waterfalls.

The Agios Nikolaos, Gafaris or Rouvas gorge is nestled between the Ambelakia and Samari peaks. This gorge, the most significant in Psiloritis and central Crete, is named after the St Nicholas monastery located near its exit at Zaros. This area is an ecosystem teeming with diverse flora and fauna, smaller canyons, and striking geological formations and cliffs. It spans 4 km, with 2.7 km developed by the Forest Service for activities like hiking, mountaineering, rock climbing, and wildlife observation. However, a fire in 1994 significantly damaged the beautiful Rouvas forest near the gorge’s south entrance.

The Rouvas forest, located in the Saint Nicholas gorge, is a nationally significant ecosystem of holly trees. It covers the inner valley of Psiloritis, surrounded by the peaks of Ambelakia, Samari, Chalazokefala, Skinakas, Koudouni, and Giristi. The area’s trees are ancient, with some trunks exceeding 1 meter in diameter and reaching heights of 15 meters. They grow densely, forming a unique forest society, supplemented by various shrub species.

The forest houses other typical Cretan flora, such as aria, zelkova, cypress, pine, plane, and pear trees, covering approximately 30,000 acres. The uniqueness of the Rouvas forest lies in the holly trees’ unusual size and characteristics compared to their typical Greek counterparts. This is likely due to the absence of external factors that allowed these shrubby oaks to evolve into their current form. Around the forest, one can spot scattered “mitata” (shepherd houses), most of which are now abandoned.

Recommended hiking routes include Zaros Lake to Saint John (a 2.5-hour return trip) and Psakofarago to Agios Ioannis to Lake Zaros (a 5-hour trip). The first route starts from Zaros Lake, leading to the St Nicholas monastery before entering the Rouvas gorge. The trail then ascends through the old burned forest, offering stunning views of the Zaros and Messara planes, before entering a narrow gorge filled with dense vegetation. The path follows the river bed, abundant with water in spring, leading to the heart of the forest, the Agios Ioannis area.

The second route begins north of Agios Ioannis at the Psakofarago gorge, the upper extension of the Rouvas gorge. The trail starts from the Holy Cross church and ends at Lake Zaros, passing through Agios Ioannis and the Rouvas gorge. This route requires a transfer to the Holy Cross church and a pick-up from Lake Zaros. Both routes offer the chance to experience the unique beauty of the Rouvas forest and its surroundings.