Attali Monastery at Bali
Attali Monastery, also known as Bali Monastery, is situated on the hill of Agia Ypakoi, to the west of Bali, looking out over the sea, with the main road between Rethymnon and Heraklion close by. Before the highway was built in 1970, the area was quite isolated, allowing monasticism and asceticism to thrive.
The site covers more than the monastery itself. A summit above it carries the remains of a chapel and a Minoan peak sanctuary, and a second church belonging to the monastery stands just off the highway.
Inside the monastery complex
This male monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and features a two-level complex. Near the grand entrance, you’ll find the stables, and as you explore further, you’ll come across the old mill, a pottery workshop, a bakery, the monks’ cells, and the refectory adorned with frescoes.
The church that stands outside the walls
Unlike most Cretan monasteries, the church is situated on the northeast side of the complex and outside it. To protect the monks from frequent pirate attacks, a heavy door was installed to isolate the stairs leading to the temple, creating a fortress-like structure. However, the temple remains outside of this protective barrier.
Bali bay and the Cretan revolts
The Bali area has been significant in local history due to its bay being a crucial point for supplying rebels with ammunition and communication with liberated Greece. The Turks attempted to occupy the area multiple times, causing severe damage to the monastery. Interestingly, there is another monastery named Bali in Sifnos, where it is believed that the monks of Attali transferred the sacred icon of Our Lady to protect it from Turkish hands.
The Sacred Peak of Apakoi
Although one of the lowest peaks in the Talean Mountains of Rethymno, the summit of Apakoui holds great archaeological significance. It is strategically located above Bali, offering unobstructed views of the sea, Pyrovolopetra (the port of ancient Astali), and the plains of North Milopotamos. The name Apakoui is derived from the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos, who is said to listen to prayers.
On the summit of Apakoui, you can find scattered broken pottery and the remnants of old walls on a small artificial plateau, which is all that remains of the chapel of Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos. The church, built during early Christian times, was later destroyed, but its name lives on. A rough wooden cross stands nearby, signifying the area’s sacredness. The chapel was constructed on the site of a former Minoan Peak sanctuary, believed to have been the sanctuary of Astali. On the hill’s north side, a portion of the trail connecting Eleftherna to ancient Astali remains. The east side of Apakoui features a stone fountain that supplies water to Atali Monastery. However, the ascent to the summit is steep, dangerous, and the old path is damaged.
The church of Panagia Charakiani
The monastery of St. John is home to the church of Panagia Charakiani, located just off the highway. According to tradition, a shepherd discovered the miraculous icon of Panagia in a cavernous rock (charaki). This icon is kept in the monastery and moved to Charakiani during August. Locals used to stay in reed huts for the first 15 days of August, leading up to the celebration of Panagia on August 15, though this tradition has declined in recent years. To the west of the church, you can find the blazon of the Kallergis family, the most influential Cretan family during the Venetian period.
Things to do near Attali Monastery
Five beaches, villages and monasteries lie within 8 km of the hill, listed below with the nearest first.
- Swim in the coves below. The Bali beaches are 1.6 km from the monastery and cover four separate coves, the nearest of them Agios Nikolaos at 1.5 km.
- Walk around Bali village. The village sits 1.6 km east of the hill, on the bay below.
- Carry on to the next beaches. Glaros lies 5.1 km away, Skepasti 5.6 km and Kalo Horafi 7 km.
- Visit Vossako Monastery. That monastery stands 6.6 km from Attali, with the village of Apladiana at 6.8 km.
- Spend a half day at Panormo. The village is 7.6 km away and its beaches 7.8 km.
Getting to Attali Monastery
Leave the Rethymnon to Heraklion highway at Bali and climb the hill of Agia Ypakoi west of the village. The road built in 1970 runs past the site, which is why the monastery is easy to reach today and was isolated before. The church of Panagia Charakiani sits just off that highway, and Bali village lies 1.6 km from the monastery.
Three more monasteries and an archaeological site lie further inland. The Christ Savior and Saint Gedeon Monastery stands near the village of Margarites, with Diskouri Monastery, Halepa Monastery and the ruins of Ancient Eleftherna in the same hinterland.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Attali Monastery?
Attali Monastery stands on the hill of Agia Ypakoi, west of Bali, on the north coast of the Rethymno region. The main road connecting Rethymnon and Heraklion passes below it, and Bali village lies 1.6 km away.
Who is Attali Monastery dedicated to?
Attali Monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and is a male monastery. Its complex runs over two levels and holds stables, an old mill, a pottery workshop, a bakery, the monks’ cells and a refectory with frescoes.
Why is the church outside the monastery walls?
The church sits on the northeast side of the complex, outside it, which is unusual for a Cretan monastery. A heavy door was installed to seal off the stairs leading to the temple during the pirate attacks, so the fortified part protected the monks while the temple stayed beyond the barrier.
Can you climb the peak of Apakoi?
The ascent to the summit of Apakoui is steep and dangerous, and the old path is damaged. The top carries broken pottery and wall remnants from the chapel of Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos, built in early Christian times on the site of a Minoan peak sanctuary.
What happens at Panagia Charakiani in August?
The icon of Panagia is moved from the monastery to Charakiani during August, for the celebration on August 15. Locals once stayed in reed huts for the first 15 days of the month in the run-up to it, a custom that has declined in recent years.
What is the Kallergis blazon at Bali?
The blazon west of the church of Panagia Charakiani belongs to the Kallergis family, the most influential Cretan family of the Venetian period.
Location
Attali Monastery at Bali is located at Attali Monastery at Bali, in the Rethymno region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
