The Ultimate Travel Guide to Astirakion

The Zoniana canyon is situated to the south of Zoniana village within the Psiloritis Range. It begins at a height of 950m, gathering water from several streams that flow from the Zoniana mountains, and concludes at the village at a height of 650m. The “serpentine” river Oaxis, which carries water until spring and ultimately drains into the Geropotamos river, flows through this gorge.

This gorge is not only easily accessible but also safe for hiking due to its gentle slope. The rock formations in many areas are truly remarkable, made up of numerous layers, and there are stunning geological structures and trees clinging to the steep slopes and narrow points. As it nears the village, the canyon broadens and morphs into a slender valley.

The Platania Gorge, positioned above the Platania village, links the southeast slopes of the Psiloritis range to the Amari valley, approximately 38km southeast of Rethymno. The river flowing through it collects water from the west of the Migia (1584m) and Spathi (1779m) peaks and channels it to the River Platys, which terminates in Agia Galini. A challenging yet secure trail winds its way up to the starting point at Kokkinoharako, skirting its steep slopes. The trail provides hikers with breathtaking views of the towering cliffs, vertical limestone rocks displaying yellow-red hues of erosion, rock shelters, and numerous caves.

At roughly 800m altitude, a small plateau hosts the cave-like church of Saint Anthony (Agios Antonios), constructed near a spring. The trail from Agios Antonios continues its ascent northwest, meeting a dirt road originating from the Vistagi village. On the opposite side of the gorge, in the east, lies the Panas cave, named after the ancient god Pan, god of the wild, shepherds, and flocks, who, as per local folklore, was born here. The cave houses petroglyphs from the Minoan era, indicating continuous worship at the site. The same dirt road from Vistagi provides access to the nearby church of Saint Mammes (Agios Mamas), the patron saint of shepherds in Christianity.

The Platania Gorge’s interior is stunning, though few get to witness it due to its steep waterfalls, which require technical canyoning equipment to navigate. The tallest waterfall stands at approximately 40m. The first known crossing of the gorge was in 2008 by the canyoning group of Giannis Bromirakis and Christoforos Cheiladakis. The cliffs provide a nesting habitat for various bird species, including vultures, hawks, wild pigeons, and crows.

The Agios Nikolaos, Gafaris or Rouvas gorge is nestled between the Ambelakia and Samari peaks. This gorge, the most significant in Psiloritis and central Crete, is named after the St Nicholas monastery located near its exit at Zaros. This area is an ecosystem teeming with diverse flora and fauna, smaller canyons, and striking geological formations and cliffs. It spans 4 km, with 2.7 km developed by the Forest Service for activities like hiking, mountaineering, rock climbing, and wildlife observation. However, a fire in 1994 significantly damaged the beautiful Rouvas forest near the gorge’s south entrance.

The Rouvas forest, located in the Saint Nicholas gorge, is a nationally significant ecosystem of holly trees. It covers the inner valley of Psiloritis, surrounded by the peaks of Ambelakia, Samari, Chalazokefala, Skinakas, Koudouni, and Giristi. The area’s trees are ancient, with some trunks exceeding 1 meter in diameter and reaching heights of 15 meters. They grow densely, forming a unique forest society, supplemented by various shrub species.

The forest houses other typical Cretan flora, such as aria, zelkova, cypress, pine, plane, and pear trees, covering approximately 30,000 acres. The uniqueness of the Rouvas forest lies in the holly trees’ unusual size and characteristics compared to their typical Greek counterparts. This is likely due to the absence of external factors that allowed these shrubby oaks to evolve into their current form. Around the forest, one can spot scattered “mitata” (shepherd houses), most of which are now abandoned.

Recommended hiking routes include Zaros Lake to Saint John (a 2.5-hour return trip) and Psakofarago to Agios Ioannis to Lake Zaros (a 5-hour trip). The first route starts from Zaros Lake, leading to the St Nicholas monastery before entering the Rouvas gorge. The trail then ascends through the old burned forest, offering stunning views of the Zaros and Messara planes, before entering a narrow gorge filled with dense vegetation. The path follows the river bed, abundant with water in spring, leading to the heart of the forest, the Agios Ioannis area.

The second route begins north of Agios Ioannis at the Psakofarago gorge, the upper extension of the Rouvas gorge. The trail starts from the Holy Cross church and ends at Lake Zaros, passing through Agios Ioannis and the Rouvas gorge. This route requires a transfer to the Holy Cross church and a pick-up from Lake Zaros. Both routes offer the chance to experience the unique beauty of the Rouvas forest and its surroundings.

In the quiet, almost abandoned village of Chordaki, located in the Amari district, we discovered the hidden gem of Kynigospilios Canyon. Situated south of the village, this small but stunning canyon remains a secret, its location hidden from view, which contributes to its relative obscurity. The Kynigospilios Canyon boasts a significant water flow from the slopes of Mount Kedros, which lasts from winter through to late spring.

However, traversing the canyon requires the use of ropes and canyoning equipment due to the presence of eight stunning waterfalls along its path, with the last one being particularly breathtaking. Unfortunately, the canyon’s safety measures, installed by canyoners around 2011, are not ideally positioned, making them inaccessible during periods of high water flow. The canyon was christened ‘Koutsouna’ (meaning ‘small’) by the first group to cross it, as they couldn’t find an existing name for it.

At the canyon’s entrance, you’ll find two adjacent watermills, and the surrounding area is lush with greenery, including platans and oaks that provide ample shade. Beneath most of the waterfalls, you’ll find ponds perfect for swimming in the canyon’s crystal-clear river waters. The Kynigospilios Canyon eventually merges into the Platys River bed at its termination point.