Vafes is a village in the Chania region of western Crete, 7.8 km from Gavalochori and south-east of Chania city. The villages, beaches and gorges around it belong to the Apokoronas country between Souda Bay and the White Mountains. An Olive Oil Museum stands in the village itself, and the nearest coast is the bay at Georgioupolis, 7.9 km away.
Chania (CHQ) is the nearest airport to Vafes. The village is a base rather than a resort, with a kafeneio of its own, 5 beaches inside about 10 km and 2 of the harder walking gorges of western Crete beyond them.
Six outings start at or near Vafes, listed here from nearest to furthest.
Vafes sits in the inland half of Apokoronas, the stretch of country between the south shore of Souda Bay and the northern slopes of the White Mountains. Olive groves and open farmland run through the district, and the Olive Oil Museum in the village records the crop that shaped it. Gavalochori, 7.8 km away, has an olive oil factory of its own alongside its Roman tombs and Venetian arches.
Water is the other thing that defines this district. The Diktamos gorge collects the runoff from the northern slopes of the Mavri peak and feeds the Kiliaris river, which empties onto Kalives beach, while the Xidas and Mesopotamos rivers reach the sea at the eastern edge of Kalives and cool the water there. Georgioupolis stands in a valley crossed by rivers and springs at the mouth of the Almiros.
The neighbouring settlements each pull a different way. Kefalas, 8.5 km away, is known for its views, churches and tavernas, while Almyrida and Kalives sit on the Souda Bay shore and Georgioupolis faces the open north coast.
Vafes has no beach of its own, because the village stands inland; 5 beaches lie within about 10 km, split between the sheltered south shore of Souda Bay and the open bay at Georgioupolis.
Eating in Vafes begins in the village, where a kafeneio and mezedopolio sits 100 m from the centre, and spreads into the neighbouring villages within about 4 km.
Vafes is reached from the Apokoronas roads that run inland from the north coast, with Georgioupolis 7.9 km away on one side and Kalives and Almyrida on the Souda Bay shore on the other. Gavalochori at 7.8 km and Kefalas at 8.5 km are the nearest villages inland.
Chania (CHQ) is the nearest airport, and the village lies south-east of Chania city and west of Rethymno. Everything described here needs a car.
Vafes is a village in the Chania region of western Crete, 7.8 km from Gavalochori and south-east of Chania city. It stands inland in the Apokoronas country, between Souda Bay and the White Mountains.
No, Vafes is inland, and the nearest beach is Kalivaki at Georgioupolis, 7.9 km away. Kera, Almyrida and Kalives on the south shore of Souda Bay follow within about 10 km.
The Olive Oil Museum stands in Vafes itself. Everything else on this page is a short drive out, starting with the Venetian village of Gavalochori 7.8 km away and its complex of 24 Venetian wells.
The 2 gorges nearest Vafes are the Diktamos and the Kapni, and both are demanding walks. The Diktamos takes about 3 hours, the Kapni about 4.
Chania (CHQ) is the nearest airport to Vafes. The village lies south-east of Chania city, in the same region.
This trip handles the logistics of walking Samaria Gorge from a Georgioupolis base: coach up to the Omalos plateau in the morning, the 17-kilometre walk down to the Libyan Sea, then the ferry to Chora Sfakion where the coach waits. Samaria became a national park in 1962 and remains the last natural refuge of the kri-kri, the Cretan wild goat. BALLOS TRAVEL AGENCY runs the transfer from €30, and it holds a 4.82 rating across 315 reviews.
The day is a one-way walk with transport arranged at both ends, because the gorge exits nowhere near where it starts. Four stages make it up.
First is the early coach along the north coast and up through the White Mountains to the Omalos plateau, with a break before the gorge entrance. Second is the descent, starting at 1,200 metres at Xyloskalo and dropping through the Iron Gates, where the walls rise 350 metres and narrow to a few metres across. Springs along the route let you refill your bottle. Third is Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea at the end of the 17 kilometres, where you can swim or sit at a taverna. Fourth is the ferry to Chora Sfakion and the coach back.
A guide walks with the back of the group rather than the front, which is the right way round on a route where nobody gets lost but people do get tired.
The route crosses the island from the north coast to the south through the White Mountains.
The €30 buys the transport, and every fee on the day is paid separately in cash.
Included:
Not included:
Budget €24 per adult in cash on top of the ticket.
We recommend this booking for what it removes rather than what it adds. Samaria cannot be walked as a round trip, you finish 17 kilometres away on the opposite coast, with a ferry and a mountain road between you and your car. Solving that yourself means a pre-dawn start, a ferry timetable and a long drive after six hours of walking. This trip is a coach seat at both ends, and at €30 that is the whole point.
The reviews say the same thing in different words: excellently organised, everything worked smoothly, a challenging day made to feel stress-free. Guides are named by walkers from the Czech Republic, Lithuania, Germany and Poland, Mara, Alexandra, Aleksandra all appear, and what people praise is specific. One German reviewer described Alexandra noticing when somebody needed motivation and being fully there for them without losing sight of the group or the timetable, with a plan B ready. Another noted she was always waiting at the agreed meeting points. That is exactly what a guide on this route should do.
One practical tip came straight from a reviewer and is worth passing on: there is a taverna stop before the gorge entrance, and you should use the toilets there, because inside the gorge there are none.
Three things we would be blunt about.
This is a demanding hike and the operator says so plainly. Seventeen kilometres of descent on rock takes 4 to 5 hours of actual walking and 5 to 6 hours with stops. Reviewers who loved it still call it really challenging and say it should not be underestimated. It is not recommended for anyone with limited mobility.
Footwear decides your day. Two separate reviewers said they would do it again with different shoes. Trainers are not enough for 17 kilometres of loose rock.
Heat is the other variable. One reviewer would repeat the walk but only when it is not so hot, and that is sound, the gorge is shaded in parts and an oven in others.
Carry the cash, wear real boots, and start earlier in the season if you can choose.
Pick-up covers accommodation in the Dramia, Kavros and Georgioupolis area, contact the supplier if you are staying elsewhere. Departure is early in the morning and the day runs until evening.
Bring comfortable hiking shoes, sunglasses, a sun hat, swimwear, sunscreen and cash. The walk takes about 4 to 5 hours with necessary stops, and the operator states it is not recommended for people with limited mobility.
The trail runs 17 kilometres, taking about 4 to 5 hours of walking and 5 to 6 hours including stops.
You pay €10 for gorge entry and €14 for the ferry in cash, with reduced rates for children.
Samaria is a demanding hike. The operator states it requires hiking shoes and good physical stamina, and reviewers who rated it five stars still describe it as really challenging.
The gorge exits at Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea, which has no road, so a ferry carries walkers to Chora Sfakion where the coach waits.
The Iron Gates are the narrowest point of the gorge, where the walls rise 350 metres and close to a few metres apart.
Pick-up covers Dramia, Kavros and Georgioupolis; anywhere else needs arranging with the local supplier.
Check dates and prices for the Samaria Gorge transfer from Georgioupolis.
Embark on a guided hike in the Samariá Gorge on a day trip from Rethymno. Get your daily dose of exercise, enjoy the panoramic views, and take a swim.
Following an early morning pickup from the nearest point to your accommodation in Rethymno, travel through the mountains, passing the plateau of Omalos.
Arrive at some wooden stairs at the start of Samariá Gorge. You can opt to start the walk straight away or get some breakfast at the taverna before you begin. Experience the magnificent landscapes on a 16-kilometer walk.
Discover the longest gorge in Europe, an area of stunning natural beauty. See its many flowers and herbs and the crystal-clear spring waters that flow from the mountains. Once you have finished the hike, there will be ample time for a swim and lunch at a tavern in Agia Roumeli.
This trip books you an hour on a pedalo at Lake Kournas and drives you there and back. Lake Kournas is the only freshwater lake in Crete, held in a bowl of rocky hills between Georgioupolis and the mountains, and the water shifts through blue and green depending on the light and the season. Allcretetours runs it over 4 hours from €120, and it holds a 3.67 rating across 24 reviews, the lowest score of anything we list.
The package is transport plus a pre-booked pedalo, and the rest of the time is yours. Three parts make it up.
First is the hotel pick-up and the drive to the lake. Second is the pedalo, booked and paid for in advance, for 60 minutes on the water, long enough to cross to the far shore where the springs feed the lake and the water runs cold. Third is roughly four hours of free time at the lakeside, which covers walking the shore, swimming, and eating at one of the tavernas above the water.
Terrapins live in the lake and are the thing children look for, though how many surface depends on how many boats are out.
The day is spent at one lake inland from the north coast.
The price covers the transfer and one hour on the water.
Included:
Nothing else is included, so food, drinks and any extra pedalo time are yours to pay for.
We recommend Lake Kournas itself without reservation and this particular package with real caution, and the two need separating.
The lake is worth the trip. It is the only freshwater swim in Crete, the setting is genuinely unusual, rock walls, green vegetation, no sea in sight, and reviewers who got there early describe it as magical. A Belgian guest arriving at 08:45 for the 09:00 pedalo opening found almost nobody there. A Swiss reviewer said the same about an early arrival. That early-morning window is the whole experience at its best.
When the transfer works, reviewers praise it warmly: helpful communication, punctual drivers, spot-on transport all appear in the five-star reviews.
Now the reasons this scores 3.67, which are worth reading before you book.
Value for money scores 3.1 out of 5 and transport 3.2, and both are low enough to take seriously. At €120 you are getting a transfer and 60 minutes of pedalo. A British reviewer put it plainly: a bit pricey for what you get, though still a lovely day. A Danish reviewer regretted not buying a second hour.
The transfer is the real risk. One American guest rating the trip two stars reported being forgotten at pick-up and collected an hour and a half late, with problems again at the end of the day. That is a single account, but transport scoring 3.2 across 24 reviews suggests it is not isolated.
Crowding changes the lake. The same two-star reviewer noted there were no terrapins because there were so many boats, and a British guest arriving at 13:00 on a Sunday found the beaches packed. This is a small lake and it fills.
Get there at opening, budget for a second hour, and confirm your pick-up the night before.
Your ticket with the pick-up time and point becomes available one day before the tour at allcretevoucher.gr, check it rather than waiting to be called.
Bring sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen. The lakeside tavernas cover food and drink, and swimming in the lake is free.
The rental covers 60 minutes on the water, with about 4 hours of free time at the lake in total.
Swimming is allowed and free. Kournas is the only freshwater lake in Crete and the water is noticeably colder near the springs on the far shore.
Value for money is the weakest score at 3.1 out of 5. €120 covers the transfer and one hour of pedalo, and reviewers describe it as pricey for what is included.
Arrive for the 09:00 pedalo opening. Reviewers who came early found the lake nearly empty; those arriving at midday found it packed.
Terrapins live in the lake but surface less when it is busy. One reviewer saw none at all because of the number of boats out.
Your voucher with the pick-up time and point appears one day before the tour at allcretevoucher.gr.
Check dates and prices for the Lake Kournas pedal boat rental with transfer.
Depart from Heraklion and travel west by bus to the captivating city of Chania. Learn about its rich Minoan history and explore landmarks from various civilizations, including the Byzantine, Ottoman, and Venetian periods.
Take in the picturesque view of the lighthouse at the port, and meander through the charming narrow streets of the old town. Savor some leisure time for lunch at the delightful harbor. Browse for gifts and souvenirs at the renowned market.
Next, journey to Lake Kournas and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the lush green hills. Watch for rare birds and aquatic life, such as eels and turtles. Enjoy a refreshing swim or take a stroll through the protected wetlands.
Return towards Heraklion, stopping in the city of Rethymno along the route. Wander through the alleys of the old town, admire the domes and minarets of the Ottoman-era mosques, and marvel at the 16th-century Venetian fortress.
Timings:
7:15 AM to 9:15 AM: Pick-up service from Malia to Agia Pelagia.
The pick-up time depends on your hotel’s location.
10:00 AM: Stop in Skaleta for breakfast and restroom break.
10:15 AM: Leave Skaleta.
11:30 AM: Arrive in Chania.
1:30 PM: Depart from Chania.
2:15 PM: Arrive Lake Kournas for swimming and lunch.
3:45 PM: Leave Lake Kournas.
4:15 PM: Arrive in Rethymno.
5:30 PM: Depart from Rethymno.
7:00 PM: Arrive in Heraklion.
Time Spent at Each Stop:
Chania: 2 hours.
Lake Kournas: 1 h and 30 min.
Rethymno: 1 h and 15 min.
Pick-up locations and times are as follows:
Malia: 7:15 AM
Stalida and Stalis: 7:25 AM
Hersonissos 7:35 AM
Anissaras: 7:45 AM
Analipsi: 7:55 AM
Kato Gouves: 8:05 AM
Kokkini Chani and Gournes: 8:15 AM
Karteros: 08:20 AM
Heraklion center: 08:30 AM
Ammoudara Beach Road: 8:45 AM
Agia Pelagia: 9:05 – 9:15 AM
Chania:
Discover Chania, from ancient Minoan times to Venetian, Ottoman, and Byzantine influences.
Visit the historic harbor and capture the iconic lighthouse.
Explore the market and shop for local souvenirs.
Enjoy a stroll along the waterfront and soak in the vibrant atmosphere.
Lake Kournas:
Escape to the Lake Kournas, the only freshwater lake in Crete.
Enjoy breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and greenery.
Take a boat ride on the crystal-clear waters of the lake.
Swim in the refreshing waters.
Explore the diverse flora and fauna of the wetlands, home to rare bird species.
Rethymno:
Step back in time as you explore the old town of Rethymno.
Admire the elegant Venetian architecture and stroll along the atmospheric alleys.
Visit the Fortezza, a 16th-century Venetian fortress overlooking the town.
Discover the blend of Ottoman and Venetian influences in the mosques, churches, and minarets scattered throughout the town.
Relax at one of the charming cafes or tavernas and savor authentic Cretan cuisine.
This tour offers a perfect blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, providing an unforgettable experience of Crete’s most captivating destinations.
Kalivaki beach is the westernmost beach of Georgioupolis bay, on the north coast of Crete, 38 km east of Chania and 21 km west of Rethymno. Kalivaki sits at the mouth of the Almyros river, where the river meets the sea, so its sandy shore stays sheltered from the wind and its shallow water runs noticeably cool. This sheltered, family-friendly setting makes Kalivaki a good choice for children, especially on days when the wind stirs up the more open beaches nearby.
Kalivaki beach lies at the western edge of Georgioupolis bay, west of the Georgioupolis port and the church of Agios Nikolaos, 38 km east of Chania and 21 km west of Rethymno. Kalivaki sits at the exit of the Almyros river, joined by the smaller Boutakas stream, and both keep a steady flow of fresh water into the sea all year. The beach faces the open north coast, so its surface is calm in the sheltered corner near the river and turns wavy further out when the wind picks up. This position, tucked at the protected western end of the bay, is what sets Kalivaki apart from the longer, more exposed Georgioupolis beach to the east.
The water at Kalivaki is noticeably cooler than the open sea because the Almyros river and freshwater springs push cold water into the shallows. This cool current is strongest at the parts of the beach closest to the river mouth, where the cold river water meets the warmer sea. Many families come to Kalivaki for exactly this refreshing dip, which feels sharper and cooler than a swim on the neighbouring sandy beaches. Swim towards the eastern side of the beach, away from the river outflow, if you prefer warmer water.
Kalivaki is a sandy beach with soft sand and small dunes behind the shore, and its shallow, sheltered water suits families with young children. Kalivaki usually stays less crowded than the other Georgioupolis beaches, though visitor numbers rise on summer weekends. The sheltered cove keeps the water calm on windy days, when the longer beaches to the east grow choppy, so Kalivaki works well as a fallback when the wind is up. Where the Almyros river meets the sea the outflow can create a noticeable current and colder water, so keep children in the calmer, sheltered part of the cove and take extra care on windy days.
Kalivaki gives visitors umbrellas and sunbeds to rent, with beach bars and taverns nearby for food and water a few steps from the sand. Parking sits close to the shore and the beach is free to enter, so a family beach day here needs little planning. Services such as showers, changing rooms and a lifeguard are not a guaranteed feature at Kalivaki, so check what is open on arrival if you rely on them. Most of the beach services run mainly through the summer season, and they thin out in the quieter spring and autumn months.
Kalivaki beach is a recorded nesting point for the loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), which lays its eggs in the sand in the warm months. Keep clear of the soft dry sand and any marked nests, and avoid digging or pushing umbrella poles deep into the sand near the back of the beach. Take your litter home with you, because a single nest can sit just below the surface. These small steps let the turtles and their eggs stay undisturbed while you enjoy the beach.
Reach Kalivaki beach in a few simple ways from Georgioupolis and the main coast road:
Kalivaki sits between Chania and Rethymno, so a beach morning here fits easily with Lake Kournas, the Georgioupolis waterfront, and the quieter coves along the Apokoronas coast. Reaching them all on your own schedule is simplest with your own vehicle, which you can compare on our car rental in Crete page.
Kalivaki beach is the westernmost beach of Georgioupolis bay, on the north coast of Crete, 38 km east of Chania and 21 km west of Rethymno.
Yes, Kalivaki beach suits families, because the water is shallow, the cove is sheltered from the wind, and the beach stays calmer than the neighbouring Georgioupolis beaches. Keep children near the calmer part of the cove and away from the stronger current at the river mouth.
The water at Kalivaki is cold because the Almyros river and freshwater springs feed cool water into the shallows, and the effect is strongest close to the river mouth.
Kalivaki beach has umbrellas and sunbeds to rent, with beach bars and taverns nearby for food and water, and free parking close to the shore. Showers, changing rooms and a lifeguard are not guaranteed, so check what is open on arrival.
Drive or take a local bus to Georgioupolis, then follow the paved road or walk west from the port to the river mouth at the western end of the bay.
The main season runs from June to September, when the weather is warm and the beach services are open, while late spring and early autumn stay quieter for a calmer visit.
Georgioupolis, a small coastal town located 38km east of Chania and 21km west of Rethymnon, is a seaside resort nestled in a verdant valley crisscrossed by rivers and springs. Situated on the western edge of a sprawling 10km beach, the town’s beach spans 2km to the east, beginning at the Almiros river and terminating at Kavros beach, a natural continuation of the former. The beach in Georgioupolis is sandy, dotted with dunes, and has shallow waters.
The beach is well-maintained and child-friendly, with lifeguards on duty. Caution is advised during windy conditions due to sea currents. Amenities such as umbrellas, showers, and food and drink stalls are available for beachgoers. Approximately 700m east of the port, the Perastikos river bifurcates the beach, which then widens as it continues eastward. On the opposite end, west of Georgioupolis’s port and near the Almyros river’s exit, lies the picturesque Kalivaki beach.
Situated approximately 20km east of the city of Chania, Kera beach can be found on the southern coastline of Souda Bay, near the scenic villages of Kalives and Plaka. This beach, adorned with soft sand and the occasional pebble, is nestled amidst a breathtaking landscape of towering cliffs. The sea at Kera is shallow and boasts crystal clear waters. Although it lacks organization, the surrounding area offers numerous choices for lodging and dining. Those preferring less crowded spots will find Kera an ideal choice. The beach offers a striking view of Karga island and features a unique elongated rock in the sea towards its west end. This rock, named Karavos (meaning ship) by the locals, resembles a boat.
Close to the beach is the 19th-century church of Panagia Kera (or Dame Virgin Mary), erected on the location of a former monastery. According to local legend, when pirates once tried to invade the area, the inhabitants sought divine intervention from the church of Panagia Kera. In response to their prayers, the Virgin Mary turned both the pirates and their boat to stone.
Almyrida beach sits about 23 km east of Chania, on the south shore of Souda Bay near Cape Drapanos in the Apokoronas region. Almyrida is really 2 shallow, sandy beaches that stay calm enough for children on windless days, backed by a row of tavernas, sunbeds and a watersports centre. A small rocky peninsula topped with a white chapel separates the two bays, and the uninhabited islet of Karga lies just offshore.
Almyrida beach lies on the south shore of Souda Bay, about 23 km east of Chania and close to Cape Drapanos. The beach belongs to the Apokoronas region of north-west Crete, set among olive groves and open countryside. The village of Plaka sits about 1 km inland to the east, and the resort of Kalyves is about 2 km to the west. The nearest airport is Chania International on the Akrotiri peninsula, about 32 km away.
Almyrida has 2 sandy beaches with shallow, clear water that is safe for children on calm days. The two beaches meet at a small rocky peninsula crowned by a white chapel, where a lifeguard watches the swimming area. The water is blue and usually calm, and the sandy seabed shelves gently on the eastern, main beach. The western side is rockier, with a third, pebble beach just before the village that has no facilities, so water shoes help on that stretch.
Almyrida beach suits families with young children, because the water stays shallow and calm close to the shore. The eastern beach has the softest sand and the gentlest entry into the sea. Parents should keep to the sandy eastern side and away from the rockier west end, where the seabed is stonier underfoot. On-site sunbeds, showers, a lifeguard and tavernas make a full beach day with children straightforward.
Almyrida beach is well organised, with sunbeds and umbrellas to hire and beach bars and tavernas set just behind the sand. The tavernas line the seafront and are known for fresh fish and traditional Cretan food, with cafes, mini-markets and shops a few steps away across the coastal road. The beach has showers and a lifeguard on the main bay, and parking sits close to the sand. Hotels, apartments and villas stand within a short walk, so the beach works for a quick swim or a longer stay.
Almyrida beach is a popular spot for windsurfing, because the bay catches the area’s afternoon winds. A watersports centre on the shore rents equipment and runs lessons for windsurfers and beginners. Calmer water suits a paddle board or a canoe, snorkelling over the rockier patches, or a boat trip along the coast. Boat trips leave from the small fishing harbour and head to the sea caves around Souda Bay and Cape Drapanos.
Karga is a small uninhabited islet that lies directly opposite Almyrida beach. The islet is a habitat for birds and a target for fishing and short boat excursions from the shore. Strong swimmers sometimes swim across to it on calm days. Traces of ancient Phoenician walls and shelters built by German forces in the Second World War still survive on Karga.
The best time to visit Almyrida beach is between June and September, when the sea is warm and the weather is settled. Almyrida stays calmer and less crowded than the larger resorts of Agia Marina and Platanias west of Chania, which is why families and couples favour it. Mornings are the quietest time for the sunbeds and the water in peak season. Late spring and early autumn stay pleasant for swimming and quieter still.
To reach Almyrida beach, drive east from Chania on the national road, turn off toward Kalyves, then follow the paved road on to Almyrida. Regular buses and taxis also connect Almyrida and Plaka with Chania, though they run less often than a car allows. The nearest airport is Chania International on the Akrotiri peninsula, about 32 km away. Parking sits close to the beach and is easiest to find in the morning through the summer.
A day at Almyrida beach is easiest with your own car, because buses between the airport and the coast run only a few times a day. A car lets you arrive early for the shaded sunbeds, carry beach gear and water shoes for the rockier west end, and move on to Kera or Kalives beaches when you want a change. The wider Apokoronas coast, from the sea caves near Cape Drapanos to the villages inland, opens up once you can drive between stops. For the most flexible way to reach Almyrida and the beaches around it, book a car rental in Crete.
Almyrida beach is on the south shore of Souda Bay, about 23 km east of Chania, in the Apokoronas region of Crete. The village of Plaka lies about 1 km east and Kalyves about 2 km west.
Almyrida beach has two sandy beaches with shallow, clear water, plus a rockier pebble beach on the western side. The eastern, main beach has the softest sand and the gentlest entry into the sea.
Yes, Almyrida beach suits families, because the water is shallow and calm near the shore and the main beach has a lifeguard. Keep to the sandy eastern side, where the entry is gentlest, and away from the rockier west end.
Almyrida beach is organised, with sunbeds and umbrellas to hire, showers, a lifeguard, and beach bars and tavernas behind the sand. Cafes, mini-markets and parking sit a few steps away, and hotels and apartments stand within a short walk.
Yes, Almyrida beach is a windsurfing spot with a watersports centre on the shore that rents gear and gives lessons. Calmer days suit paddle boarding, canoeing, snorkelling and boat trips to the Souda Bay sea caves.
The best time to visit Almyrida beach is between June and September, when the sea is warm and the weather is settled. Mornings, late spring and early autumn are the quietest times for the sand and the water.
To get to Almyrida beach, drive east from Chania and turn off the national road toward Kalyves, or take a bus or taxi from Chania. The nearest airport is Chania International, about 32 km away, and parking sits close to the sand.
Aptera is a highly significant archaeological site in West Crete. Established in the 8th century BC, the ancient city of Aptera was strategically located to control Souda Bay and prospered during the Hellenistic period. However, it was abandoned during the Arab years due to pirate attacks. The city relied on the ports of Marathi and Kalives, which made Aptera one of Crete’s most important commercial centers, if not the most important one.
Tradition has it that the city was named after the Sirens who lost their wings in a musical contest against the muses, rendering them wingless (aptera in Greek). However, it seems that the name actually comes from Aptera Artemis (wingless Artemis), who was worshipped in the area, as evidenced by the city’s coins.
Aptera was fortified with a strong wall, of which a large part (4km) still stands today. Within the city, one can find a sanctuary from the 5th-4th century BC, enormous Roman vaulted cisterns, a carved-in-ground theater, a “parliament,” and a nearby necropolis. Various artifacts have been discovered, including vases, coins, figurines, inscriptions, and sculptures.
The city of Aptera was renowned for its skilled archers who served as mercenaries in various areas outside Crete, bringing wealth back to their homeland. The valuable silver they introduced enabled the city to mint its own coins. These intricate coins typically featured the goddess Artemis on one side and the city’s founder King Apteras on the other. Other designs depicted Apollo or Hera and a torch, bee, or bow.
Aptera is situated 13 km from Chania and is most conveniently reached by car, as there are no direct public buses to the site. Alternatively, you could take any bus heading towards Rethymno or Heraklion and get off at the crossroads leading to Aptera. However, keep in mind that this option requires a 45-minute uphill walk to reach the archaeological site.
Located near the quaint village of Fylaki in the Apokoronas region of Chania, you’ll discover the vaulted tomb of Fylaki. Constructed during the post-Minoan times (after 1200 BC), it shares many similarities with the domed grave of Stylos at the Azogyres site.
This well-preserved and clean tomb features a lengthy entrance aisle, and its pyramid-like roof is truly striking. One particularly fascinating element is the massive carved boulder situated at the upper part of the entrance.
Finding the tomb can be somewhat challenging. Just 30 meters past the turnoff to Kastelos village, you’ll spot a small group of cypress trees near the tomb.
South of the archaeological site of Aptera and near the village Stylos, at position Azogires, we come across the domed tomb of Stylos that was discovered in 1961, having already been looted, by archaeologists Nikolaos Platon and Kostas Davaras. This impressive tomb belonged to a local lord and features a circular stone chamber and a long, road corridor (20.80 m long).
The relieving triangle above the entrance housed 12 cups from the Hellenistic period, a detail that verifies that ceremonies were conducted there. Similar Hellenistic pottery was also discovered in the corridor.
Located at Tria Kamarakia, near the Rethymnon-Chania highway, the Holy Cross “St. Raphael” Foundation is a quaint, informal monastery with a primary focus on charity work. Its main temple is a three-aisled basilica dedicated to the Neomartyrs (Raphael, Nicholas, and Irene), the Holy Cross, and Saint Ephrem.
The historical monument of Sarakinas Monastery Complex at Mournies, which is a dependency of the Megisti Lavra Monastery at Athos, features neoclassical buildings encircling a one-aisled temple that was rebuilt in the 19th century. The complex also includes cells and storage rooms for crops.
Dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Athanasius the Athonite, an inscription reveals that the monastery was constructed during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Nikiforos Fokas in the 10th century.
The Chrysopigi Monastery can be found 3km south of Chania city. Its temple features Mount Athos triconch architecture with a dome and is dedicated to the Panagia Zoodochos Pigi (Life Giving Virgin Mary) (celebrated on the Friday after Easter). Thousands of believers visit this monastery to pay their respects to the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary. The monastery complex has an elongated rectangular shape, with the temple at its center. The nuns’ cells and other buildings surround the temple, and their outer sides form a fortification wall. The arched gate of the monastery is located in the northern part of the wall.
Throughout the centuries, the monastery has gone through periods of prosperity and decline. It has suffered numerous attacks and significant damages from Turkish and German conquerors of Crete. Since 1976, the monastery has been operating as a female nunnery. Today, the nuns engage in activities such as painting, preserving old books and icons, bookbinding, and ecclesiastical embroidery. The monastery is well-known for its ecological and environmental initiatives. The nuns organically cultivate around 130 acres of land, growing olive, tangerine, orange, avocado, fig, and apricot trees, as well as vegetable gardens. They primarily sell organic oil to promote organic farming. The monastery’s organic waste is converted into compost for use as fertilizers, and the rest is recycled. Additionally, the nuns offer environmental education programs for schoolchildren from all over Europe!
The Chrysopigi Monastery is also responsible for the restored Agia Kyriaki Monastery in Varypetro, which houses the Orthodoxy and Ecology Center where educational programs are conducted. Furthermore, church and folklore museums operate in Chrysopigi, open daily from 8:00 to 12:00 and from 15:30 to 18:00. The church museum displays old icons, sacred vessels, ecclesiastical gold embroidery from the 18th and 19th centuries, crosses, blessings, books, official documents, and woodworks. Meanwhile, the folklore museum showcases folk embroidery, traditional costumes, examples of secular and ecclesiastical woodwork, photographs, paintings, traditional agricultural tools, and more.
Besides the church of Zoodochos Pigi, the monastery is home to chapels dedicated to St. John the Theologian (celebrated on September 26 and May 8), St. Catherine (November 25), St. Haralambos (February 10), St John Kalivitis (January 15), and St Arsenios from Cappadocia (November 10). Additionally, the Monastery of Agia Kyriaki (July 7) houses the church of the Transfiguration (August 6) and is near the cavernous chapels of St. Anthony (January 17), the Holy Seven Children (August 4), Saint Silouan the Athonite (September 24), and the Martyrs of Crete (June 23).
Tucked away in the picturesque village of Alikampos, Dourakis Winery is conveniently located just a short drive from the renowned wine regions of Rethymno and Chania. Annually welcoming over 20,000 visitors from around the globe, the winery offers tastings and guided tours of the estate. Additionally, guests can book the venue for private meetings, exhibitions, and other special events.
The story of Dourakis Winery began in the early 1980s with founder Andreas Dourakis, who officially opened it to the public in 1988. Initially starting with just a few barrels in an old shed for storing wine, the winery has evolved into a fully operational solar-powered boutique establishment. It now boasts extensive vineyards and a large underground wine cellar. With unwavering dedication and passion, the Dourakis family produces world-class wines that are exported across Europe, China, Canada, and the USA.
Tucked away in the picturesque village of Alikampos, Dourakis Winery is conveniently located just a short drive from the renowned wine regions of Rethymno and Chania. Annually welcoming over 20,000 visitors from around the globe, the winery offers tastings and guided tours of the estate. Additionally, guests can book the venue for private meetings, exhibitions, and other special events.
The story of Dourakis Winery began in the early 1980s with founder Andreas Dourakis, who officially opened it to the public in 1988. Initially starting with just a few barrels in an old shed for storing wine, the winery has evolved into a fully operational solar-powered boutique establishment. It now boasts extensive vineyards and a large underground wine cellar. With unwavering dedication and passion, the Dourakis family produces world-class wines that are exported across Europe, China, Canada, and the USA.
The Diktamos Canyon, nestled within the White Mountains, commences 21km to the east of Chania, near the Katochori village at an elevation of 300m. It concludes 8km further east, at the Faragi village, situated at a height of 40m and in close proximity to the Stylos village in the Apokoronas province. Consequently, it is also referred to as the Katechori Gorge or Stylos Gorge. The canyon’s stream serves as the primary tributary of the Kiliaris River, gathering water from the northern slopes of the Mavri peak and discharging it onto the Kalives beach.
Navigating through the canyon can be challenging, with certain areas requiring extra caution and approximately 3 hours to traverse. The canyon is a stunning, verdant landscape filled with towering trees and steep inclines, home to dittany or diktamos, a herb endemic to Crete. In Stylos, you have the opportunity to explore the ancient church of Apostle John (Agios Ioannis Theologos), refresh yourself at the local springs, and replenish your energy at the village’s taverns.
The Kapni Gorge, one of Eastern Sfakia’s most stunning canyons, remains largely undiscovered. The gorge begins as an open stream south of the Akones peak at Hionistra, located on the road between Askyfou and Asfendou villages. It concludes in the village of Nomikiana in the Sfakia province. In Hionistra, two streams in calcareous soils converge to form the Kapni Gorge after an hour’s walk. The canyon is extensive, requiring around four hours to traverse. It is among Crete’s challenging and perilous trekking gorges, with a rugged riverbed that forms dry waterfalls in certain areas, necessitating climbing.
It is not advisable for those inexperienced in mountaineering. The riverbed features several small caves that were previously used as sheepfolds. In one of these caves, there is drinking water, the only source in the harsh Kapni region. This water source is hard to find unless one is very familiar with the area. Kapni is home to beautiful vegetation, including maples and oak trees, and stunning walls of platy limestone in several places.
The name Kapni, meaning smoke, traces back to a story from the Venetian era. East Sfakia was once densely forested, providing refuge for Cretans fighting the Venetians. To counter this, the Venetians burned these forests, including the one in Kapni, which was so dense that the fire burned for weeks. The narrowness of the gorge created an oven-like effect, trapping the fire and significantly raising the temperature. The intense heat baked the mountain rock, similar to a lime kiln, and smoke lingered for days after the fire ceased. That autumn, a massive flood swept through the bare, fire-scorched hillsides, moving rocks with immense force to the gorge’s exit. This event resulted in a large deposit of sediment, creating the most impressive scree (locally known as sara) in Crete, visible from miles away. This scree starts at the gorge’s exit and extends to the village of Nomikiana.
Situated in the Sfakia province, Imbros Gorge is Crete’s third most frequented gorge, following Samaria Gorge and Agia Irini by Sougia. These are all part of the E4 European hiking path. The gorge’s breathtaking landscape and easy trail make it perfect for family trips. The gorge spans 11 km and the hike takes about 2-3 hours.
The journey begins in the quaint village of Imbros, nestled 700 meters above sea level.
The gorge’s initial section, known as Porofarago or Porolagos, is fairly broad. The trail starts off as a descent with relatively low sidewalls. As you go further, the canyon gradually narrows, the sidewalls rise, and the views become awe-inspiring. The canyon’s sides start to close in and rise, revealing various caves. The vegetation includes ancient cypresses, oaks, and maples emerging from the rocks.
Throughout the gorge, remnants of the old stone-paved path, once the main route from Sfakia to Chania, can be seen. The canyon has witnessed numerous battles between the Ottomans and the Christians during the Turkish Occupation of Crete, notably in 1821 and 1867.
Further along, you’ll pass the spot known as Airplane, where a German plane crashed during World War II (the wreckage is displayed in the war museum at Askyfou). Following this, you’ll come across the gorge’s first narrow passages and then reach the position Gournia (i.e. basins), where several small rock basins fill with water in the winter.
Next, you’ll arrive at the gorge’s most magnificent section, Stenada. Here, the gorge walls close in to 1.6m and reach a height of 300m! The rocks are adorned with stunning formations.
After this narrow stretch, the canyon broadens and you’ll near a rest area at position Mesofarango. Here, you’ll find a Venetian water cistern and the gorge guard’s hut.
A few meters ahead, you’ll cross a landslide and shortly after, the striking narrowing at Gremnaria. Following this, you’ll see another gorge trademark, the stone arch Xepitira. As you continue, you’ll navigate some narrow passages and soon arrive at the gorge’s exit by the village Komitades. Several taverns are located near the exit, providing a perfect spot to rest and grab a bite.
There are multiple bus services from Chania to Imbros during the summer. To catch the bus to Chora Sfakia, Imbros (where many hikers park their cars at the gorge’s entrance), or Chania, you’ll need to either walk 4 kilometers towards Chora Sfakion (be sure to check the schedules) or take a taxi from the gorge’s exit (which can be quite pricey).
The Sfakiano Gorge, also known as Gorge Vartholoma or Gorge Lago, concludes around 2km east of Chora Sfakion within the Sfakia province. It originates from the Trikoukia area of the White Mountains at a height of 1200 meters and culminates at the Fylaki Caves of the South Cretan Sea. The gorge spans 6.5km and it’s a breeze to traverse along its riverbank.
The suggested hiking trail within the gorge initiates from the Niato plateau (close to Askifou Plateau) and heads towards the abandoned village of Kali Lakki. The gorge, one of Crete’s greenest, begins just before reaching Kali Laki and boasts an incredibly diverse plant life. Oaks, cypresses, and pines are the dominant trees within the Sfakiano Gorge.
The gorge’s starting point is home to the Byzantine church of Saint Paul (Agios Pavlos), constructed by the locals in 1407. The gorge meets the main road to Chora Sfakion near the exit, at the Porolago location. It’s certainly worthwhile to continue your adventure towards the sea, as the gorge bed leads to the breathtakingly beautiful Fylaki fjords, some of the most captivating beaches in the Sfakia region.
Featuring pool views, Villa Vardis Heated Pool provides accommodation with a balcony and a coffee machine, around 33 km from Archaeological Museum of Rethymno. It has an infinity pool, a garden, mountain views and free WiFithroughout the property.
The villa with a terrace and sea views features 3 bedrooms, a living room, a flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen with a dishwasher and an oven, and 2 bathrooms with a walk-in shower. Towels and bed linen are provided in the villa.
The villa offers a picnic area. Both a bicycle rental service and a car rental service are available at Villa Vardis Heated Pool, while fishing can be enjoyed nearby.
Historical – Folklore Museum of Gavalochori is 12 km from the accommodation, while Ancient City of Aptera is 23 km away. The nearest airport is Chania International, 43 km from Villa Vardis Heated Pool, and the property offers a paid airport shuttle service.
from
€44
/night
Featuring mountain views, Villa Chrysallis with heated pool provides accommodation with a balcony and a coffee machine, around 32 km from Archaeological Museum of Rethymno. This villa has a private pool, a garden, barbecue facilities, free WiFi and free private parking.
The villa with a terrace and sea views features 6 bedrooms, a living room, a flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen with a dishwasher and an oven, and 7 bathrooms with a bath. Towels and bed linen are provided in the villa.
A car rental service is available at the villa.
Historical – Folklore Museum of Gavalochori is 11 km from Villa Chrysallis with heated pool, while Ancient City of Aptera is 22 km away. The nearest airport is Chania International, 44 km from the accommodation, and the property offers a paid airport shuttle service.
from
€384
/night
Boasting pool views, Villa Inati offers accommodation with a patio and a coffee machine, around 32 km from Archaeological Museum of Rethymno. This property offers a private pool, free WiFi and free private parking.
The villa is fitted with 3 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, bed linen, towels, a flat-screen TV with streaming services, a dining area, a fully equipped kitchen, and a balcony with mountain views.
Staff at the villa are always available to provide information at the reception.
Villa Inati has a garden and sun terrace.
Historical – Folklore Museum of Gavalochori is 11 km from the accommodation, while Ancient City of Aptera is 17 km from the property. The nearest airport is Chania International, 36 km from Villa Inati, and the property offers a paid airport shuttle service.
from
€454
/night
Located in Fílippos, Villa Gianna by PosarelliVillas offers accommodation with a private pool, a patio and pool views. This property offers access to a balcony, mini-golf, free private parking and free WiFi.
The villa with a terrace and sea views features 4 bedrooms, a living room, a flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen with a dishwasher and an oven, and 3 bathrooms with an a bath or shower. The air-conditioned villa also provides a seating area, washing machine and 3 bathrooms with a hair dryer.
The villa offers a barbecue. A outdoor play equipment is also available at Villa Gianna by PosarelliVillas, while guests can also relax in the garden.
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno is 30 km from the accommodation, while Historical – Folklore Museum of Gavalochori is 12 km away. The nearest airport is Chania International Airport, 45 km from Villa Gianna by PosarelliVillas.
from
€315
/night
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