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Our adventure begins from our base in Bali, after a security update and a little practice. We drive away from the main traffic through provincial and country roads, which only locals know and we cross one of the biggest olive groves of the island.
We explore 10 small traditional villages with narrow streets, meet local people and admire Venetian and Ottoman stone buildings of the 17th and 18th century, which will take us back in time to another era.
In one of our stops we explore one of the most important caves of Crete, Melidoni cave, which is located on top of a mountain.
We enjoy the amazing panoramic view of the beautiful valley, with dozens of villages and the highest mountain of Crete called Psiloritis – Idi.
We have much fun on the dirt roads, passing through the fields as we discover unique picturesque landscapes of the beautiful wildlife of Crete.
We’ll make enough stops during our safari, offering excellent opportunities for amazing pictures and breathtaking landscapes.
Benefit from pick-up at your hotel in the Rethymno area, and then explore the traditional lifestyle and historical legacy of Crete.
Learn the Neolithic history of the Melidoni Cave and discover the pottery traditions of the village of Margarites.
Discover the oldest monastery in Crete at the 16th-century Arkadi Monastery, and then go to the village of Apostoli to visit an old olive oil factory. Enjoy lunch in a traditional tavern and listen to the beautiful sound of live folk music before making your way to St. Antonios Gorge. Stop at the Fragma Potamon dam before making your way back to Rethymno.
Experience the ultimate cross-country adventure with Nostos Safari. This unique cross-country real-off-road experience takes you from the coast to the mountains. Drive through off-road routes and pass through breathtaking landscapes, from traditional village alleys to stunning mountain passes. With Nostos Safari, you’ll have the freedom and adventure of a quad bike to explore the stunning natural landscapes of Crete. Discover the unforgettable experience of cross-country living and book your quad safari today with Nostos Safari.
We have designed this unforgettable trip to submerge you into an authentic way of life in one of the island’s most beautiful regions while gaining a deeper understanding of the relationship between history, stunning escapes, gastronomy, and the authentic Cretan local lifestyle.
You will also visit the world-famous Palace of Knossos, where your expert guide will ensure skip-the-line access to all archaeological areas, key pieces of information, and extra-personalized attention.
Then, from the history and cultural experience, you will be immersed in another time wandering the unspoiled Cretan landscape along with authentic layers of flavors, wines, and village life of the island of Crete.
Enjoy personal pick-up and drop-off with a premium vehicle at your full-day disposal, like a true VIP.
Panormo, located approximately 20km east of the city of Rethymnon in the Milopotamos province, is a peaceful coastal village. It has experienced rapid growth in recent years while preserving its traditional charm. Its attractiveness lies in the untouched beauty of the Cretan countryside, the charming village, stunning beaches, and convenient accessibility.
Panormo boasts two primary beaches and several smaller ones. The village’s Greek name, which translates to ‘a location with a natural port’, aptly describes Panormos as it is a natural harbour with tranquil waters. The beach at the harbour, known as Limanaki, serves as the region’s port. It’s sandy, with clear waters, making it perfect for families with young children due to its shallow waters and the protection from waves provided by a cement pier. The beach is well-equipped with umbrellas, showers, water sports facilities, and plenty of accommodation and dining options nearby. Adjacent to Limanaki is a smaller, less populated sandy beach.
The second main beach, Limni, is situated just 200m west of the village. Similar to Limanaki, it is sandy and shielded by a rocky pier, essentially dividing it into two separate beaches. Further east, a small, secluded cove with a pebbly beach is perfect for undisturbed relaxation and snorkelling during calm seas. Panormo can be reached via direct bus services from Rethymnon or suburban bus services between Heraklion and Rethymnon. Excursion boats also operate from the local harbour.
A short history of the area
Panormo is historically significant and is thought to be located on the site of the ancient city of Panormus. The discovery of the impressive basilica of St. Sophia, dating back to the 6th century AD, confirms the presence of an ancient city. The basilica, situated 500m southwest of the village, is considered one of the largest Christian churches in Greece and the biggest in West Crete. The village is also known as Kastelli of Milopotamos, named after the fort built by the Genoese conquerors in 1206, which was later captured by the Venetians. Remnants of this fort can still be seen near the harbour.
In more recent history, Panormo served as a hub for transporting goods produced in the surrounding region, particularly olives and carobs. A renovated old carob mill, now used as a cultural centre, can still be visited. The village was bombed during the German Occupation. The construction of a new national road in the 1970s, adjacent to the village, and the building of a marina in 1980 has contributed to Panormo’s tourism growth. The village celebrates three festivals every year: Ascension, St. John on June 24, and St. Nicholas on December 6.
Spilies, also known as “Tou Maliou to Riaki” or Maliou stream, is a hidden gem located 15km to the east of Rethymnon city. Nestled between Skaleta and Geropotamos, the area is serene and tranquil, despite its proximity to the main highway that links Heraklion and Rethymno.
This hidden paradise is nestled in a small rocky bay, boasting of a pebbly beach with crystal clear and deep waters, shielded by towering cliffs. The defining feature of the cove is the stunning cavernous rocks that shelter the small beach from the west. Beyond the western and eastern ends of the beach, several sea caves and rock formations with extraordinary shapes adorn the landscape. Unfortunately, a portion of the eastern caves collapsed in the winter of 2011-12. These caves serve as crucial habitats for endangered species like the Mediterranean monk seal.
For an adventurous day, explore the rocky shores east of the beach, leading to the remarkable natural rocky arch of Geropotamos.
The beach provides basic amenities such as umbrellas, beds, and a small canteen. However, be wary of waves, which are a common occurrence due to the northern winds.
To reach the beach from Rethymnon, take the main road to Heraklion. After passing Skaleta, you’ll spot “Creta Farm”, followed by two gas stations on either side of the road. A short path to the beach begins behind the gas station on your left, marked by a sign to Spilies (ΣΠΗΛΙΕΣ). To avoid a left turn on the national road, it’s recommended to enter the station on your right and then turn back towards Rethymno.
Geropotamos, situated approximately 18km east of Rethymnon and 3km west of Panormo, is named after the eponymous river that empties into the eastern end of the beach. The beach, though small, is marked by its sandy terrain and crystal-clear, cool water, a result of the river that runs throughout the year, forming a small lake near the shore. The beach is minimally organized with umbrellas and a canteen that provides refreshments, coffee, water, and some basic food supplies. A luxurious hotel is also located adjacent to the river. Although easily accessible, the beach remains quiet and uncrowded. However, the orientation of the shore makes it susceptible to northern winds.
Geropotamos’ location on the main road connecting Heraklion and Rethymno makes it easily accessible. You can even reach it by bus by asking the driver to stop at Geropotamos. The area’s importance is underscored by its status as a natural shelter for rare birds and animals, courtesy of the Waterland. West of Geropotamos, the shore is riddled with cavities, home to the rare monk seals (Monachus monachus) and falcons.
A few meters west of Geropotamos beach, you’ll find an extraordinary rocky arch known as Kamara. Beneath Kamara, there lies a small beach with sand, small pebbles, and crystal blue waters. The beach’s size makes it vulnerable to north winds, with waves almost covering it. However, on calm sea days, it is truly beautiful. The beach, surrounded by vertical cliffs that provide natural shade, is only accessible by boat. A fun activity on windless days is to swim from Geropotamos and snorkel en route.
Cape Lianos, the eastern end of Geropotamos beach, also known as the Lavris area, is a rocky cape with a luxury hotel built on it. In front of the hotel, there are some small artificial coves with piers protecting them from waves. Although they appear private, you can reach the coves via a footpath that begins near the Geropotamos beach and heads eastwards, even if you’re not a hotel guest.
The Lianos Cape area, along with the Geropotamos wetland, is protected under the European program “Natura 2000”. It is home to a variety of reptiles, birds, turtles, amphibians, mammals, and plants, some of which are indigenous or endangered.
Commencing 11km east of Rethymno and extending 3km eastward is the Skaleta beachfront, marking the end of the expansive beach of the Bay of Rethymno. The first resort you encounter after Pighianos Kampos is Sfakaki, which is exceptionally well arranged.
Stavromenos beach is the next stop, just 1km away, named after the area’s synonymous settlement. The beaches here are predominantly sandy and meticulously organized, with spots featuring pebbles and tiny rocks. As you journey eastward, the sandy stretch narrows down and gradually fades until it vanishes at the end of the Rethymno Gulf.
Continuing another 1km, you will reach the final segment of the immense East Rethymnon beachfront, Skaleta. Like all beaches on the north coast, Skaleta beachfront is exposed to the winds and typically experiences waves. The surrounding area has seen considerable development in recent years, now abounding with large hotels and tourist facilities. Regular bus services are available from Rethymno to Sfakaki, Stavromenos, and Skaleta.
From May to September, summer nights bring an extraordinary sight as loggerhead sea turtles lay their eggs in the Gulf’s sand. It’s not uncommon to see small areas of the beach cordoned off and inaccessible to visitors where nests have been spotted.
The ancient site of Eleftherna is situated 25km southeast of Rethymno and in close proximity to the Monastery of Arkadi. It is the most significant archaeological location in the Rethymno prefecture, with many areas still to be excavated. The University of Crete began the first organized excavations in 1985.
Eleftherna was established by the Dorians around the 9th century BC and was inhabited until the early Byzantine years. Its strategic location at an altitude of 380m, with roads connecting it to ancient Kydonia, Knossos, and Ida Mount, contributed to its long history. Findings have been discovered in three different positions on the same hill.
During the first Cretan War (205BC-200BC), Eleftherna sided with Macedonia against Knossos. The town resisted the Roman occupation, led by general Quintus Caecilius Metellus, until it eventually fell by treachery. In the Roman period, the city continued to prosper, with the construction of baths, cisterns, villas, public buildings, and towers. The Byzantine era marked the last period of the city before its destruction by the Arabs. It became a Diocese, and the great basilica, of which remains still stand today, was built. The significance of Eleftherna as an archaeological site led to the creation of the Archaeological Museum of Eleftherna above the site.
At the Orthi Petra position, a necropolis was discovered, becoming the most important part of Eleftherna with numerous findings (and still being excavated). Here, archaeologists found the “tomb of warriors” containing 480 vases, weapons, and the trench of warriors killed in battle.
In 2010, archaeologists discovered an unlooted tomb from 700BC. The tomb was a large lying jar, with its entrance blocked by an 800kg boulder. Inside the jar were the bones of a young couple, possibly siblings, covered with a gold cap made of 3000 gold sheets of different shapes. The girl wore gold jewelry depicting a bee, the first representation of a bee as a goddess in Crete. Interestingly, when the jewelry is turned upside down, the bee disappears, and a beautiful lily takes its place. In another jar, archaeologists found a golden, real-size eye among the bones. They named it “Tutankhamun’s eye” as it is identical to the one in the funerary mask of the Egyptian King.
About 4 km northeast from the village Margarites, in the province of Milopotamos, a dirt road leads to the Late Minoan domed tomb of Margarties dating back to 1350 BC, which is considered one of the most important sites in the area. An aisle with carved stones leads to a circular domed tomb. Inside it, the bones of four adults and two children were discovered. The findings suggest that they belonged to a higher social and religious class.
The Holy Cross Monastery (Timios Stavros) in Vosako is situated on a small plateau amidst the peaks of Koutroulis and Mesokofinas in the Talean Mountains, approximately 50km east of Rethymno. To reach the monastery, visitors can drive through the village of Doxaro, where they will be greeted by the stunning, rugged landscape. Alternatively, there is another route that begins in the village of Sisses.
The name Vossako is derived from the Greek words “vous” (buff) and “sakos” (fold), which translates to “cattle pen.” This is likely because the plateau was once used to feed cattle.
Constructed like a fortress, the monastery’s main temple (Katholiko) is dedicated to the Holy Cross. During celebrations, pilgrims embark on a challenging trek to the monastery from Kalo Horafi, near Panagia Charakiani in Bali, which takes around 2-3 hours.
Up until the late 20th century, the monastery lay in ruins and was completely abandoned. However, it has since been restored and now functions normally. The buildings are spread across two levels and feature two courtyards, with the main temple located in the southern courtyard. A beautiful Venetian fountain can be found outside the temple, while the main entrance is quite impressive.
Historically, the monastery played a significant role in the revolution against the Turks, leading to its destruction by them on two separate occasions.
The Agio Pnevma (Holy Spirit) Monastery likely dates back to the 12th century and had already achieved autonomy and prosperity by the end of Venetian rule. Tragically, on June 15, 1821, local Turks slaughtered the monks and set fire to the monastery.
Subsequently, the damaged monastery became a subsidiary of the Preveli Monastery, and by 1836 it functioned as a widely known school throughout Crete and Gavdos, drawing thousands of students from all over the island.
In the present day, the monastery is home to a monument dedicated to the 200 volunteers led by Demetrios Petropoulakis, who lost their lives in a battle against the Turks on December 5, 1868. The monastery has since been restored and has resumed operations.
Attali Monastery, also known as Bali Monastery, is situated on the hill of Agia Ypakoi, to the west of Bali, offering stunning sea views and easy access to the main road connecting Rethymnon and Heraklion. Before the highway was built in 1970, the area was quite isolated, allowing monasticism and asceticism to thrive.
This male monastery is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist and features a two-level complex. Near the grand entrance, you’ll find the stables, and as you explore further, you’ll come across the old mill, a pottery workshop, a bakery, the monks’ cells, and the refectory adorned with frescoes.
Unlike most Cretan monasteries, the church is situated on the northeast side of the complex and outside it. To protect the monks from frequent pirate attacks, a heavy door was installed to isolate the stairs leading to the temple, creating a fortress-like structure. However, the temple remains outside of this protective barrier.
The Bali area has been significant in local history due to its bay being a crucial point for supplying rebels with ammunition and communication with liberated Greece. The Turks attempted to occupy the area multiple times, causing severe damage to the monastery. Interestingly, there is another monastery named Bali in Sifnos, where it is believed that the monks of Attali transferred the sacred icon of Our Lady to protect it from Turkish hands.
Although one of the lowest peaks in the Talean Mountains of Rethymno, the summit of Apakoui holds great archaeological significance. It is strategically located above Bali, offering unobstructed views of the sea, Pyrovolopetra (the port of ancient Astali), and the plains of North Milopotamos. The name Apakoui is derived from the Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos, who is said to listen to prayers.
On the summit of Apakoui, you can find scattered broken pottery and the remnants of old walls on a small artificial plateau, which is all that remains of the chapel of Virgin Mary Gorgoepikoos. The church, built during early Christian times, was later destroyed, but its name lives on. A rough wooden cross stands nearby, signifying the area’s sacredness. The chapel was constructed on the site of a former Minoan Peak sanctuary, believed to have been the sanctuary of Astali. On the hill’s north side, a portion of the trail connecting Eleftherna to ancient Astali remains. The east side of Apakoui features a stone fountain that supplies water to Atali Monastery. However, the ascent to the summit is steep, dangerous, and the old path is damaged.
The monastery of St. John is home to the church of Panagia Charakiani, located just off the highway. According to tradition, a shepherd discovered the miraculous icon of Panagia in a cavernous rock (charaki). This icon is kept in the monastery and moved to Charakiani during August. Locals used to stay in reed huts for the first 15 days of August, leading up to the celebration of Panagia on August 15, though this tradition has declined in recent years. To the west of the church, you can find the blazon of the Kallergis family, the most influential Cretan family during the Venetian period.
Located 43km east of Rethymnon, the Diskouri Monastery is regarded as one of Crete’s oldest monasteries, with the nearby ornately adorned Byzantine church of Saint John the Baptist attesting to its age.
Currently owned by the Halepa Monastery, the complex is thought to have been constructed on top of an ancient temple of Dioscuri, though this has yet to be confirmed. It took on its present form during the final years of Venetian rule when it resembled a fortress.
The church of Saint George sits at the center of the courtyard, and its old icon of Saint George is well-known among Cretan herders who swear on it when accused of stealing animals.
Having been severely damaged by the Turks and the unsightly interventions of the 20th century, the monastery has significantly changed from its original form. Bishops Parthenios and Meletios, as well as Arkadi Monastery’s chieftain Paul Dedidakis, were laid to rest in the courtyard.
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Margarites is a renowned village in the Milopotamos province, celebrated for its stunning architecture and traditional pottery. The broader region, encompassing the villages of Margarites, Orthe and Eleftherna, is characterized by a sequence of small, parallel gorges. Tiny watercourses like Margaritianos meander northwards, contributing to the Geropotamos River. These gorges are carved into the white-yellow marly limestone from the Upper Miocene era (8-10 million years ago), a result of the area’s uplift and water erosion.
The gorges’ most striking features are their abundant flora and extraordinary environment. Small groups of horizontally branched cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var horizontal) blend with low shrubs, wildflowers, and aromatic plants. The local authorities have fashioned small trails that reveal the area’s beauty to visitors.
The Arkadi Gorge begins just north of the Arkadi Monastery and offers a picturesque journey of approximately two hours. Certain sections along the gorge’s bed are inaccessible due to waterfalls and dense vegetation, making it possible to walk only along the eastern banks. The hiking trail concludes near the Pikris village where it joins the Gypofarago gorge. Here, visitors can appreciate significant Venetian architectural landmarks. The gorge, with its extraordinary natural beauty, allows visitors to marvel at representative species of Cretan flora and fossils.
A slim area of the gorge can also be viewed by driving to the Arkadi Monastery, as the roadway runs through it. This means you can get a sense of its appearance just by visiting the monastery.
The Platania Gorge, positioned above the Platania village, links the southeast slopes of the Psiloritis range to the Amari valley, approximately 38km southeast of Rethymno. The river flowing through it collects water from the west of the Migia (1584m) and Spathi (1779m) peaks and channels it to the River Platys, which terminates in Agia Galini. A challenging yet secure trail winds its way up to the starting point at Kokkinoharako, skirting its steep slopes. The trail provides hikers with breathtaking views of the towering cliffs, vertical limestone rocks displaying yellow-red hues of erosion, rock shelters, and numerous caves.
At roughly 800m altitude, a small plateau hosts the cave-like church of Saint Anthony (Agios Antonios), constructed near a spring. The trail from Agios Antonios continues its ascent northwest, meeting a dirt road originating from the Vistagi village. On the opposite side of the gorge, in the east, lies the Panas cave, named after the ancient god Pan, god of the wild, shepherds, and flocks, who, as per local folklore, was born here. The cave houses petroglyphs from the Minoan era, indicating continuous worship at the site. The same dirt road from Vistagi provides access to the nearby church of Saint Mammes (Agios Mamas), the patron saint of shepherds in Christianity.
The Platania Gorge’s interior is stunning, though few get to witness it due to its steep waterfalls, which require technical canyoning equipment to navigate. The tallest waterfall stands at approximately 40m. The first known crossing of the gorge was in 2008 by the canyoning group of Giannis Bromirakis and Christoforos Cheiladakis. The cliffs provide a nesting habitat for various bird species, including vultures, hawks, wild pigeons, and crows.
Located in the stunning province of Amari, the Patsos or Agios Antonios gorge is situated 8 km southwest of Arkadi Monastery. The gorge’s water is collected in the Potami dam. Trekking through the gorge is relatively easy up to a certain point, thanks to a well-marked trail created by the forest service. This trail concludes at the gorge’s narrowest point, where a unique waterfall cascades into a cave. Beyond this point, the gorge narrows and forms several small waterfalls. The descent to the Potami lake demands careful attention, particularly during winter and spring. Another path leads to the avifauna watchtower situated above the river.
The Patsos Gorge is renowned for Agios Antonios’ cavernous temple (Saint Anthony), which was once a sacred cave dedicated to Kraneos Hermes in ancient times. Water seeps from the rocks and drips from the temple roof, accumulating as holy water. It’s fascinating to observe the thousands of prayer papers that devotees have tucked into the rock cavities surrounding the temple. Large plateaus with wooden benches and tables, perfect for picnicking, are located beneath the temple and by the river.
The gorge derives its name from Patsos, a village nestled at the base of Mount Soros at an altitude of 490 meters. It’s approximately 30 km south of Rethymnon. The area boasts a rich variety of flora due to the numerous springs throughout the region that provide a year-round water supply.
Located in Margarítai, 6 km from Museum of Ancient Eleftherna and 27 km from Archaeological Museum of Rethymno, CASA CANTICO provides air-conditioned accommodation with a balcony and free WiFi. With garden views, this accommodation offers a patio.
The villa with a terrace and mountain views features 1 bedroom, a living room, a flat-screen TV, an equipped kitchen with an oven and a toaster, and 1 bathroom with a shower. Towels and bed linen are provided in the villa.
The villa offers a picnic area. A car rental service is available at CASA CANTICO, while cycling can be enjoyed nearby.
Psiloritis National Park is 38 km from the accommodation, while Arkadi Monastery is 14 km away. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 65 km from CASA CANTICO.
Situated in Margarítai in the Crete Region, 41 km from Heraklio Town, Mon Emvasia Margarites Villas boasts a seasonal outdoor pool. Bali is 12 km away. Free WiFi is featured throughout the property and free private parking is available on site.
All units include a dining area and a seating area with a satellite TV. All units feature a terrace and/or balcony with sea or mountain views. There is also a kitchen, fitted with a dishwasher. An oven and coffee machine are also provided. Bed linen is offered.
Mon Emvasia Margarites Villas also includes a barbecue.
Hiking is possible in the surrounding area. The Museum of Ancient Eleutherna can be reached within proximity. Réthymno Town is 20 km from Mon Emvasia Margarites Villas. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 44 km from Mon Emvasia Margarites Villas.
from
€145
/night
Featuring air-conditioned accommodation with a private pool, Dim Art Traditional Villa – with private pool is located in Áno Tripódhon. The accommodation is 5.4 km from the Museum of Ancient Eleftherna and has free WiFithroughout the property.
The villa with a balcony and mountain views features 6 bedrooms, a living room, a TV, an equipped kitchen with an oven and a microwave, and 3 bathrooms with a bath. Towels and bed linen are featured in the villa.
Guests can also relax in the garden.
Archaeological Museum of Rethymno is 28 km from the villa, while Psiloritis National Park is 37 km away. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 65 km from Dim Art Traditional Villa – with private pool.
Set in Margarítai, Villa Dim – With Private Pool offers accommodation with a private pool. This property offers access to a balcony, free private parking and free WiFi.
The air-conditioned villa consists of 2 bedrooms, a living room, a fully equipped kitchen with a dishwasher and a coffee machine, and 2 bathrooms with a bath and a hair dryer. Towels and bed linen are offered in the villa.
Museum of Ancient Eleftherna is 5.4 km from the villa, while Archaeological Museum of Rethymno is 28 km from the property. The nearest airport is Heraklion International Airport, 65 km from Villa Dim – With Private Pool.
from
€243
/night
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