Ancient Itanos
Ancient Itanos is an archaeological site on the north-east tip of Crete, beside the Itanos beaches and 1.5 km from the palm forest of Vai. A western acropolis, an eastern citadel, 2 Early Christian churches and a cemetery survive on the ground. The city that stood here held the whole eastern corner of the island.
The city of Itanos
The ancient city of Itanos was a powerful city in Crete, particularly during the Hellenistic and Greco-Roman periods. The name Itanos comes from its founder, who originated from Phoenicia. At its peak, the city’s territory extended from Cape Samonio (now known as Cape Sidero) to Cape Erythrae (present-day Cape Goudouras).
The city prospered due to the trade of glass, fishing, and Tyrian purple, a red dye derived from shell extracts. Koufonissi Island, owned by Itanos, produced purple dye. Additionally, Palekastro was home to the temple of Diktaean Zeus, which brought significant profits to the region. The city was situated near the famous palm grove of Vai in East Crete.
Rivals, the temple of Diktaean Zeus and the fall of Itanos
Itanos’ power was evident in its impressive marble buildings, temples dedicated to Asclepius, Zeus, Tyche, Athena, and its own currency featuring the face of its protector, Athena. The city was a major rival of Praesus (near today’s Nea Presos) and Ierapytna (now Ierapetra). The primary point of contention was the Temple of Diktaean Zeus and Koufonissi.
Praesus managed to incorporate the Temple of Zeus into its territory, but Itanos regained it in 150 BC with the assistance of its Egyptian allies. A relevant inscription can still be seen on the wall of the Toplou Monastery, located a few miles to the west. After four years, the impoverished Praesus was destroyed by Ierapytna, leaving only Itanos and Ierapytna as the main players. As a result, disputes over the temple of Zeus and Koufonissi quickly escalated.
Itanos began to decline in 795 AC due to an earthquake causing land subsidence, and it was further damaged by an Arab attack in the 9th century. However, even during this period, Itanos survived, as evidenced by its grand Christian churches. The city was not abandoned until the 15th century when repeated Arab raids forced its inhabitants to leave the coastal areas. It is believed that the residents founded the present-day village of Sitanos, near Nea Presos and Karydi, in the Zakros mountains.
What you see at the site today
Today, visitors can explore the archaeological site and admire various ruins such as the large tower on the western acropolis built with black stones, the grand Christian church in the eastern citadel of the Hellenistic settlement, the two Early Christian churches at the base of the hill leading to Vai, and the cemetery outside the town.
Things to do near ancient Itanos
5 other stops sit within about 8 km of the ruins, listed here nearest first.
- Swim below the ruins. The Itanos beaches lie 0.4 km from the site, the closest shore to the acropolis hills.
- Walk into the palm forest. Vai Beach is 1.5 km away and holds the largest palm forest in Europe, the same grove the ancient city stood beside.
- Find a quieter bay. Psili Ammos is 1.9 km off and Agios Isidoros 6.7 km away.
- Visit the monastery with the inscription. Toplou Monastery stands 6.7 km west and carries the inscription about the temple of Diktaean Zeus in its wall.
- See a Minoan town. Roussolakos Minoan Town lies 8.2 km away, near Palaikastro.
Getting to ancient Itanos
Follow the road to Vai and carry on past the palm forest to the coast. The ruins stand on two low hills at the shore, 0.4 km from the Itanos beaches.
The rest of the eastern corner opens up from the same road. Kouremenos is 7 km from the ruins and Hiona 8.2 km, both near Palaikastro, Chochlakies Gorge is 13.5 km away, and Ancient Trypitos at Sitia and the Agia Fotia Necropolis lie 14.2 km and 13.2 km off.
Frequently asked questions
Where is ancient Itanos?
Ancient Itanos stands on the north-east coast of Crete, 0.4 km from the Itanos beaches and 1.5 km from Vai. The site holds a western acropolis and an eastern citadel, next to the palm grove the ancient city grew up beside.
What made Itanos wealthy?
Glass, fishing and Tyrian purple, the red dye extracted from shells. Koufonissi, the island Itanos owned, was the centre of that purple production, and the temple of Diktaean Zeus at Palekastro brought further income to the territory.
How big was the territory of Itanos?
At its peak it ran from Cape Samonio, now Cape Sidero, to Cape Erythrae, now Cape Goudouras. That covers the whole eastern end of Crete.
Who did Itanos fight with?
Praesus and Ierapytna, over the temple of Diktaean Zeus and the island of Koufonissi. Praesus took the temple, Itanos won it back in 150 BC with Egyptian help, and four years later Ierapytna destroyed Praesus, which left the two remaining cities to carry on the quarrel.
Why was Itanos abandoned?
Repeated Arab raids drove the inhabitants off the coast in the 15th century. The city had already been weakened by an earthquake that caused land subsidence in 795 and by an Arab attack in the 9th century. Its people are thought to have founded the village of Sitanos in the Zakros mountains.
What can you see at Itanos now?
A black-stone tower on the western acropolis, a Christian church in the eastern citadel, 2 Early Christian churches and a cemetery. The two smaller churches stand at the foot of the hill on the side towards Vai, and the cemetery lies outside the line of the ancient town.
Location
Ancient Itanos is located at Ancient Itanos, in the Lassithi region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
