Agios Antonios beach

The quaint seaside village of Agios Ioannis, situated 73km south of Heraklion, lies just south of Kapetaniana village. Kapetaniana is nestled near the highest point of the Asterousia Mountains, the Kofinas Peak. It’s worth taking time to explore the Byzantine Church of the Panagia and the Church of the Holy Cross in Kapetaniana, or try your hand at the local climbing track.

You can journey from Kapetaniana to Agios Ioannis via an 8km dirt road. Beginning at an elevation of 750m, the route offers breathtaking views of the South Cretan Sea and the rugged landscape of Asterousia. At the end of a dusty, bumpy ride, you’ll arrive at the settlement where residents, primarily from Kapetaniana, spend their summers. Unfortunately, illegal construction mars the splendid southern Cretan scenery. Agios Ioannis derives its name from the ancient cavernous monastery of Saint John, adorned with striking frescoes.

The village of Agios Ioannis is nestled at the base of and along the small Ponda peninsula. To the west of Ponda, lies the serene Agios Ioannis beach, a haven of small pebbles and vibrant turquoise waters. Its rocky seabed is ideal for fishing. While it’s not officially organized, you’ll still find locals enjoying the beach. A few taverns, a mini market, and some accommodation options are available. Camping is also a great way to enjoy the tranquility of the area.

If you prefer more solitude, the beach of Eligia to the east of the peninsula is a must-visit. This beautiful beach, adorned with fine pebbles, is rarely crowded. Located at the end of the Volahas gorge, named after the Cretan word for rock, volakas, Eligia houses a small cave rumored to contain a princess’s treasure after her demise, hence the name Princess cave. Locals, however, refer to it as Gourounospilios or Pig Cave, after the pigs that were once kept there. There’s also a remarkable well on the beach, known as Kakopigado, where you can drink fresh water all year round. For those seeking even more seclusion, Agios Antonios to the east is worth exploring.

The Koudoumas Monastery is nestled 74km south of Heraklion, on the western edge of Cape Martelos and beneath Kofinas Peak, the highest summit of the Asterousia Mountains. This region is dotted with cavities, once the refuge of hermits. Getting to the monastery involves a 20km drive on a dirt road originating from Sternes village, which takes you from an elevation of 1000m down to sea level. The descent offers breathtaking views that might even induce vertigo! The path is lined with pine and cypress trees, many contorted by the forceful winds.

In front of the monastery, a beautiful pebble beach with crystal clear, cool waters awaits. It’s a perfect spot for swimming and tranquil moments. Please be aware that nudism is not permitted here. Besides the monastery, there is no other infrastructure for several kilometres, so ensure you have all the essentials with you. Camping on the beach is allowed, as long as you respect the monks’ privacy. To the east of the beach, numerous caves provide shelter and shade.

Dedicated to the Assumption, the Koudoumas Monastery was initially a small church within a cave. The original chapel, constructed in the 14th century and dedicated to Christ, was either abandoned or destroyed by pirates. In 1878, Saints Parthenios and Evmenios started constructing the monastery over the old church ruins. Today, it has been restored, with the ancient frescoes now visible. A newer, second church honouring Saint Parthenios and Evmenios has also been built, with their feast day celebrated on July 10. The monastery houses the relics of these saints.

Each year, on July 10 and August 15, hundreds of worshippers flock to the monastery to celebrate and spend the night on the beach, partaking in the feast. If you visit Koudoumas, take a 15-25 minutes walk westwards to the Cave of Avakkospilio, home to monks in the past. The cave boasts an impressive array of stalactites, stalagmites, and large columns. In antiquity, it served as a fertility goddess worship site, where childless women were brought. You can also trek to the St. Anthony’s Cave (60′-90′) or follow the old footpath eastwards to the village of Paranimfi (4-5 hours).

The Salamia(s) Bay, situated 74km south of Heraklion and between Agios Ioannis and Tripiti, is one of Crete’s most secluded regions due to the absence of nearby roads. It can be accessed via boat or an easy walk from Agios Ioannis, following a crossing at the Avolakias beach. The bay’s name, Salamia, has its origins from the Italian word ‘salamentum’, meaning brine, which shares a root with the word salt – a product still harvested by locals in the Salamia area.

The Salamiano Gorge, one of several canyons found in the Asterousia Mountains, opens out at Salamias. At the gorge’s exit, numerous beaches with rough sand are formed. The area is adorned with a small grove of wild olive trees, providing a serene setting for swimming and fishing, particularly for those with a boat. As the area is often deserted, naturism is permissible.

The gorges surrounding Salamias (including Flomias, Koumos, Gerakia, Goula, Eligia, and others) serve as crucial habitats for a variety of rare avifauna and plants. These regions remain among the few places in Crete that are authentic and untouched by human activity.

The petite stone-strewn beach, Vourlidia, situates at the termination point of the Flomias gorge, on the western region of Salamis bay, and at the bottom of Cape Oxa. This remarkable beach is accessible after a demanding hike from either the Agios Ioannis settlement to the east or from Tripiti beach to the west. The area surrounding the beach can be reached via a poorly maintained dirt path from the villages of Koumasa or Kapetaniana.