Koudoumas monastery
Koudoumas is a monastery on the south coast of Crete, at the foot of the Asterousia Mountains, with its church built inside a cave and the sea 40 m from its walls. It is reached by a long dirt road across the mountains rather than along the coast, which is why it counts as one of the most remote monasteries on the island. The monks offer a room for the night to anyone who arrives.
Where Koudoumas is and how to reach it
Koudoumas Monastery stands at the end of the Katarraktis gorge in the Asterousia Mountains, 80 km south of Heraklion and 40 m from the beach. It is considered one of the most remote monasteries in Crete, because the journey from Heraklion takes about 2.5 hours. The approach is a 24 km dirt road, safe to drive, which begins at the village of Sternes, itself reached from Charakas, and runs at an altitude of 1000 m near the peak of Kofinas at 1231 m.
The descent to sea level is the part drivers remember. The road opens onto the sea and the cliffs below, steep enough to induce vertigo, then passes the pine grove of Koudoumas. Goats stand on the sharp bare rock along the way.
The monastery and the caves around it
The ancient male monastery of Koudoumas sits at the bottom of that descent. Its church is built inside a cave and is dedicated to the Assumption, celebrated on 15 August. The surrounding area is full of caves, and hermits still live in many of them.
Two trails lead out from the monastery into that cave country. One reaches the cave of St Anthony, near Agios Antonios beach 1.6 km away, and the other goes to Avvakospilios Cave. Walkers who would rather not drive can reach Koudoumas on the trail from Sternes, a 3-hour walk through the pine grove.
The name and the rebuilding of 1870
The name Koudoumas possibly originates from the monastery’s founder. A Venetian document of 1280 records the surname Cudhumano, which could be related to Koudoumas. The current monastery was constructed in 1870 by the monks Parthenios and Eumenios Charitakis, on the site of the previous, ruined monastery. That earlier house had been abandoned, like all other coastal monasteries in Crete, because of frequent pirate attacks on the shores of the island in the 15th century.
Feast days at Koudoumas
Koudoumas celebrates every year on 15 August, with pilgrims arriving from all over the Messara region. Many of them come on 14 August and spend the night in the guest rooms or on the beach. A second celebration on 10 July honours the monks Eumenios and Parthenios, who re-established the monastery and have been recognised as saints.
The icons of Koudoumas
Koudoumas Monastery houses the icon of Our Lady of Kykkos of Dexiokratousa, meaning Right Hand Holding. The icon was discovered in the house of Ali Pasha in Ioannina and donated to the monastery by Helen Skandalaki in 1957. A chapel in the complex contains the icon of the Visitation, which is associated with a miracle that occurred in 1940.
Staying at the monastery
The monks are known for their hospitality and offer overnight accommodation to all visitors. Many locals stay here through the summer, using the basic amenities of the small guest rooms, which include a kitchen, water and a bath. The complex also holds a welcome room, a refectory, a library, a small museum and the monks’ cells.
Things to do around Koudoumas
Five places lie within 6 km of the monastery, listed nearest first. All of them are on the same roadless stretch of the Asterousia coast.
- Walk the Koudoumas Gorge, which reaches the coast 0.9 km from the monastery.
- Swim at Agios Antonios beach, 1.6 km away and named after the cave of St Anthony.
- Continue to Agios Ioannis beach, 2.7 km along the shore.
- Hike the Goula Gorge, 3.6 km from the monastery.
- Drive east to Tris Ekklissies, 5 km away, one of the few settlements on this coast.
Beaches near Koudoumas
The monastery has a beach at its own door, and six more lie within 10 km along the Asterousia shore.
- Agios Antonios beach is the closest at 1.6 km.
- Agios Ioannis beach follows at 2.7 km.
- Tris Ekklissies beach lies 5 km east.
- Voidomatis beach sits 7 km away and Katarti beach 7.2 km.
- Tripiti beach is 9.4 km off, below the Tripiti Gorge.
Getting to Koudoumas monastery
Drive to Charakas, then to Sternes, and take the 24 km dirt road down to the coast. Allow about 2.5 hours from Heraklion for the whole journey, because the mountain section is slow. The alternative is the 3-hour walking trail that leaves from Sternes and drops through the pine grove to the monastery.
Two other sites in the Asterousia work as a stop on the same trip. The Koumasa Prepalatial Cemetery lies 8.3 km inland, and the sanctuary of Ancient Levena sits further west along the south coast.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Koudoumas monastery?
Koudoumas monastery is 80 km south of Heraklion, at the end of the Katarraktis gorge in the Asterousia Mountains. It stands 40 m from the beach, on the south coast of Crete.
How long does it take to get to Koudoumas?
The drive from Heraklion takes about 2.5 hours. The last 24 km is a dirt road from Sternes that climbs to 1000 m near the peak of Kofinas at 1231 m before dropping to the sea.
Can you walk to Koudoumas?
Yes, a trail from Sternes reaches the monastery in about 3 hours. The route runs through the pine grove of Koudoumas, and it is the option walkers take instead of the dirt road.
Can you stay overnight at Koudoumas?
Yes, the monks offer overnight accommodation to all visitors in small guest rooms. The rooms have a kitchen, water and a bath, and many locals stay for weeks at a time through the summer.
When does Koudoumas celebrate?
The main feast is on 15 August, the Assumption, when pilgrims come from across the Messara. Many arrive the day before and sleep in the guest rooms or on the beach. A second celebration on 10 July honours the monks Eumenios and Parthenios, who rebuilt the monastery in 1870 and were later recognised as saints.
Location
Koudoumas monastery is located at Koudoumas monastery, in the Heraklion region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
