The quaint seaside village of Agios Ioannis, situated 73km south of Heraklion, lies just south of Kapetaniana village. Kapetaniana is nestled near the highest point of the Asterousia Mountains, the Kofinas Peak. It’s worth taking time to explore the Byzantine Church of the Panagia and the Church of the Holy Cross in Kapetaniana, or try your hand at the local climbing track.
You can journey from Kapetaniana to Agios Ioannis via an 8km dirt road. Beginning at an elevation of 750m, the route offers breathtaking views of the South Cretan Sea and the rugged landscape of Asterousia. At the end of a dusty, bumpy ride, you’ll arrive at the settlement where residents, primarily from Kapetaniana, spend their summers. Unfortunately, illegal construction mars the splendid southern Cretan scenery. Agios Ioannis derives its name from the ancient cavernous monastery of Saint John, adorned with striking frescoes.
The village of Agios Ioannis is nestled at the base of and along the small Ponda peninsula. To the west of Ponda, lies the serene Agios Ioannis beach, a haven of small pebbles and vibrant turquoise waters. Its rocky seabed is ideal for fishing. While it’s not officially organized, you’ll still find locals enjoying the beach. A few taverns, a mini market, and some accommodation options are available. Camping is also a great way to enjoy the tranquility of the area.
If you prefer more solitude, the beach of Eligia to the east of the peninsula is a must-visit. This beautiful beach, adorned with fine pebbles, is rarely crowded. Located at the end of the Volahas gorge, named after the Cretan word for rock, volakas, Eligia houses a small cave rumored to contain a princess’s treasure after her demise, hence the name Princess cave. Locals, however, refer to it as Gourounospilios or Pig Cave, after the pigs that were once kept there. There’s also a remarkable well on the beach, known as Kakopigado, where you can drink fresh water all year round. For those seeking even more seclusion, Agios Antonios to the east is worth exploring.