Treis Ekklisies, or Three Churches, is a hidden coastal village situated 64km south of Heraklion, nestled within the rugged and untamed terrain of the Asterousia Mountains. This remote area of Crete, despite its challenging accessibility, boasts some of Greece’s most beautiful beaches. Reaching Treis Ekklisies involves a scenic 10km drive along a winding asphalt road, beginning in the village of Paranymfi, offering breathtaking views of the sea.
While in Paranymfi, visitors can explore the ancient monastery of Saint Paul, adorned with 14th-century frescoes. Just half a kilometre past Paranymfi, the breathtaking Libyan Sea and Tris Ekklisies vistas can be admired from the majestic Ambas Gorge waterfall, standing at a height of 145m.
The settlement of Treis Ekklisies is nestled in a bay at the mouth of the Ambas Gorge. The surrounding cliff walls house Greece and Southern Europe’s largest vulture colony, including the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), one of Europe’s rarest vulture species.
The village’s name, Three Churches, originated from the three local Byzantine churches dedicated to Transfiguration, St. George, and Annunciation. A lengthy sandy beach with crystal-clear deep waters lies in front of the settlement. While the beach lacks extensive infrastructure, there are available accommodations, cafes, and taverns nearby. Further to the east, along the coastal dirt road, one can find the rock of Kolovrehtis and a small cove, followed by Volakas beach and finally, Glikia Vlyhada, both well-liked by locals and free campers.
Located on the southern slopes of the Asterousia Mountains, Voidomatis or Vouidomatos, which translates to ‘ox’s eye’, is situated 62km south of Heraklion and 2.5km east of the Treis Ekklisies settlement. The breathtakingly rugged gorge of Mesosfinis, known for its towering walls and wild cliffs, a common sight in Asterousia, leads you to Voidomatis.
Upon exiting the gorge, you’re greeted by a beautiful beach with sandy shores and crystal clear blue waters. Notable features of this beach are two large rocks in the sea and an impressive sea cave, the ‘ox’s eye’, situated at the eastern end of the beach. This location can be reached via the old dirt road that connects Treis Ekklisies to the Mournia village. Surrounding Voidomatis, you’ll find several secluded bays with stunning beaches, usually only visited by locals.
Just 100m east of Voidomatis, lies the small yet captivating Plysimo Beach, which can be reached through a challenging climb. The beach, known for its coarse sand, is positioned at the exit of another smaller gorge in the area. This beach gets its name from the local shepherds who would wash their sheep here. Locals still refer to the beach as Tsagaraki’s Plysimo, named after Dimitris Tsagarakis who used to wash his sheep at this location.
The Glykys Kolymbos beach, also known as Glykos Kolymbos, is the most westerly beach in the Tris Ekklisies region of the Asterousia Mountains. It’s a remarkable location featuring striking geological formations in the water that appear as stripes when viewed from above. The beach’s name, which translates to sweet water beach, is derived from the freshwater springs that bubble up underwater.
What sets Glykys Kolymbos apart are the three incredible interconnected caves at its eastern end, resembling a series of rooms. The largest of these caves stands at a height of 20 meters, and the first one is likened to a swimming pool. A stunning stone bridge takes shape at the eastern end’s extremity.
Access to the beach is primarily by boat due to the challenging land approach. However, a steep ravine after the beach’s western end allows for a descent to the beach. This ravine sits beneath a small sheepfold, right where the dirt road that runs through the Tris Ekklisies carob wood terminates. Due to the poor state of this dirt road, access is typically on foot from the Ornios beach to the west, along the steep shores. Here, you can marvel at the cliffs featuring natural arches. A unique natural balcony, a rock shelter, forms above the termination point of the dirt road, offering a breathtaking view of the sea.
Kaminaki Beach, a secluded pebbly beach ideal for fishing, is situated 58km south of Heraklion, on the southeastern fringes of the Asterousia Mountains. The rugged mountains surrounding the beach create a quintessentially Cretan landscape, featuring hard-to-reach gorges, bare rocks, steep cliffs, and isolated beaches mostly reachable by boat. The beach lies at the end of the wild Perivoliano Gorge, also known as Gerontzou.
Access to Kaminaki Beach is primarily via sea, given the difficulty in descending the gorge and the beach’s distance from the nearest road. The closest harbour can be found 3km west in Treis Ekklisies. A smaller beach located 400m west in the Agio Pnevma area is not as aesthetically appealing as Kaminaki.
On the opposite side, a striking beach with turquoise waters and a unique Δ-shaped sea cave can be found 700m east of Kaminaki. The beach is nestled in the embrace of Alykevra Bay, at the Sfakidia location, and is well-shielded by Cape Alykapounda. Heading west beyond Alykapounda Cape, you’ll find Alykevra, where a small rocky bay houses a freshwater spring. This spring was historically used by local shepherds to quench their flocks’ thirst. The area of Alykevra features a single beach situated at the mouth of a narrow canyon at the Prikovlyhada location. Despite its small size (1.5m in width), the pebble beach of Prikovlyhada is exceptional, with the canyon walls providing sunshade and nearby caves adding to its charm.
The Koudoumas Monastery is nestled 74km south of Heraklion, on the western edge of Cape Martelos and beneath Kofinas Peak, the highest summit of the Asterousia Mountains. This region is dotted with cavities, once the refuge of hermits. Getting to the monastery involves a 20km drive on a dirt road originating from Sternes village, which takes you from an elevation of 1000m down to sea level. The descent offers breathtaking views that might even induce vertigo! The path is lined with pine and cypress trees, many contorted by the forceful winds.
In front of the monastery, a beautiful pebble beach with crystal clear, cool waters awaits. It’s a perfect spot for swimming and tranquil moments. Please be aware that nudism is not permitted here. Besides the monastery, there is no other infrastructure for several kilometres, so ensure you have all the essentials with you. Camping on the beach is allowed, as long as you respect the monks’ privacy. To the east of the beach, numerous caves provide shelter and shade.
Dedicated to the Assumption, the Koudoumas Monastery was initially a small church within a cave. The original chapel, constructed in the 14th century and dedicated to Christ, was either abandoned or destroyed by pirates. In 1878, Saints Parthenios and Evmenios started constructing the monastery over the old church ruins. Today, it has been restored, with the ancient frescoes now visible. A newer, second church honouring Saint Parthenios and Evmenios has also been built, with their feast day celebrated on July 10. The monastery houses the relics of these saints.
Each year, on July 10 and August 15, hundreds of worshippers flock to the monastery to celebrate and spend the night on the beach, partaking in the feast. If you visit Koudoumas, take a 15-25 minutes walk westwards to the Cave of Avakkospilio, home to monks in the past. The cave boasts an impressive array of stalactites, stalagmites, and large columns. In antiquity, it served as a fertility goddess worship site, where childless women were brought. You can also trek to the St. Anthony’s Cave (60′-90′) or follow the old footpath eastwards to the village of Paranimfi (4-5 hours).
The stunning Aspes beach, with its dark sand, is nestled approximately 58km south of Heraklion, in one of the most remote and hard-to-reach areas of the Asteroussia Mountains. This beach lies 4km to the east of the Tris Ekklisies settlement. Aspes is known for its almost vertical cliffs surrounding it, adorned with spectacular caves that appear as if carved by hand due to their orthogonal sides. The vibrant turquoise hues of the sea make it one of the most picturesque beaches in Crete, and perhaps the most beautiful in the Heraklion region. The beach offers fantastic opportunities for swimming and fishing.
Reaching the beach by foot is not possible, so it’s only accessible by boat. The closest harbours are in Treis Ekklisies or Tsoutsouras. The beach, due to its secluded location, provides a tranquil atmosphere, waiting to greet the fortunate boat owners. Boats are typically moored high on the beach’s rocks, their ropes creating an interesting grid-like pattern. If you visit Aspes, it’s recommended to bring a spoon to collect salt from the natural salt pans formed on the rocks at the beach’s edge. Additionally, don’t miss the towering rocks at the beach’s western end, reminiscent of scattered Obelix’s menhirs!
St. Anthony, also known as Agios Antonios, is situated 71 kilometers south of Heraklion, nestled between the village of Agios Ioannis and Koudoumas Monastery on Crete island. This secluded area is accessible only by a footpath linking Agios Ioannis to the monastery, meandering amid pine trees. Midway along the path (20′-30′), a Δ-shaped cave housing the quaint St. Anthony chapel can be observed from a distance. The cave, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, drips holy water into three troughs. This cave was once a refuge for monks, including Saint Parthenios and Evmenios, the founders of Koudoumas Monastery.
The surrounding landscape is dotted with several small bays that house pristine beaches with coarse sand and crystal-clear deep waters. These secluded beaches are encircled by towering cliffs and small caves providing shade. The remoteness and challenging access make this location perfect for those seeking solitude or for fishing enthusiasts, as it can only be accessed by swimming from the sides. The largest beach is named Agios Antonios or Green Beach, named after the nearby St. Anthony’s cave and the sea’s hues. The two smaller coves to the west are known as Small (Mikro) Agadiko and Big (Megalo) Agadiko, which are not directly visible from the trail. Additionally, the small cave of Hostospilios, located west of Agios Antonios and near Agadiko beaches, is also worth visiting.
The quaint seaside village of Agios Ioannis, situated 73km south of Heraklion, lies just south of Kapetaniana village. Kapetaniana is nestled near the highest point of the Asterousia Mountains, the Kofinas Peak. It’s worth taking time to explore the Byzantine Church of the Panagia and the Church of the Holy Cross in Kapetaniana, or try your hand at the local climbing track.
You can journey from Kapetaniana to Agios Ioannis via an 8km dirt road. Beginning at an elevation of 750m, the route offers breathtaking views of the South Cretan Sea and the rugged landscape of Asterousia. At the end of a dusty, bumpy ride, you’ll arrive at the settlement where residents, primarily from Kapetaniana, spend their summers. Unfortunately, illegal construction mars the splendid southern Cretan scenery. Agios Ioannis derives its name from the ancient cavernous monastery of Saint John, adorned with striking frescoes.
The village of Agios Ioannis is nestled at the base of and along the small Ponda peninsula. To the west of Ponda, lies the serene Agios Ioannis beach, a haven of small pebbles and vibrant turquoise waters. Its rocky seabed is ideal for fishing. While it’s not officially organized, you’ll still find locals enjoying the beach. A few taverns, a mini market, and some accommodation options are available. Camping is also a great way to enjoy the tranquility of the area.
If you prefer more solitude, the beach of Eligia to the east of the peninsula is a must-visit. This beautiful beach, adorned with fine pebbles, is rarely crowded. Located at the end of the Volahas gorge, named after the Cretan word for rock, volakas, Eligia houses a small cave rumored to contain a princess’s treasure after her demise, hence the name Princess cave. Locals, however, refer to it as Gourounospilios or Pig Cave, after the pigs that were once kept there. There’s also a remarkable well on the beach, known as Kakopigado, where you can drink fresh water all year round. For those seeking even more seclusion, Agios Antonios to the east is worth exploring.
Skiadaki, a mesmerizingly tiny beach, is found at the exit of the wild Kakoperatos canyon. It’s nestled 66km south of Heraklion and 10km south of Achendrias village on the eastern flank of the Asterousia Mountains. This beach, one of the most secluded on Crete, boasts beautiful pebbles and is enveloped by steep rocks.
Access to the beach is primarily by boat, though adventurous souls could trek for an hour west from the Agios Nikitas Monastery, traversing two small gorges in the Petrigiari area. However, the boat remains the simplest method of travel. The surrounding region is a haven for fishing enthusiasts. If you arrive by boat, ensure you take the time to explore the gorge and marvel at the rugged landscape, culminating in a dead-end with waterfalls that dry up in the summer months.
The beach’s name, Skiadaki, translates to “small shade,” a homage to the shady, dark bottom of the gorge produced by the towering cliffs. Indeed, if you visit Skiadaki, there’s no need for an umbrella as you’ll find ample shade throughout the day.
Situated 65km south of Heraklion on the eastern flank of the barren Asterousia Mountains is Agios Nikitas. The most common means of reaching this location is by navigating a rugged dirt road beginning from the village of Ahendrias, leading to the Monastery of St. Nikitas, 15km away. The captivating journey takes you past precipitous cliffs and jagged rocks, characteristic of the Asterousia landscape.
Overlooking the South Cretan Sea from a hill, the Agios Nikitas monastery was initially a retreat for monks from the Koudoumas monastery. The monastery’s church, dedicated to St. Nikitas, was constructed in a cave around 1640. Inside, you’ll find ancient frescoes and a smoke-stained roof, allegedly blackened during pirate attacks. A small indentation within the church produces water used as holy water. Despite the area’s dry climate, mango and avocado trees flourish in the monastery’s gardens.
A brief trail from the monastery leads to Agios Nikitas beach, accessible via 230 steps. This secluded pebble beach features crystal clear waters with a deep green hue, offering no typical tourist amenities. Nudism is considered disrespectful near monasteries, so it is not recommended here.
To the east of the main beach is a twin beach, Kalogerou Arolithos, primarily accessible by boat or swimming. A large smooth, steep rock separates the beaches, believed to bear the footprints of Saint Nikitas’ horse, according to legend.
Further east, a small cottage houses a secluded pebble beach, accessible via a small stairway originating from the cottage. Named Hiromili, this beach is typically empty.
Walking westward from the main beach, one would soon encounter the cape Gerani, home to a solitary palm tree overlooking the expansive Libyan Sea.
A brief 300m journey westward from St. Nikitas leads to the picturesque white-washed chapel of St. Anthony and a small carob wood. Adjacent to the chapel is a stream flanked by Theophrastus palm trees, constituting the third largest colony of the Cretan date palm in Crete, known as the small palm grove of Saint Anthony. Several small isolated coves in the area, known as Kalami, are ideal for swimming and fishing. The nearest place for water and food supplies, aside from the monastery, is the village of Maridaki, 2km to the east.
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