Beyond the charming village of Drymiskos, a sequence of coves unfurls into a series of beaches spanning 3 km, collectively known as Drymiskiani Gialia (Drymiskos Beach). Rocks and reefs segment these beaches, providing an exciting snorkelling experience. The area remains largely undiscovered due to its more challenging accessibility compared to other locations in the South Rethymnon prefecture. The most well-known section of Drymiskian Beach is Amoudi, the westernmost beach where the paved road from Preveli beach ends. Ammoudi serves as the starting point for a brief trail to Preveli beach, where most visitors park their cars.
Venturing eastwards from Amoudi along the paved road, one can discover numerous serene sandy beaches, perfect for solitude and naturism. At the heart of Drymiskian Beach, Kefala’s beaches are marked by a distinctive black, tooth-like rock jutting from the sand. The best beaches in the area can be found on either side of this rock. Continuing further, one reaches the less crowded Anatolika beaches, also known as East, renowned for their deep, clear waters. From Anatolika, the journey can be extended to the Kerames beaches, the first of which is Gialopotama. While most beaches lack trees, large rocks provide ample shade throughout the day.
The quaint village of Kerames is situated 49km to the south of Rethymno, in close proximity to the village Agalianos. South of Kerames, there are numerous stunning beaches, with Ligres, Triopetra and Agios Pavlos sandhills of Akoumiani Gialia being the most well-known. To the north of Akoumiani Gialia, there is Keramiani Gialia or Kerames Beach, named after the nearby village.
The narrow, poorly paved road leading to Keramiani Giulia ends near the local port of Agia Fotini, which is also known as Agia Fotia. This location is home to beautiful small pebble beaches, perfect for snorkelling and swimming, and is surrounded by large boulders. The traditional Stavros tavern is built on an old carob storehouse and serves fresh fish on the beach. It also offers accommodation, and has a reminiscent atmosphere of the Greek islands of the 1960s. The tavern provides free umbrellas and showers. Near Agia Fotia, there is a small river that forms a green forest. Following the path north along the river, you will encounter a tall palm tree and the old church of Agia Fotini, located near a small house with a lovely garden. A 5-minute walk west of the tavern along the rocky shore will lead you to another pebbly beach.
On the hill near Agia Fotini tavern, you can still see the remnants of the ancient town Kionia, which thrived in its heyday. Today, the ruins cover an area of over 150 meters east to west and 100 meters north to south, while the other half of the town is submerged underwater, in front of the tavern. Traces of buildings and terraces that suggest the existence of Kionia can be seen in the surrounding area. It is thought that the sinking of the town forced its inhabitants to leave and move to higher ground, where the villages Kerames and Agallianos now stand.
Kerames, a village situated 49km south of Rethymno, neighbors the village of Agalianos. It is surrounded by stunning beaches to its south, including the well-known beaches of Akoumiani Gialia, such as Ligres, Triopetra, and Agios Pavlos sandhills. Keramiani Giulia, or Keramean Beach, lies to the north of Akoumiani Gialia, its name derived from the nearby village.
A somewhat dilapidated asphalt road leads to Keramiani Gialia, ending near the local harbour of Agia Fotini, also referred to as Agia Fotia. To the southeast of Agia Fotini, the primary beaches of Keramiani Gialia are located. A well-maintained dirt track from Agia Fotini leads to these beaches, the first being Podare. With its coarse sand and rocky areas, Podare is perfect for activities like fishing and snorkelling. Despite being an unorganized beach, it offers rental rooms for visitors.
After leaving Podare, a simple dirt road heads eastward, taking you past a large hill to a parking area situated near more rental rooms. Here, the road ends, and the beach on your right, Glima, begins. This sandy, secluded, and unorganized beach offers total privacy.
Continuing eastward on foot for about 100m, a towering sandhill becomes visible to your left. Pahia Ammos, or Coarse Sand, lies in front of the sandhill and provides an ideal spot for those seeking complete seclusion.
Preveli Beach is a palm-fringed beach and freshwater lagoon on the south coast of Crete, where the Megalos Potamos river meets the Libyan Sea at the mouth of the Kourtaliotiko gorge. It sits about 35 km south of Rethymno and 10 km east of Plakias, and is also known as Lake Preveli, Phoenix, or Finikas. Recognised as the most celebrated beach in southern Crete, it drew hippie travellers in the 1960s and 1970s and remains one of the island’s signature summer spots.
A colony of Theophrastus date palms (Phoenix theophrasti) lines the banks of the Megalos Potamos, one of the few natural palm forests in Europe. The river carries water all year and widens into a long lagoon before it reaches the sea, so the water stays fresh and cool. At the river mouth a beach of pebbles and sand meets the Libyan Sea, and the seawater runs cooler than usual because of the incoming river. A heart-shaped rock, known to locals as the Stone of Lovers, marks the eastern side of the beach.
In August 2010 a major fire burned most of the palm grove, destroying close to 70% of the forest. The Theophrastus palm proved unusually fire-resistant, and the grove regenerated over the following seasons. The beach stays unspoiled, with no umbrellas or built-up shoreline, because it lies within a protected Natura 2000 reserve.
To reach Preveli Beach, choose one of 3 routes, because there is no road directly to the sand and every option ends with a walk:
The stepped path on the west side is in full sun with no shade, and the climb back up is strenuous. Bring water, sun protection, and proper shoes, and set off early in the day. Renting a car is the simplest way to reach this part of the south coast; see car rental in Crete.
The beach has no sunbeds or umbrellas because the area is protected, though a small seasonal taverna near the river mouth serves drinks and snacks. The sand gives way to slippery rocks and stronger currents once you are in the sea, so take care when swimming. The river side is calm and shallow, and it is good for snorkelling.
A footpath follows the river upstream from the beach, winding through the palm grove to shallow pools where you can cool off when the water level allows. The trail leads into the Kourtaliotiko gorge and stays easy enough for families.
The quieter months of May, June, September, and October are the best time to visit, with warm weather and thinner crowds. Preveli is popular through July and August, so arrive early to find a parking space and beat the heat on the steps.
The beach takes its name from the nearby Preveli Monastery, a men-only monastery founded in the 16th or 17th century and dedicated to St John the Theologian. There are 2 monasteries in the area, the older Piso Monastery and the newer Kato Monastery, near the old Preveli stone bridge. According to local legend, Odysseus, king of Ithaca, stopped in the wider Preveli area on his way home from the Trojan War.
Yes. Preveli pairs a rare natural palm forest and a freshwater lagoon with a south-coast beach on the Libyan Sea, a combination you will not find at most Cretan beaches. It takes effort to reach, but the scenery and the river walk reward the trip.
Drive from Plakias towards Preveli Monastery, park at the cliff-top car park, and walk down the steps to the beach. For an easier approach, drive to Drimiskiano Amoudi and take the short 5-minute path, or take a boat from Agia Galini, Plakias, or Damnoni.
From the west car park, a long flight of steps leads to the beach in roughly 15 to 40 minutes each way, depending on your pace. The path is in full sun with no shade, so carry water and wear proper shoes. The east route from Drimiskiano Amoudi is a flat 5-minute walk.
Yes. There is a guarded car park on the cliff-top above the west side of the beach, and a small daily fee applies. A second car park serves the easier eastern approach from Drimiskiano Amoudi.
No. Because the area is a protected reserve, there are no sunbeds or umbrellas on the sand. A small seasonal taverna near the river mouth serves drinks and snacks.
The sea is blue and usually calm, but currents and waves can pick up, and the sandy shore turns to rock underfoot in the water. The river side is cooler and fresher, calm, and good for snorkelling.
May, June, September, and October are the calmest, with warm weather and fewer visitors. In the peak of July and August, arrive early for parking and shade.
Yes. A footpath follows the river upstream from the beach into the palm forest and gorge, leading to shallow pools you can dip in when the water level allows. It is an easy walk suited to families.
Situated 51km to the south of Rethymno and 7km below the village of Kerames, Ligres is nestled at the base of the grand Siderotas mountain. It forms the northern segment of the Akoumiani Gialia beachfront, which runs from the cape of Mellissa to the south.
Ligres is an expansive beach graced with rough sand and a spectacular deep sea. Its somewhat challenging access has thankfully deterred the encroachment of tourism, preserving it as one of the most serene, secluded and pristine beaches on the island. Although the beach is not developed, there are a few taverns and rooms available on its western side accessible via a poorly maintained asphalt road. At the beach’s western tip, there is a stunning waterfall that boasts a year-round water supply, cascading right next to the sea.
Beyond the northern end of the beach, also known as Katsouni, lies a secluded beach favored primarily by nudists. Despite its seclusion, there are numerous spots along this vast, uninhabited beach where nude swimming is possible. It’s worth venturing along the beachfront to Triopetra, up to the Xiromilia area, to marvel at the astonishing rock formations. In the heart of Ligres, a remarkable reddish boulder stands out near the sea.
Ammoudi beaches are located 32 kilometers south of Rethymno and 5 kilometers east of Plakias village. Ammoudi beaches are accessible via a paved road from the village of Lefkogia. This road leads you directly to the first beach, Ammoudi, recognizable by its distinctive green slippery rock. Ammoudi beach has a slight organization, with available amenities such as umbrellas, nearby taverns and rooms, and even a scuba diving centre. Ammoudi Beach offers white sand, rocky seabed, and bright green waters, making it ideal for diving and snorkelling. There’s also the option to find shade and camp under the many tamarisk trees located next to the beach.
Heading west from Ammoudi, a dirt road begins that will take you towards Damnoni, passing by towering cliffs and impressive rocks. Just 200m west of Ammoudi, along this dirt road, you’ll discover a parking plateau that offers an unrestricted view of Damnoni. Here, you’ll see an enchanting miniature sandy beach, featuring turquoise waters and a unique rock in the sea. Known as Klisidi, this beach is an attractive choice when not crowded, though this is rare during peak season.
Adjacent to Klisidi, you’ll encounter the stunning nudist beach of Small Ammoudi or Ammoudaki. This small beach is popular among nudists for its turquoise waters and exceptional white coarse sand. It also has a small canteen offering umbrellas and sunbeds. On the beach’s west side, you can swim in a marine cave, where the sunlight turns the water a vibrant blue. You can easily walk on the sandy seabed. There’s also an underwater hole connecting Ammoudaki with Klisidi, allowing you to travel between the two beaches with just a dive. If you wish to reach the Ammoudi beaches on foot, simply walk east of Damnoni until you reach Ammoudaki.
Skinaria Beach (also spelled Schinaria or Shinaria) is a small, secluded beach on the south coast of Crete, 33 km south of Rethymno and 3 km south of the village of Lefkogia, in the eastern part of the Plakias area. It is best known for exceptionally clear water over a rocky, marine-rich seabed, which makes it one of the finest snorkelling and scuba-diving spots in the region.
The beach has soft grey-beige sand mixed with fine pebbles and deep, turquoise water. The seabed is mostly rocky, while the northern part of the beach is sandy. Small freshwater ponds sit on the shore, fed by springs that carry water down from the surrounding mountains, and the lush vegetation around them gives the area a tropical feel. The bay is framed by rock on either side, so the sea surface usually stays calm and the entry is gentle.
Skinaria is quieter than Crete’s headline beaches. It sees far fewer visitors than nearby resorts, though the single tavern and the small car park can fill on peak-season afternoons.
Skinaria has one of the richest seabeds on the island, and its water is clear enough to see more than 40 metres horizontally. Snorkellers and divers share the water with morays, blackfish and octopuses, and divers often describe the rocky seabed as being like an aquarium. A scuba-diving centre operates in the area and draws visitors from across Crete, which makes the beach a reliable choice for a day in the water rather than only on the sand.
A narrow road runs down to Skinaria from Lefkogia, roughly 2 km, and the beach is signposted from the village. Along the way, look for a cylindrical cave set inside a rock on your left. There is no direct public bus to the beach, so most visitors arrive by rented car or taxi. A small parking area sits beside the beach; it is enough for beachgoers but gets cramped at peak times, so arriving earlier in the day helps. A rented car is also the most flexible way to reach Skinaria if you want to combine it with other stops in the Plakias area, and you can rent a car in Crete for the trip.
Skinaria is only slightly organised. A local tavern serves refreshments and traditional Greek dishes and offers a few umbrellas and sunbeds, which on our last visit were free with a purchase. There is little natural shade, so bringing water and sun protection is sensible. The calm, shallow-entry bay is safe for children, and naturists tend to use the left-hand side, which leaves the rest of the beach for families and other visitors.
Two nearby beaches are within a short drive: the Ammoudi beaches to the west, and the larger, better-organised Damnoni beach a little further along the coast.
Skinaria Beach is on the south coast of Crete, 33 km south of Rethymno and 3 km south of the village of Lefkogia, in the eastern part of the Plakias area. It faces the Libyan Sea.
To reach Skinaria Beach, drive the narrow road, roughly 2 km long, down from Lefkogia; the turn is signposted from the village. There is no direct public bus, so most visitors arrive by rented car or taxi. A small parking area sits beside the beach.
Yes. The water is exceptionally clear, often more than 40 metres horizontally, and the rocky seabed holds abundant marine life, including morays, blackfish and octopuses. A scuba-diving centre operates in the area, and snorkellers can see plenty from the surface.
Skinaria is only slightly organised. A single tavern serves refreshments and traditional Greek dishes and offers a few umbrellas and sunbeds. There is little natural shade and no large resort infrastructure, so bring water and sun protection.
Yes. The bay is sheltered by rock on both sides, so the water stays calm and the entry is gentle, which suits children. Note that naturists tend to use the left-hand side of the beach.
Skinaria is popular with naturists, who usually gather on the left-hand side. Other visitors and families settle on the rest of the beach.
The swimming season runs roughly from May to October, when the water is warm and the weather is settled. Spring and early autumn are quieter than the July-to-August peak.
Yes, there is a small parking area beside the beach. It is enough for beachgoers but fills up during peak season, so arriving earlier in the day is wise.
Ammoudi beaches lie a short distance to the west, and the larger, better-organised Damnoni beach is a little further along the coast. Preveli Beach, with its palm-lined river, is another well-known stop in the wider Plakias area.
Situated 35km south of Rethymnon and 5km east of Plakias on Crete island, Damnoni beach is a well-known tourist destination. The resort is fully developed and well-structured, featuring a wide bay with turquoise waters and coarse, whitish sand. Visitors can enjoy numerous facilities including umbrellas, snack bars, showers, changing rooms, and water sports. Additionally, there’s a scuba diving centre, top-notch hotels, restaurants, and a horse-riding centre.
The westernmost part of the beach, which is highly organized, is home to a small river that maintains water nearly all year round. The eastern end of the beach is more serene and connects to the neighbouring Ammoudakii beaches via a short unpaved road. Beyond the western end of the beach, you’ll find several secluded small coves with sand and rocks, located right next to the area’s small harbour.
Situated 36km to the south of Rethymno city, Plakias is a charming tourist haven nestled at the mouth of a fertile valley just beyond the Kouroupa range, where the Kotsifos river meets the sea. It owes much of its popularity to the impressive Gialia beach, stretching for 1.3km from the edge of the town to the east, ending at Cape Mouri. This fully-equipped beach, characterized by its crystal-clear, cool waters, is an ideal location for leisurely walks or cycling along the adjacent road. It features numerous hotels and restaurants, as well as beach essentials such as umbrellas, water sports facilities, beach volley courts, snack bars, changing rooms, and showers.
Paligremnos, the eastern portion of the beach, boasts fine sandy shores and is well-appointed with various amenities close to local accommodation and eateries. Noteworthy are the tall, vertical cliffs nearby that prove to be a magnet for climbing enthusiasts. This spot, also known as “Gonates” (knees), is steeped in local lore; it’s said that the epic hero Digenis knelt here to drink from a local spring. An intriguing phenomenon takes place here every full moon from September to January, as the moon’s reflection on the sheer cliffs draws large squids to the beach, which locals catch with long sticks. A few meters south of Paligremnos, you can also discover tunnels once used for transporting coal to waiting cargo ships.
Triopetra beach, nestled at the base of Mount Siderotas and 52km south of Rethymno, can be reached via paved roads leading from either Akoumia or Sachtouria. Part of the extensive Akoumiani Gialia beachfront, Triopetra got its name as a historical winter refuge for the inhabitants of Akoumia, who built small huts near their olive groves. Presently, most land and hotels in the area are owned by descendants of these Akoumia residents.
Triopetra boasts two distinct beaches, separated by a petite peninsula. The peninsula’s defining feature is the three spectacular rocks jutting out from the sea, giving Triopetra its name, which translates to “Three Rocks”.
The first beach, Small Triopetra or Koumado, resides in an enclosed bay lined with sand and rock to the south of the three rocks. Here, the Akoumianos river meanders into the sea, forming a natural boundary between Triopetra and the enchanting Agios Pavlos Sandhills at Cape Melissa. Small Triopetra hosts a handful of taverns and rooms, with umbrellas available for sun-seekers. Additionally, the southeast edge of the beach is home to a small harbour, known as Stomio or “mouth”, named after the river’s mouth meeting the sea. Just 1km northeast of the beach, the awe-inspiring chapel of Prophet Elias stands on a high hill, commanding an impressive view over Akoumiani Gialia.
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