The quaint seaside village of Agios Ioannis, situated 73km south of Heraklion, lies just south of Kapetaniana village. Kapetaniana is nestled near the highest point of the Asterousia Mountains, the Kofinas Peak. It’s worth taking time to explore the Byzantine Church of the Panagia and the Church of the Holy Cross in Kapetaniana, or try your hand at the local climbing track.
You can journey from Kapetaniana to Agios Ioannis via an 8km dirt road. Beginning at an elevation of 750m, the route offers breathtaking views of the South Cretan Sea and the rugged landscape of Asterousia. At the end of a dusty, bumpy ride, you’ll arrive at the settlement where residents, primarily from Kapetaniana, spend their summers. Unfortunately, illegal construction mars the splendid southern Cretan scenery. Agios Ioannis derives its name from the ancient cavernous monastery of Saint John, adorned with striking frescoes.
The village of Agios Ioannis is nestled at the base of and along the small Ponda peninsula. To the west of Ponda, lies the serene Agios Ioannis beach, a haven of small pebbles and vibrant turquoise waters. Its rocky seabed is ideal for fishing. While it’s not officially organized, you’ll still find locals enjoying the beach. A few taverns, a mini market, and some accommodation options are available. Camping is also a great way to enjoy the tranquility of the area.
If you prefer more solitude, the beach of Eligia to the east of the peninsula is a must-visit. This beautiful beach, adorned with fine pebbles, is rarely crowded. Located at the end of the Volahas gorge, named after the Cretan word for rock, volakas, Eligia houses a small cave rumored to contain a princess’s treasure after her demise, hence the name Princess cave. Locals, however, refer to it as Gourounospilios or Pig Cave, after the pigs that were once kept there. There’s also a remarkable well on the beach, known as Kakopigado, where you can drink fresh water all year round. For those seeking even more seclusion, Agios Antonios to the east is worth exploring.
St. Anthony, also known as Agios Antonios, is situated 71 kilometers south of Heraklion, nestled between the village of Agios Ioannis and Koudoumas Monastery on Crete island. This secluded area is accessible only by a footpath linking Agios Ioannis to the monastery, meandering amid pine trees. Midway along the path (20′-30′), a Δ-shaped cave housing the quaint St. Anthony chapel can be observed from a distance. The cave, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, drips holy water into three troughs. This cave was once a refuge for monks, including Saint Parthenios and Evmenios, the founders of Koudoumas Monastery.
The surrounding landscape is dotted with several small bays that house pristine beaches with coarse sand and crystal-clear deep waters. These secluded beaches are encircled by towering cliffs and small caves providing shade. The remoteness and challenging access make this location perfect for those seeking solitude or for fishing enthusiasts, as it can only be accessed by swimming from the sides. The largest beach is named Agios Antonios or Green Beach, named after the nearby St. Anthony’s cave and the sea’s hues. The two smaller coves to the west are known as Small (Mikro) Agadiko and Big (Megalo) Agadiko, which are not directly visible from the trail. Additionally, the small cave of Hostospilios, located west of Agios Antonios and near Agadiko beaches, is also worth visiting.
The Koudoumas Monastery is nestled 74km south of Heraklion, on the western edge of Cape Martelos and beneath Kofinas Peak, the highest summit of the Asterousia Mountains. This region is dotted with cavities, once the refuge of hermits. Getting to the monastery involves a 20km drive on a dirt road originating from Sternes village, which takes you from an elevation of 1000m down to sea level. The descent offers breathtaking views that might even induce vertigo! The path is lined with pine and cypress trees, many contorted by the forceful winds.
In front of the monastery, a beautiful pebble beach with crystal clear, cool waters awaits. It’s a perfect spot for swimming and tranquil moments. Please be aware that nudism is not permitted here. Besides the monastery, there is no other infrastructure for several kilometres, so ensure you have all the essentials with you. Camping on the beach is allowed, as long as you respect the monks’ privacy. To the east of the beach, numerous caves provide shelter and shade.
Dedicated to the Assumption, the Koudoumas Monastery was initially a small church within a cave. The original chapel, constructed in the 14th century and dedicated to Christ, was either abandoned or destroyed by pirates. In 1878, Saints Parthenios and Evmenios started constructing the monastery over the old church ruins. Today, it has been restored, with the ancient frescoes now visible. A newer, second church honouring Saint Parthenios and Evmenios has also been built, with their feast day celebrated on July 10. The monastery houses the relics of these saints.
Each year, on July 10 and August 15, hundreds of worshippers flock to the monastery to celebrate and spend the night on the beach, partaking in the feast. If you visit Koudoumas, take a 15-25 minutes walk westwards to the Cave of Avakkospilio, home to monks in the past. The cave boasts an impressive array of stalactites, stalagmites, and large columns. In antiquity, it served as a fertility goddess worship site, where childless women were brought. You can also trek to the St. Anthony’s Cave (60′-90′) or follow the old footpath eastwards to the village of Paranimfi (4-5 hours).
The Glykys Kolymbos beach, also known as Glykos Kolymbos, is the most westerly beach in the Tris Ekklisies region of the Asterousia Mountains. It’s a remarkable location featuring striking geological formations in the water that appear as stripes when viewed from above. The beach’s name, which translates to sweet water beach, is derived from the freshwater springs that bubble up underwater.
What sets Glykys Kolymbos apart are the three incredible interconnected caves at its eastern end, resembling a series of rooms. The largest of these caves stands at a height of 20 meters, and the first one is likened to a swimming pool. A stunning stone bridge takes shape at the eastern end’s extremity.
Access to the beach is primarily by boat due to the challenging land approach. However, a steep ravine after the beach’s western end allows for a descent to the beach. This ravine sits beneath a small sheepfold, right where the dirt road that runs through the Tris Ekklisies carob wood terminates. Due to the poor state of this dirt road, access is typically on foot from the Ornios beach to the west, along the steep shores. Here, you can marvel at the cliffs featuring natural arches. A unique natural balcony, a rock shelter, forms above the termination point of the dirt road, offering a breathtaking view of the sea.
Treis Ekklisies, or Three Churches, is a hidden coastal village situated 64km south of Heraklion, nestled within the rugged and untamed terrain of the Asterousia Mountains. This remote area of Crete, despite its challenging accessibility, boasts some of Greece’s most beautiful beaches. Reaching Treis Ekklisies involves a scenic 10km drive along a winding asphalt road, beginning in the village of Paranymfi, offering breathtaking views of the sea.
While in Paranymfi, visitors can explore the ancient monastery of Saint Paul, adorned with 14th-century frescoes. Just half a kilometre past Paranymfi, the breathtaking Libyan Sea and Tris Ekklisies vistas can be admired from the majestic Ambas Gorge waterfall, standing at a height of 145m.
The settlement of Treis Ekklisies is nestled in a bay at the mouth of the Ambas Gorge. The surrounding cliff walls house Greece and Southern Europe’s largest vulture colony, including the bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), one of Europe’s rarest vulture species.
The village’s name, Three Churches, originated from the three local Byzantine churches dedicated to Transfiguration, St. George, and Annunciation. A lengthy sandy beach with crystal-clear deep waters lies in front of the settlement. While the beach lacks extensive infrastructure, there are available accommodations, cafes, and taverns nearby. Further to the east, along the coastal dirt road, one can find the rock of Kolovrehtis and a small cove, followed by Volakas beach and finally, Glikia Vlyhada, both well-liked by locals and free campers.
The Salamia(s) Bay, situated 74km south of Heraklion and between Agios Ioannis and Tripiti, is one of Crete’s most secluded regions due to the absence of nearby roads. It can be accessed via boat or an easy walk from Agios Ioannis, following a crossing at the Avolakias beach. The bay’s name, Salamia, has its origins from the Italian word ‘salamentum’, meaning brine, which shares a root with the word salt – a product still harvested by locals in the Salamia area.
The Salamiano Gorge, one of several canyons found in the Asterousia Mountains, opens out at Salamias. At the gorge’s exit, numerous beaches with rough sand are formed. The area is adorned with a small grove of wild olive trees, providing a serene setting for swimming and fishing, particularly for those with a boat. As the area is often deserted, naturism is permissible.
The gorges surrounding Salamias (including Flomias, Koumos, Gerakia, Goula, Eligia, and others) serve as crucial habitats for a variety of rare avifauna and plants. These regions remain among the few places in Crete that are authentic and untouched by human activity.
The petite stone-strewn beach, Vourlidia, situates at the termination point of the Flomias gorge, on the western region of Salamis bay, and at the bottom of Cape Oxa. This remarkable beach is accessible after a demanding hike from either the Agios Ioannis settlement to the east or from Tripiti beach to the west. The area surrounding the beach can be reached via a poorly maintained dirt path from the villages of Koumasa or Kapetaniana.
Katarti, a small beach nestled at the mouth of a narrow gorge, is situated 73km south of the city of Heraklion, at the base of Cape Oxa on Crete island. This secluded beach is enveloped by the untamed and majestic landscape of the Asterousia Range, lying southwest of Kofinas peak. One rugged dirt track from Salamias bay provides road access to the beach, but primarily, it is reached by boat or on foot from Agios Ioannis or Tripiti beach, located 2.5km westward.
The region is a haven for fishing enthusiasts as the rocky seabed still teems with fish, despite the damaging illegal use of dynamite by some locals. Katarti’s coastline is adorned with white pebbles and its waters are crystal clear and deep, while the surrounding rocky shores are strikingly beautiful. The beach is flanked by tall cliffs, a natural extension of the gorge’s walls into the sea, offering both wind protection and shade.
The name Katarti, translating to mast in Greek, is inspired by a tall boulder in the sea nearby. Some locals also refer to it as Arkouda, meaning bear, asserting that the rock formations resemble a bear!
Located on the southern slopes of the Asterousia Mountains, Voidomatis or Vouidomatos, which translates to ‘ox’s eye’, is situated 62km south of Heraklion and 2.5km east of the Treis Ekklisies settlement. The breathtakingly rugged gorge of Mesosfinis, known for its towering walls and wild cliffs, a common sight in Asterousia, leads you to Voidomatis.
Upon exiting the gorge, you’re greeted by a beautiful beach with sandy shores and crystal clear blue waters. Notable features of this beach are two large rocks in the sea and an impressive sea cave, the ‘ox’s eye’, situated at the eastern end of the beach. This location can be reached via the old dirt road that connects Treis Ekklisies to the Mournia village. Surrounding Voidomatis, you’ll find several secluded bays with stunning beaches, usually only visited by locals.
Just 100m east of Voidomatis, lies the small yet captivating Plysimo Beach, which can be reached through a challenging climb. The beach, known for its coarse sand, is positioned at the exit of another smaller gorge in the area. This beach gets its name from the local shepherds who would wash their sheep here. Locals still refer to the beach as Tsagaraki’s Plysimo, named after Dimitris Tsagarakis who used to wash his sheep at this location.
Located in the Kalokambos region, approximately 73km south of the city of Heraklion, Leprias, also known as Lepries, is a quaint pebbly beach nestled amidst the rugged and awe-inspiring landscape of the Asterousia Range, southwest of Kofinas peak. The beach is accessible via a hiking trail that starts at Tripiti beach and leads to Agios Ioannis. Leprias beach is set against a steep dirt slope that erodes and crumbles, reminiscent of a leper’s skin, giving the beach its name, derived from the Greek word for leper.
The safest way to descend to the beach from the trail is from the bay’s western end. The eastern part of the beach boasts impressive caves that provide shade throughout the day. As you travel between Leprias and Tripiti, you will encounter other beautiful beaches in the Kalokambos area, characterized by their rocky bottoms and favored by local fishermen.
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