SUNNY HOUSE IN MAKRY GIALOS

In the vicinity of the verdant and water-rich springs of Orino village, we encounter one of Crete’s most precipitous rivers. The river’s sources are found high up on the Abelia plateau, nestled within the Thripti and Papouri mountains. These springs quickly form a river which traverses the village square before making its way into the rugged Orino canyon. To navigate the canyon along the riverbed, canyoneering gear is necessary. The river carves out stunning waterfalls and pools, with the final section being particularly breathtaking. The last trio of waterfalls at Peristerionas are among Crete’s most beautiful. The river’s water volume is also noteworthy, particularly in the typically dry region of East Crete. Even in the summer, the gorge maintains a steady water flow.

The river continues its journey downstream, passing through the Red Butterflies canyon before reaching Koutsouras beach. Despite suffering considerable damage in a 1993 fire, the gorge’s vegetation remains lush, serving as a green oasis in the warm eastern Crete. The gorge begins near the exit of the Orino Gorge and concludes at Koutsouras after a 3-4 hour walk (starting from Orino village and circumventing the wilder parts of the Orino gorge). Signposts along the route guide the way. At the route’s commencement, there are a few small springs and waterfalls which dry up during the summer. Winter, however, makes hiking in the gorge quite challenging. The gorge earns its name from the red butterflies that flutter amongst the bushes and flowers, creating a truly unique spectacle. Regrettably, their numbers have significantly dwindled in the aftermath of the fire.

The Pefki Gorge, also known as Anegyrous Gorge, is a stunning small gorge located in East Crete. Its beauty is characterized by breathtaking rock formations molded by nature and lush greenery. The gorge extends for approximately 4.5 km, with an elevation difference of 300 meters between the entrance and exit. The gorge begins south of Pefki village and concludes at the Aspros Potamos settlement, 2km north of Makrigialos. The stream running through the gorge collects water from the area south of the Romanati peak (937m) and carries it to the Analipsi beach. The gorge features a well-defined path that traces the riverbed for most of its length. At certain points, benches are available for rest. A 2-hour journey through the gorge is part of the E4 European long-distance path.

The Journey
The journey through the gorge commences slightly south of Pefki, where the familiar black and yellow E4 signs direct you to the entrance, adjacent to the old Ilias water mill (1925). From here, an easy path skirts the edges of the canyon before descending to the river bed at the heart of the gorge. The canyon is vibrant with pine trees, while the riverbed is predominantly surrounded by platans and herbs. Spectacular white rock formations, unique to Crete and over 100 meters tall, flank the sides of the canyon.

Upon reaching the southern exit of the gorge, you’ll find a spring of clean, drinkable water for refreshment. The gorge’s exit is located in the Pisokaminos area, near the Aspros Potamos village, rather than by the sea. Further along, you’ll encounter the remarkable large rock known as Volakas Sarakinou (Saracen’s rock). Legend has it that a Saracen pirate once took refuge here after being left behind in Crete. The rock is covered in small pebbles, believed to be the remnants of an old children’s game. The kids would throw stones at Volakas, and if a stone stayed on the rock, they would find food at home. If not, they wouldn’t. Following Aspros Potamos village, you’ll reach the main road connecting Makrigialos and Pefki. If no one is waiting to pick you up by car, you’ll need to walk the remaining 2km to Makrigialos.

Commencing from the west of the village of Skinokapsala, at the Kipos spot, lies the petite yet fairly broad Ahlia gorge. This gorge, blanketed by pine trees, concludes at the Ahlia beach, also referred to as Galini. Throughout the winter season, the Thripti Range feeds a river with its waters, creating a string of waterfalls that vary in height from 5 to 8 meters. The gorge’s sandstone walls are wide enough to make hiking a breeze, eliminating the need for any canyoning gear.

Located on the northern slopes of the Thripti range, near Kavoussi village and Avgos settlement, you’ll find the short but incredibly wild and imposing Mesonas gorge. This 4km long gorge requires technical canyoneering equipment to traverse its steep waterfalls. The gorge connects the Thripti Plateau to the Kavoussi plain, with its exit close to the Azorias archaeological site. The same stream forms the technical Havgas gorge, crosses the fertile Kavoussi plain, and eventually empties onto Tholos beach.

Starting from the Tsamadi position near Thripti village, there’s a hiking trail that runs high above the gorge bed, following the concrete channel used to transfer spring water to Kavoussi. The breathtaking views of the canyon, surrounding mountains, and Mirabello bay are beyond words. The trail descends to ancient Azorias, from where you can approach Kavousi via the ancient path parallel to the Havgas Gorge, or through the dirt road passing the Monumental Olive Tree of Azorias.

For canyon enthusiasts wanting to traverse the river bed, it’s worth noting that the water levels are generally low, with the flow ceasing mid to late spring depending on seasonal rainfall. The gorge starts out smoothly, with the hiking portion exceeding the steep descent sections. The last part of the gorge changes dramatically, narrowing significantly and forming high waterfalls, with the highest rappel at 30m. A small group of canyoneers can descend its 9 rappels in about 3 hours.