Lake Kournas
Lake Kournas is the only natural freshwater lake in Crete. It sits in a green valley about 3 km inland from Georgioupolis, roughly 2.5 km from the sea, and lies between Chania (about 43 km to the west) and Rethymno (about 20 km to the east). The lake makes an easy day trip from either city, and visitors come to pedal-boat across the calm water, walk the shore, swim in the shallows, and watch its terrapins and waterbirds.
The lake is small and roughly circular. It covers 57.9 hectares, reaches a maximum depth of 22.5 m, and measures about 1080 m long and 880 m wide. In summer it holds roughly 7.5 million cubic metres of water. The river Delfinas carries the lake’s overflow down to Kavros beach, and drainage works on some sides divert water to nearby farmland.
How the lake formed
Lake Kournas formed where groundwater from the White Mountains collected in a natural pit. The lake still draws that water through underground springs: the main spring, called Amati or Mati (meaning “eye”), sits above the water in summer and hides below the surface in winter, while a second spring stays submerged all year. The porous rock on the southeastern side lets water in, and the harder rock on the opposite side holds it back.
The lake belongs to the Natura 2000 network of protected areas, with a nature preserve on its southwest side. Its dark colour comes from algae on the bottom, and the surrounding wetland supports rare aquatic plants. In recent years, introduced goldfish have multiplied and disrupted this closed ecosystem, and building work along the shore, including restaurants and lakeside stores, has degraded parts of the setting.
Wildlife: turtles, eels and birds
Lake Kournas is home to terrapins, eels, water snakes and a range of waterbirds. Terrapins are its most familiar residents, and they are the “turtles” many visitors come to spot near the shallows. The lake has also long been known for its eels, which still live here in large numbers. Moorhens, ducks, herons and cormorants all use the wetland, which is easy to watch from the shore.
Things to do at Lake Kournas
Lake Kournas offers several lakeside activities, such as pedal boating, swimming and walking. The main things to do are listed below.
- Rent a pedal boat (pedalo) to glide across the calm water, or take out a kayak.
- Swim in the shallow, clear areas near the shore.
- Walk the shoreline and watch the birds and terrapins.
- Eat at the tavernas and cafes that overlook the water.
- Hire a sun lounger or umbrella in the summer months.
The afternoon is the calmest time on the water, when the lake shows its richest colour. Cafes and restaurants line one side of the lake; they bring shade and food, though they have changed the natural look of the shore.
When to visit and what to expect by season
In summer the water level drops, small sandy beaches appear along the edge, and the shoreline loop of about 3.5 km takes under an hour to walk. This is the season for pedal boats, swimming and the sandy shore.
In winter and spring the water rises, the vegetation on the banks grows dense, and the beaches disappear, so walking around the lake becomes difficult and the water can cover the steps beside the restaurants. There are no fixed opening hours, but boat hire, loungers and the sandy shoreline are seasonal and mostly available in the warmer months.
Name and history
The name Kournas is thought to come from the Arabic word kurna, meaning “lake” or “bath”. In older manuscripts the lake appears as Korissia, and the area is believed to have hosted a sanctuary dedicated to Korissia Athena. The lake keeps that ancient link to the goddess in its old name.
Legends of Lake Kournas
The dark water has inspired awe for centuries, and in the past locals believed the lake was bottomless. Measurements later settled the question: its deepest point is 22.5 m.
One myth tells of a village that stood where the lake now lies. A beautiful girl lived there with her father. One day, while they rested in the fields, the girl combed her hair and her father’s admiration turned to forbidden desire. As he tried to seize her, she cried out, “Lake, come, and I will be the ghost of the lake.” The ground sank and flooded, forming the lake. Locals still say a fairy has been seen combing her hair in the moonlight on a rock at the centre of the lake, protecting its animals and ducks.
Another version says God flooded the village to punish the sinful behaviour of its people, drowning everyone but the priest’s daughter, who became the fairy. Some visitors also link the lake’s strange atmosphere to electromagnetic fields that, they say, stir either unease or a lift in mood.
What else is near Lake Kournas
The lake sits in the Apokoronas hinterland, within a short drive of the coast at Georgioupolis and of the hill villages behind it. The places below are listed by distance from the water.
- Kavros beach lies 3 km away, the stretch of coast the lake’s overflow drains into.
- Georgioupolis is the nearest resort town, 3.6 km from the lake.
- The church of Agios Nikolaos stands 4 km away at Georgioupoli.
- Kalivaki beach is 4.2 km away, on the Georgioupolis shore.
- Episkopi lies 5.2 km away, and Episkopi beach 6.1 km.
- Ancient Lappa is 7.3 km away, and the springs village of Argyroupolis is built on the same site.
- Kollita Gorges at Vilandredo are 9.2 km away, with Moundros Gorge 10.2 km out.
- Kefalas village stands 9.3 km from the lake.
- Profitis Ilias Monastery at Roustika is 10.3 km away.
- Ombros Gialos Bay lies 10.6 km away, a rocky diving cove in Apokoronas.
- Gavalohori village is 12 km from the lake.
Getting to Lake Kournas
Lake Kournas sits about 3 km inland from Georgioupolis and roughly 2.5 km from the coast, so the simplest way to reach it, and to combine it with the beaches at Kavros or a day between Chania and Rethymno, is to drive. Having your own vehicle lets you arrive in the calm late afternoon and move on to nearby villages afterwards, which is easiest with car rental in Crete.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Lake Kournas?
Lake Kournas lies about 3 km inland from Georgioupolis, in a valley between Chania and Rethymno. Chania is about 43 km to the west and Rethymno about 20 km to the east, and the sea is roughly 2.5 km away.
Can you swim in Lake Kournas?
Yes. The shallow, clear areas near the shore are the usual spots for a swim, and they are easiest to reach in summer when the water is lower.
Are there turtles at Lake Kournas?
Yes. The lake is home to terrapins, the freshwater turtles that visitors most often see near the shallows and the shoreline.
Can you walk around Lake Kournas?
In summer you can follow the shore, but in winter and spring the higher water and thick bank vegetation make the loop hard to complete.
How long does it take to walk around Lake Kournas?
The shore loop is about 3.5 km and takes under an hour in summer, once the water drops and the sandy shore appears.
Is Lake Kournas worth visiting?
For a calm half-day in nature, yes: it is Crete’s only natural freshwater lake, with pedal boats, a swimmable shore, wildlife and lakeside tavernas, all a short drive from Georgioupolis.
Location
Lake Kournas is located at Kournas Lake, Λίμνη Κουρνά, Georgioupoli, Crete 730 07, Greece, in the Chania region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
