Skaloti Gorge

The Kallikratis Canyon, a relatively small gorge located in the southeast of Lefka Ori (White Mountains) in the Sfakia province, forms part of the E4 European walking route. It serves as a passageway connecting the mountain pasture lands with the lowland villages of the Frangokastelo plain. A hike through this gorge offers a delightful walk and stunning views of the South Cretan Sea. The entrance to the canyon is situated at the Kallikratis plateau, accessible via a paved road from Askyfou, Asi Gonia, or Frangokastelo.

Kallikratis is home to the charming Panagia church, and from here, you can begin your descent through the gorge, which concludes in the village of Patsianos. From Kallikratis village, follow the asphalt road leading to Patsianos that runs parallel to the gorge bed. At certain points, you will need to follow the riverbed, which gradually deepens, with the road rising high above you. After about half an hour, the road will have risen considerably to the left, and the stream will be fairly deep. The trail has been slightly modified in some places due to debris from road construction.

The stunning Sykia gorge, which is actually the easternmost gorge in the province of Sfakia, is located north of Rodakino village. It’s a technical canyon, meaning that traversing it requires specialized equipment due to its over 10 steep descents or waterfalls, which are safeguarded by the speleological groups of Crete. The tallest rappel stands at around 12 meters high.

The Sykia stream combines with the untamed canyons of Rodakino (also known as Maglinara) and the longest gorge in the area, Karavos. The stream then flows under both the new and old bridges of Rodakino, finally reaching the picturesque Korakas beach. Canyon explorers typically leave the gorge just after the old bridge, while those up for a full-length trek will encounter another rappel. The narrowest part of Sykia, after it merges with the Rodakino Gorge, is truly breathtaking.

Speleological clubs have named the gorge Sykia, meaning sycamore-fig tree, due to the abundance of fig trees found along the route. However, its official name is Xepitira. Except for times following heavy rainfall, the gorge is typically dry.

In the heart of the Sfakia Province, nestled in the ruins of the village Kolokasia, a stream begins to form at the base of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) church. This stream, fed by the village’s water, meanders through the local olive grove before transforming into a rugged, small gorge known as Rechtas or Rektas – a name signifying ‘waterfall’ in the local dialect.

True to its name, shortly after the gorge’s onset, a breathtaking 20-meter high waterfall cascades down, barring further access to the gorge without the aid of a rope. Beyond this majestic waterfall, the gorge is adorned with awe-inspiring rock shelters and caves, once used by locals as animal paddocks.

The journey through the gorge also includes small waterfalls, a natural arch, and a grove of carob trees. Eventually, the canyon opens up, revealing an ancient trail that ascends up the eastern side, leading to a rock shelter. This shelter, perched high above the riverbed, provides stunning vistas of the gorge and the Fragokastello valley.

In recent years, this wild rock shelter has been transformed into a charming, cavernous temple, possibly the newest in Crete. This transformation was inspired by a priest from Sfakia, George Chiotakis, who received a divine vision from the Blessed Porphyrios of Athos, advising him to build a temple. Consequently, the church is unofficially dedicated to Saint Porphyrius, with his icons scattered throughout the temple, along with several icons of the revered Saint Anthimos from Cephalonia, who once resided in the Sfakia region.

The Kapni Gorge, one of Eastern Sfakia’s most stunning canyons, remains largely undiscovered. The gorge begins as an open stream south of the Akones peak at Hionistra, located on the road between Askyfou and Asfendou villages. It concludes in the village of Nomikiana in the Sfakia province. In Hionistra, two streams in calcareous soils converge to form the Kapni Gorge after an hour’s walk. The canyon is extensive, requiring around four hours to traverse. It is among Crete’s challenging and perilous trekking gorges, with a rugged riverbed that forms dry waterfalls in certain areas, necessitating climbing.

It is not advisable for those inexperienced in mountaineering. The riverbed features several small caves that were previously used as sheepfolds. In one of these caves, there is drinking water, the only source in the harsh Kapni region. This water source is hard to find unless one is very familiar with the area. Kapni is home to beautiful vegetation, including maples and oak trees, and stunning walls of platy limestone in several places.

The name Kapni, meaning smoke, traces back to a story from the Venetian era. East Sfakia was once densely forested, providing refuge for Cretans fighting the Venetians. To counter this, the Venetians burned these forests, including the one in Kapni, which was so dense that the fire burned for weeks. The narrowness of the gorge created an oven-like effect, trapping the fire and significantly raising the temperature. The intense heat baked the mountain rock, similar to a lime kiln, and smoke lingered for days after the fire ceased. That autumn, a massive flood swept through the bare, fire-scorched hillsides, moving rocks with immense force to the gorge’s exit. This event resulted in a large deposit of sediment, creating the most impressive scree (locally known as sara) in Crete, visible from miles away. This scree starts at the gorge’s exit and extends to the village of Nomikiana.