Kapsas beach

The quaint village of Kalami is situated 70 kilometers southeast from Agios Nikolaos and 34 kilometers east of Ierapetra, in close proximity to Goudouras. It’s an area abundant with serene, secluded coves which offer respite from crowded city centers, and are easily reached since the road runs adjacent to them.

The first beach you encounter is Kalami, aptly named after the Greek word for reeds, which can be found growing in the stream that trickles through the center of the beach. It’s a picturesque pebble beach, a sanctuary with its own fresh water spring. While the beach lacks tall trees, the rocks provide a natural canopy, offering shade throughout the day. To find the beach, look out for the chapel of Agii Saranda, as the beach lies directly beneath it. However, be aware that the path from the road to the beach can be challenging due to the surrounding high rocks, but it’s not impossible.

Adjacent to Kalami beach are several tiny, secluded coves. The first beach to the west is nestled at the mouth of a narrow ravine with cavernous walls. Named Atherina, this is one of the area’s most beautiful private beaches. A mere 100 meters to the east, another small bay faces westward.

Kalo Nero, a small village nestled in one of eastern Crete’s most rugged terrains, is situated near Kapsa Monastery, 68 km south of Agios Nikolaos and 33 km east of Ierapetra. This village is positioned at the exit point of a rocky canyon. You’ll find the Panagia church (1881) here, built by the Pervolakia village residents for their winter stay when they brought their livestock for grazing. This church was built over an older chapel from 1461, which belonged to Kapsa Monastery.

The village is home to numerous freshwater springs, hence its name Kalo Nero, meaning Good Water; quite unusual for such a dry region. This place offers three secluded beaches perfect for a quiet swim. The first beach, Koutsounari (not to be confused with the Koutsounari near Agios Ioannis), is accessible by a short trail. This isolated beach has pebbles and clear water, with large rocks scattered on the seabed in certain areas.

Staousa, the main beach, is separated from Koutsounari by a few rocks. It’s a beautiful spot with fine pebbles and turquoise waters, its highlight being a large cave on the east side that’s on the verge of collapse. Fresh water drips from the cave walls, and access to this beach is simplified by a concrete path with stairs built by locals.

The third beach, Angelou, primarily serves as a local boat harbour, safeguarded from southwesterly winds. It’s a serene spot with small pebbles and rocks on the seabed. The rugged mountainous backdrop perfectly complements the picturesque boats and the blue sea’s hues.

Just 150m west of Kalo Nero lies the small Lygidi settlement at the cape of the same name, surrounded by small olive groves. A narrow bay with a western orientation is formed at the exit of a small stream. This bay hosts the lesser-known rocky beach, Mikro Limanaki (Little Harbour), which is easily accessible but hidden from the main road’s view.

You can reach Kalo Nero from Makrigialos via the road leading to Goudouras. Alternatively, there is a bus service from Ierapetra to Goudouras; however, do check the bus timings.

Atherina beach, a hidden gem, is situated approximately 70 km southeast from Agios Nikolaos and 34 km east of Ierapetra, just before reaching the coastal village of Goudouras. To get there, you must follow the narrow, deep, and dry stream that drains from the Vigla region. This stream can be found about 300 meters past the Agii Saranda church in Kalami. Following it will lead you directly to the sea, providing easier access to the beach. Alternatively, there is a rough dirt road that ends just above the beach’s eastern edge.

Atherina is an exquisite secret cove, perfect for swimming. The landscape features a small canyon formed by rocks, accompanied by a large stone platform on its side. This secluded beach has pebbles and crystal clear blue waters that make swimming a surreal experience. Shadows are easily found by the sides of the small gorge’s conglomerate walls, providing a respite from the sun.

The surrounding sea area is dotted with natural salt pans, yielding ample sea salt that can be harvested with a spoon from the rocks. In the vicinity, you can explore and discover several other remote and tiny beaches.

Votsalaki, also known as Botzalaki, sits 71km southeast of Agios Nikolaos and 36km east of Ierapetra, at the west end of Goudouras in a region known as Aspra Chomata (translating to white grounds in Greek). It is nestled within the dry and rugged terrain of Eastern Crete, conveniently situated near the Gorge Asprolithos exit.

The beach of Votsalaki is one of the most stunning on Crete island. It boasts small pebbles and crystal clear waters. The sea’s color is enchanting, displaying shades of green, blue, and red due to the local soil. Despite its proximity to the main road, Votsalaki remains relatively secluded. The beach’s west end is a popular spot for naturists, as the surrounding cliffs provide a natural barrier from unwanted viewers.

To reach Votsalaki, drive east from Ierapetra along the main road towards Sitia, following the south coastline of Crete. After passing Makrigialos, take the road leading to Goudouras and stop 2.5km past Kapsa Monastery.

Another beach worth visiting is Thodori’s. If you travel towards Makrigialos from Votsalaki, you’ll come across a remote sandy beach scattered with pebbles, known as Thodoris Limani. The name likely comes from a former landowner named Thodoris. The beach is split into two adjacent coves. Unfortunately, there are no facilities or natural shade, so remember to bring an umbrella and water. Despite these minor inconveniences, the beach’s extraordinary sea colors, with green and pink hues, make it a must-visit spot.