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April 1996 marked the day I experienced my first Greek Easter, an introduction to the unique life in Crete. My father and I flew from Athens to Heraklion, where our friend picked us up from the airport. We ended the day in Moires, celebrating Easter dinner at his mother’s house. She and “Yiayia” (granny) had been cooking all day, preparing a feast of boiled lamb, kid/mutton in tomato sauce with strifta (local pasta), artichokes, koukouvagia (cretan rusk), dolmas, and the unforgettable kokoretsi (lamb delicacy).
After that incredible meal, we ventured to Matala the next day – a place that stole my heart. Back then, it was a quaint, not-so-crowded hippie village, now one of Crete’s most popular destinations. The memories made there, and in places like Agiofarago, Komos, and Agia Galini, have stayed with me to this day.
Two years ago, after countless trips to Crete (maybe 10-12), I was boarding a flight back home when the sunrise lit up my face. A deep sorrow washed over me, and I almost cried. At that moment, my heart told me I didn’t belong in Romania; Greece was my home. When I shared these feelings with my wife, she confessed she felt the same. Life in Romania no longer brought her joy. That conversation marked the beginning of our journey to a new life in Crete.
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One of the many reasons Crete is so extraordinary is its coastline, which stretches over 1,000 kilometers. The island offers diverse beaches, from the pink sands of Elafonisi and Falassarna beaches, to the exotic Balos Lagoon and the palm-fringed shores of Vai. On the less-developed southern coast, secluded coves and untouched beaches are accessible only by boat or foot.
While we love all of Crete, the high season can get overwhelming. Rethymno, with its balance of vibrancy and quiet charm, felt perfect for us. After living here for nine months, we’ve found the people in Rethymno to be particularly friendly – more so, in our experience, than those in Heraklion or Chania.
Moving came with concerns, particularly about adapting and managing finances, given Greece’s relatively low incomes. I began working with a villa rental company, while my wife launched an online business that allowed her to balance work with raising our son. Real estate here is a challenge – prices skyrocketed after the pandemic, making it hard to find long-term rentals or affordable homes.
Summer season is amazing here on Crete and stretches from just after Easter to early November. It’s like waking from hibernation into a season of endless possibilities.
Cretans are like one big family – welcoming and warm. They reserve judgment until they get to know you better, but once they do, you’re embraced as part of their clan. As the tourist season kicks off, the entire island shifts into a unified working rhythm, with locals bustling in hotels, shops, restaurants, and more.
I had the chance to explore Crete extensively, visiting some of its most stunning locations where owners were also developing new villas for rent. My personal favorite is the southern region of Rethymno, including Damnoni, Ammoudi, and Agios Pavlos.
Cretan cuisine is another highlight. The island’s fertile land has allowed locals to cultivate a distinct culinary style over centuries. Their diet revolves around seasonal greens, fruits, legumes, barley rusks, fish, and olive oil, with occasional lamb, pork, or escargot cooked in oil and thyme. One of the most iconic dishes is dakos, a crusty whole-grain bread reminiscent of bruschetta. While it’s sometimes served plain, it’s most commonly enjoyed as an appetizer topped with tomato purée and cheese, typically feta or mizithra.
Crete isn’t for everyone, though. If your idea of a vacation is limited to fancy hotels and trendy beach bars, you’ll find those here, but Crete’s soul lies in its old-school tavernas and uncrowded beaches. Its mix of Greek tradition, outstanding food, and warm people has made it better than we ever imagined.
Our son has started preschool (pedikos) here, and we’ve been amazed by the dedication of his teachers. Social life in Crete is vibrant; Cretans value storytelling, laughter, and sharing raki with friends. Village festivals (panigiria) in summer are unforgettable, with locals and tourists alike dancing traditional dances like Zeibekiko and Sirtaki.
Living in Crete has been a surprising and delightful experience. Each part of the island has its own energy – a harmony of history, culture, and natural beauty that feels like a symphony.
The Mediterranean climate keeps winters mild. Even in December, daytime temperatures hover around 17°C (62°F), and it rarely drops below 12°C (54°F) at night. As I write this in mid-December, the cities are alive with Christmas decorations and festive spirit just like any other big city, but without the snow.
Some locals take the opportunity to travel for Christmas or New Year, visiting Athens, Thessaloniki, or other destinations on the mainland. The seasonal treats, like melomakarona and kourabiedes, are absolutely delightful. What I appreciate most about this time of year is the absence of the frantic rush to stock up on food, drinks, and sweets, which was so common in Romania. Easter and Christmas there often felt overwhelming, leaving me wanting to escape or stay home.
Here, what we miss most are our parents – nothing else. There’s a constant sense in the air that summer is just around the corner, accompanied by a serene joy that defines this way of life in Crete (siga siga). Strolling through the streets, with the sea almost always in sight and the sun shining overhead, fills you with a deep sense of warmth and happiness.
Rethymno has its imperfections – graffiti, abandoned-looking places – but it radiates a rustic charm and laid-back vibe. It’s smaller and less touristy than Chania, and that suits us perfectly.
Every civilization has left its mark on the history of Crete, from the Minoan palaces and Classical temples to the Venetian fortresses. This is the island that gave rise to Europe’s first written languages, the Minoans’ Linear A and B. As for the myths, you’re likely familiar with the story of Theseus and the Minotaur (you can learn more at the Palace of Knossos), and it is said that Zeus was born in a cave here. It’s no surprise, then, that the king of the gods is also considered the patron of hospitality – perhaps his greatest legacy in shaping the way of life in Crete.
More than a destination, Crete is an experience – a story of history, gastronomy, nature, and humanity. In the words of the local writer Nikos Kazantzakis, “Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean sea.” Indeed, life in Crete epitomizes this sentiment in every conceivable way.
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