Gournia Fjord near Vathy beach

Vathi beach, Heraklion is located 1.1 km away.

Vathi, a breathtaking beach, lies 79km and 17km southwest of Heraklion and the Sivas village respectively. It’s located near Crete’s southernmost point, Cape Lithino, and well away from bustling cities, making it a perfect spot for those longing for ultimate serenity. The beach is nestled at the mouth of a petite gorge and enclosed by extensive cliffs. Its circular cove shields it from the open sea, rendering Vathi a natural sanctuary, with legends claiming it served as a pirate anchorage. The beach, well-protected, typically boasts calm waters, despite surrounding beaches often witnessing waves. Only southwest winds trigger storms in this region.

The gorge walls in the area are adorned with fascinating natural cavities, resulting from wind and salt erosion of the white limestone. The vicinity hosts a few makeshift huts, old campervans, and basic homes constructed by locals, primarily from the Gergeri village. These locals’ ancestors would bring their flocks to this warm location in the winter, and their descendants now enjoy their summers here.

The beach is predominantly sandy with sporadic stones. The shallow waters are bordered by numerous tamarisk trees providing shade. Nudity is prohibited here, respecting the area’s religious heritage (linked to the Odigitria Monastery).

To reach Vathi by car, drive along the paved road from Sivas village towards the Odigitria Monastery. From the monastery, take the first dirt track on your right, heading west towards Kefali Peak and up the untamed Cape Lithino. Continue for about 15km on the rough gravel road, following the signs to Vathi. Alternatively, if you’re without a car or prefer not to drive, consider hopping on an excursion boat to Vathi from Matala, Kokkinos Pirgos, or Agia Galini.

Red beach is located 2.7 km away.

Red Beach, known in Greek as Kokkini Ammos, is a red-sand beach on the south coast of Crete, about 800 metres south of Matala and 68 kilometres southwest of Heraklion. You reach it on foot over Kastri hill or by boat from Matala harbour. The rust-red sand comes from the local geology and sets off a blue-green sea, which is what makes the beach so striking.

The beach is remote and unorganised. It has no road access, so it stays quiet even in high season, and it is open to the western winds that blow across this part of the coast.

How to get to Red Beach

Most visitors walk from Matala on a marked trail that crosses Kastri hill north of the village. The walk takes about 15 to 25 minutes one way and involves some rock scrambling at the start and a steep descent near the end, so wear proper walking shoes rather than sandals. The route is clear but rough underfoot.

Follow these steps from Matala:

1. Start at the northern edge of the Matala settlement and pick up the marked trail toward Kastri hill.
2. Climb the rocks at the beginning of the route and keep following the signs uphill.
3. Cross the hill, where a viewpoint looks down over the coast and the beach below. This is a good spot for sunsets.
4. Pass through the shepherd’s gate and close it behind you so the goats do not escape.
5. Take the steep path down to the sand.

You can take a boat from Matala harbour for a small fee of around 5 euros each way if you would rather not hike. A car makes the wider Matala area much easier to reach, since the beach sits on the exposed south coast with no road nearby, so you can compare options for a hire car in Crete.

What the beach is like

Red Beach has very few facilities. There is a simple stone-wall coffee shop that opens occasionally for food and drinks, plus a small number of umbrellas that fill up quickly. The only natural shade comes from a few tamarisk trees near the canteen, so it is worth bringing your own mat, umbrella, water, and snacks.

You can swim here, but the beach faces the prevailing western winds and the sea is often wavy, so take care on windier days. The reward for the effort is a quiet bay with panoramic views, clear water, and wide sunset views over the sea.

History and the rock carvings

Red Beach was a favourite of hippies in the 1960s and 1970s, and enthusiasts have kept visiting ever since. The northern part of the beach is known as a nudist-friendly area and has an international reputation for it. The beach and its surroundings are protected under the Natura 2000 programme because of their ecological value.

At the northern end, a long limestone formation resembles the rock of Matala. It is decorated with carvings of Minoan and Egyptian sea figures made by Gerard, a Belgian admirer of Matala, and these sculptures have become part of the beach’s character.

Nature and the Kouroupi cave

Between Matala and Red Beach stands a large rock called Theosini, which gives wide views over Messara Bay. The sea has eroded it into a marine cave known as Kouroupi, reachable only by boat. The cave shelters endangered Mediterranean monk seals and several species of wild pigeon.

FAQ

How do I get to Red Beach in Crete?

Walk the marked trail from the northern edge of Matala over Kastri hill, which takes about 15 to 25 minutes and includes some rock scrambling and a steep final descent. Alternatively, take a boat from Matala harbour for around 5 euros each way.

Can you swim at Red Beach?

Yes, you can swim at Red Beach, but it faces the western winds and the sea is often wavy, so swim with care on windy days. Calmer conditions give clear blue-green water.

Is Red Beach worth visiting?

Red Beach rewards the short hike with rust-red sand, clear water, panoramic views, and quiet sunsets. Its limestone carvings and protected setting make it more than an ordinary swim stop.

Is Red Beach nudist-friendly?

Yes. The northern part of Red Beach is well known as a nudist-friendly area and has an international reputation for it.

Does Red Beach have facilities?

Facilities are minimal: an occasional stone-wall coffee shop and a few umbrellas. Bring your own mat, umbrella, water, and food, since the only natural shade comes from a few tamarisk trees.

Is Red Beach the pink-sand beach in Crete?

No. Red Beach has rust-red sand from the local rock, not pink sand. The pink-tinted sand Crete is famous for is at Elafonisi, in the southwest of the island.

Matala beach is located 3.6 km away.

The beach of Matala is situated 68km southwest of Heraklion, where the Messara plain and Asteroussia Mountains intersect. It is one of the most frequented tourist spots in Crete and the most well-known beach in the southern region of the Heraklion prefecture. Matala is notable for its rock-carved caves and its association with the hippie culture of the 1970s. It lies in close proximity to Phaestus, the second largest palace of the Minoan civilization, having once served as its port. During the era of the Romans, Matala transformed into a port for Gortyn.

Nestled at the end of a small valley, Matala overlooks an enclosed bay with a picturesque view of the Paximadia islands. The beach spans 300m and features beautiful sandy shores, fine gravel, and crystal-clear deep waters. However, parts of the seabed, particularly the central area, are quite rocky and waves are common due to frequent westerly winds. A large cave can be found on the northern part of the beach, from which some thrill-seekers dive.

Matala beach is well-equipped with amenities such as umbrellas, restrooms, showers, lifeguards, first aid facilities, beach volleyball courts, snack bars, water sports, excursion boats, and a camping site. The surrounding area of Matala offers a range of accommodation, dining, and entertainment options. The beach is largely shaded by tamarisk trees, providing a respite from the sun. Come evening, the beach bars are brimming with people, both locals and tourists. The internationally acclaimed Matala Festival draws large crowds every June.

Martsalo beach is located 3.9 km away.

Martsalo, a secluded beach located in the western Asterousia Range, is just a few kilometres from Cape Lithino, the “horn” of Messara Plain, and 80km southwest of Heraklion. To reach this isolated spot, follow the dirt road from Odigitria Monastery to Lithino Cape, bearing right after the monastery. After travelling some distance, a sign indicating Martsalo will appear. Following this rough track will lead you to the entrance of Martsalo Gorge.

Parking your car at the gorge’s entrance, continue on foot for roughly 2km to the south. The hike through the gorge is not particularly challenging. The gorge, along with others in the area (like Agiofarago), has served as a hermitage for the Odigitria monastery, giving it significant religious importance. Remnants of the cells where monks once lived can still be observed in the gorge.

At the start of your journey, you’ll discover the beautiful church of Panagia Martsaliani, dedicated to the Annunciation. This church, constructed within a cave, served as a catacomb during the Christian persecutions. Centuries later, it was rediscovered by a shepherd. An icon of the Annunciation uncovered at that time is now preserved in the Odigitria Monastery. On August 15, when the Church celebrates, numerous visitors travel from the Mesara Plain to Martsalo.

As you continue down the gorge, you’ll pass between the indigenous Phoenix Theophrasti palm trees. Martsalo is home to one of the largest colonies of this species in Crete, and the largest in the Heraklion prefecture. In the gorge’s center, a stone container collects water from a nearby spring, and around it, the hermits cultivate their necessities.

A 15-20 minute walk through the palm trees will lead you to the beach at the mouth of Martsalo. This isolated beach with its large pebbles and calm waters (Martsalo translates to Good Harbor in Latin) is an ideal spot for solitude. A simple pier serves boats coming from Kali Limenes or Matala, and surrounding tamarisk trees provide natural shade. As a religious site, it’s important to respect the hermits and refrain from activities such as nudism.

Traces of a harbour hamlet from 1800-1600BC suggest the beach has served as a port since the Minoan period. The Apostle Paul also reportedly stopped at Martsalo to preach Christianity during his journey to Rome.

Cape Lithino, the southernmost point of Crete and the “corner” of Messara plain, is home to the dry Kefali peak. From here, cliffs plunge 391m into the sea. The view is breathtaking. To reach Kefali, follow the 13km long rough dirt road starting from Odigitria Monastery and heading west. On Kefali, you’ll find the ruins of a German military establishment from World War 2 and a small stone church dedicated to the Holy Cross.

Locals may tell you there are no beaches between Martsalo and Vathi, but this isn’t true. Below Kefali is a small cape called Platys Poros or Trahili, home to two bays with deep blue water and coarse pebbles, known as “Maragou Limani” or “Carpenter’s Harbor”. These southernmost beaches of Crete are only accessible by boat, and the surrounding coast is riddled with caves worth exploring.

Just west of Martsalo beach and 600m east of Poros is the small beach of Kounenos, accessible via a footpath near Martsalo. The surrounding landscape, filled with caves, cliffs, and unique rock formations, makes this an ideal spot for nature lovers. The beach features small pebbles and deep waters.