Stena beach

Kali Limenes, also known as Good Ports, is a seaside village in the Asterousia Mountains, situated 75km southwest of Heraklion. It’s one of the few coastal regions of Asterousia accessible via asphalt road. Reaching this place requires a drive from Pompia village, through Messara Plane, and onto Pigaidakia village. Despite the road being narrow and loaded with sharp turns, the journey is worthwhile. An alternative dirt road from the Monastery of Odigitria, also leading to Kali Limenes, can be paired with a beach visit to Agiofarago.

Upon arrival, you can’t miss the oil tanks of SEKA stationed on the island Mikronisi, locally known as “Apostle Paul”. Kali Limenes is a lesser-known spot for Greeks, but the Vardinoyannis family, one of Europe’s wealthiest, is well-known. They began their empire in 1961 with these tanks, serving as a refuelling station for ships crossing the Mediterranean and the Suez Canal. Despite the visual pollution these facilities bring, the sea remains pristine.

Ignoring the unsightly tanks, the stunning beaches of Kali Limenes will undoubtedly captivate you. Suitable for year-round swimming, the sea, true to its name Fair Harbors, remains calm most of the year, except in winter. The calmness was a factor in the placement of the tanks. Weekends bring crowds to these beaches, undeterred by the challenging journey through Asterousia.

Maria Ammos, or Long Sandy Beach, is the first beach you’ll encounter coming from Pigaidakia. It’s a lengthy beach with greyish pebbles and deep waters. As you move east, the coast grows increasingly tranquil. Maria Ammos is a popular spot for nudists, and campers are drawn to the shade-providing tamarisk trees lining the coast. The beach may not be well-organized, but you’ll find a few eateries and hotels to the west.

Kali Limenes village, west of Makria Ammos, is nestled amidst lush olive groves. A quaint bay and harbour grace the village’s front, along with the child-friendly Psili Ammos, or Fine Sandy Beach. This beach, the busiest in the area, is lined with restaurants, a mini market, and rented rooms.

The hill west of Kali Limenes houses the chapel of St. Paul. It was built in 1700 in honor of the Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew’s visit in 1992 and 2008. You can also explore a nearby cave, believed to have housed Apostle Paul for two years. The gorgeous beach of Stena is also worth a visit.

East of Kali Limenes, a road leading to Chrysostomos will bring you to Karavovrysi beach after a 2km journey and a short walk. It’s a stunning beach with coarse sand and calm water. But be ready to bring your own shade as there are no trees.

Agiofarago Beach, is a picturesque beach situated about 80km south of Heraklion city. To get there, you can opt for a 25-50 minute scenic trek through the Agiofarago Gorge or a boat ride from Matala, Agia Galini, Kokkinos Pirgos, or Kali Limenes. If you decide to trek through the gorge, you’ll enjoy a beautiful journey surrounded by towering walls. On your way, you will pass large caves inhabited by hermits from the nearby Odigitria Monastery and the charming St. Anthony’s chapel with its small brackish water well.

The end of the gorge route will bring you to the stunning Agiofarago Beach, where clear blue waters and fine pebbles are framed by towering cliffs. A unique rock formation to the west creates an enchanting swimming spot. However, it’s worth noting that due to the area’s religious significance in Crete, naturism is discouraged.

For those seeking an adventure in the afternoon, sturdy footwear is recommended to climb the eastern cliffs for an awe-inspiring view. A short walk to the southeast will reveal Vourvoulitis, a hidden saltwater lake surrounded by steep cliffs, linked to the sea via an underwater passage. Be careful, as the descent to the lake can be perilous.

To reach Agiofarago Beach from Heraklion, drive towards Sivas village and then to the Odigitria Monastery. From Odigitria, follow the dirt road leading to St. Anthony’s Church. After about 4km, turn right at the Agiofarago sign and continue until you reach a small plateau that serves as a parking area. However, avoid parking under trees to prevent goats from damaging your car while they’re trying to eat the tree leaves. A 30-minute walk through the gorge will then lead you to the stunning beach. Along the way, you’ll pass St. Anthony’s small church and Goumenospilios cave. For those arriving by boat, the rocky islet of Papadoplaka, located opposite Agiofarago and known for its small sea salt ponds harvested by locals, is worth a visit.

Martsalo, a secluded beach located in the western Asterousia Range, is just a few kilometres from Cape Lithino, the “horn” of Messara Plain, and 80km southwest of Heraklion. To reach this isolated spot, follow the dirt road from Odigitria Monastery to Lithino Cape, bearing right after the monastery. After travelling some distance, a sign indicating Martsalo will appear. Following this rough track will lead you to the entrance of Martsalo Gorge.

Parking your car at the gorge’s entrance, continue on foot for roughly 2km to the south. The hike through the gorge is not particularly challenging. The gorge, along with others in the area (like Agiofarago), has served as a hermitage for the Odigitria monastery, giving it significant religious importance. Remnants of the cells where monks once lived can still be observed in the gorge.

At the start of your journey, you’ll discover the beautiful church of Panagia Martsaliani, dedicated to the Annunciation. This church, constructed within a cave, served as a catacomb during the Christian persecutions. Centuries later, it was rediscovered by a shepherd. An icon of the Annunciation uncovered at that time is now preserved in the Odigitria Monastery. On August 15, when the Church celebrates, numerous visitors travel from the Mesara Plain to Martsalo.

As you continue down the gorge, you’ll pass between the indigenous Phoenix Theophrasti palm trees. Martsalo is home to one of the largest colonies of this species in Crete, and the largest in the Heraklion prefecture. In the gorge’s center, a stone container collects water from a nearby spring, and around it, the hermits cultivate their necessities.

A 15-20 minute walk through the palm trees will lead you to the beach at the mouth of Martsalo. This isolated beach with its large pebbles and calm waters (Martsalo translates to Good Harbor in Latin) is an ideal spot for solitude. A simple pier serves boats coming from Kali Limenes or Matala, and surrounding tamarisk trees provide natural shade. As a religious site, it’s important to respect the hermits and refrain from activities such as nudism.

Traces of a harbour hamlet from 1800-1600BC suggest the beach has served as a port since the Minoan period. The Apostle Paul also reportedly stopped at Martsalo to preach Christianity during his journey to Rome.

Cape Lithino, the southernmost point of Crete and the “corner” of Messara plain, is home to the dry Kefali peak. From here, cliffs plunge 391m into the sea. The view is breathtaking. To reach Kefali, follow the 13km long rough dirt road starting from Odigitria Monastery and heading west. On Kefali, you’ll find the ruins of a German military establishment from World War 2 and a small stone church dedicated to the Holy Cross.

Locals may tell you there are no beaches between Martsalo and Vathi, but this isn’t true. Below Kefali is a small cape called Platys Poros or Trahili, home to two bays with deep blue water and coarse pebbles, known as “Maragou Limani” or “Carpenter’s Harbor”. These southernmost beaches of Crete are only accessible by boat, and the surrounding coast is riddled with caves worth exploring.

Just west of Martsalo beach and 600m east of Poros is the small beach of Kounenos, accessible via a footpath near Martsalo. The surrounding landscape, filled with caves, cliffs, and unique rock formations, makes this an ideal spot for nature lovers. The beach features small pebbles and deep waters.

Chrisostomos, a quaint seaside hamlet, is situated 75km to the south of Heraklion and 3km to the east of Kali Limenes. This small community features a few local taverns, a mini market, and available lodging. It takes its name from the decaying church of Saint John Chrisostomos located on the eastern side of the settlement. Chrisostomos is established on the ancient city of Lassea’s site, which Saint Paul visited during his time on Crete. Lassea served as a port for the Roman city Gortys, the then capital of Crete and Libya in the Roman era, and was rich in copper resources.

Chrisostomos (Lassea) beach, in front of the village, is a picturesque spot featuring coarse sand and shelter from westerly winds. It’s not commercialized, but is conveniently close to the village. On the beach’s western edge, a rocky outcrop extends towards the small islet of Trafos, marking the ancient port of Lassea’s old pier. These rocks have been there since the 1960s, when they were used to construct the Oil Tanks of Kali Limenes. The ancient town of Lasea’s remnants are still visible on the beach and the islet. The beach extends beyond Trafos to the west, forming a separate beach known as Segrezo Ryaki that faces westward. This beach is proximate to a Roman cemetery and is secluded, ideal for nudists, but has more rocks than the main beach. At the westernmost point, there’s a freshwater spring.

To get here from Kali Limenes, take the paved road that begins 1km east of Kali Limenes and head east towards Platia Peramata. After about 2km, you will encounter the village of Chrysostomos on your right.