Agriomandra beach

Pachia Ammos is a large village situated on the north side of the narrowest part of Crete, 20km east of Agios Nikolaos, on the road connecting Agios Nikolaos with Sitia and Ierapetra. The village is located at the exit of a fertile plain that is covered with olive groves. It has experienced mild development due to its local beach and the sights of the surrounding area. Visitors can find small hotels, rooms, and taverns in the village.

A long beach with sand and pebbles stretches in front of Pahia Ammos, 500m to the east. The beach is open to the north winds, and the sea is usually wavy. However, visitors can stay safe in the well-protected west part of the beach, which is sandy and clean and has umbrellas and sunbeds. For those seeking peace, the eastern part of the beach is an option, but it is unprotected from the waves, and currents carrying garbage due to the village’s location in the southern part of the Gulf of Mirabello. The beach in this area is pebbly and has several tamarisk trees. At the east end of the beach, a stream flows from the impressive Gorge of Ha in winter.

Pahia Ammos is situated on the site of the ancient city Minoa, which was an old harbour. The Institute for the Study of Prehistoric Aegean of East Crete is established here, which conducts systematic excavations in the area and deals with the promotion and protection of antiquities. The most famous archaeological site in the region is the Minoan cemetery and the settlement of Gournia, which is located 2km west of the village. The city flourished in 1600 BC and was built on a small hill. Gournia is located 2km east of Faneromeni Monastery, one of the most impressive monasteries in Crete built on a steep cliff.

Visitors can also visit the Minoan settlement Vasiliki, which is 4km south of the village and flourished in 2600-2300 BC. Vasiliki is considered the precursor of the major Minoan palaces and towns. From Vasiliki, visitors can drive 2km to the east to reach the village of Monastiraki, with the old watermills and the church of St. Stephen. Nearby is the exit of the imposing gorge of Ha, which causes awe from miles away.

Opposite Pahia Ammos you’ll see the small island Konida (i.e. nit, the egg of louse), which can be reached by boat. It is interesting to see how the place’s name has emerged; a few miles to the east (opposite Tholos) you’ll meet the very important island Psira (i.e. louse), while opposite Mochlos you’ll see the islet of Agios Nikolaos, also called Psilos (flea). All bugs together!

Tholos, situated 26km to the east of Agios Nikolaos and 4km north of Kavoussi village, can also be referred to as Kavoussi beach. Nestled at the end of a fertile valley and framed by ancient olive groves and vineyards, the region has only seen minor touristic development, making it an ideal spot for a tranquil holiday. Tholos beach, with its combination of pebbly and sandy terrain on the west side and a small harbour, is surrounded by tamarisk trees that offer much-needed shade. Nearby, there are accommodations and taverns. The water at the beach, usually hazy and light blue, is the result of underwater springs from the Thripti mountain massif mixing with salt water.

Legameni Cape beaches
A stone’s throw away to the north of Tholos’ small harbour, two pebbly beaches have formed where two dry streams meet. These beaches, known as Legameni, owe their name to the local cape. It’s fascinating to observe aquatic plants growing out from the rocky sea bed, indicating the presence of fresh water underground. Both beaches provide stunning views of Malavra’s wild cliffs to the east of Tholos beach.

Malavra beach
If you travel 2km east from Tholos, you’ll discover the isolated beach of Malavra, encircled by towering cliffs. Accessible only by boat and typically impacted by northern winds, this beach until recently could be reached by foot from the nearby freshwater spring station at Malavra, via a dirt track from Tholos beach. However, a gate has now been installed to restrict access.

Surroundings and Sightseeing
Kavoussi, one of Crete’s lesser-known but intriguing regions, boasts a wealth of archaeological sites, natural wonders, and traditional villages. Directly opposite Tholos sits Psira Island, a significant Minoan harbour. You can visit Psira by boat from nearby Mochlos and explore its extensive Minoan settlement. The island’s most significant artefact, a carved mural, now resides in the Archaeological Museum of Heraklion.

To the west of Tholos, you’ll find the old frescoed chapel of St. Anthony. A stroll to Kavoussi will lead you to the village square, where you can explore the Venetian church of St. George, a beautiful example of Byzantine architecture, and the Temple of the Twelve Apostles at Ligaras.

The archaeological site of Azorias, just 2km east of Kavoussi, is home to one of the most awe-inspiring natural monuments on Crete – an olive tree over 3500 years old and the oldest surviving in the world. This tree, a protected monument, was used to crown the first winner of the Women’s Marathon at the 2004 Athens Olympic Games. A short 2km journey south of the monumental olive tree will take you to the canyons of Mesonas and Havgas, some of the wildest in East Crete.

In addition to these, it’s worth visiting the Minoan settlements at Vrondas and Kastro, the ancient copper workshop from the Minoan period at Chrysokamino, and the nearby cave of Theriospilios, known for its unique decor. East of Theriospilios, you’ll find the Minoan settlement of Chylopites.

Kamini, situated near the renowned Minoan settlement of Gournia by Pahia Ammos, is an enchanting location composed of five sequential pebble beaches. Positioned north of the archaeological site, Kamini was most likely Gournia’s access point to the sea, explaining the presence of Minoan structures in the area, such as remnants of rooms, walls, and ship sheds or boathouses. The Gournia necropolis is also found in this area.

Kamini’s natural allure is as significant as its archaeological value. The coastline, adorned with limestone conglomerates and strikingly red soil, presents a stunning display of colors. The area boasts intriguing geological formations, sea caves, rock bridges, and five beaches speckled with fine or coarse pebbles. However, some of these beaches can be difficult to access.

Regrettably, the north winds often bring a disheartening amount of trash from across the Aegean Sea, littering the otherwise pristine landscape. This, coupled with the strong winds, tends to deter visitors. However, when the winds shift to the south, Kamini’s true splendor emerges, with turquoise and crystal-clear waters that truly are a sight to behold.

Gournia, situated 17km east of Agios Nikolaos and just 2km west of Pachia Ammos, is renowned for its ancient Minoan town, built atop a small hill. Named after the stone and wooden troughs (‘urna’ in Venetian) found in the vicinity, the original Minoan name of the town remains a mystery.

Nearby, a brief 1km journey north of the archaeological site of Gournia, lies the secluded Frouzis beach. Accessible by car, it sits nestled within a rocky bay, featuring pebbly shores and zero commercial facilities. While the broader area boasts beautiful sea caves and natural rock pools, the beach tends to accumulate litter carried by sea currents. This is also the case for the neighbouring beach, which houses an abandoned camping site.

One of Crete’s most breathtaking natural pools is found near Gournia. This serene rock-bound pond offers an inviting swim, especially when the nearby sea is choppy. The vast cave next to it also provides a fascinating sight.

A trip to Gournia would not be complete without exploring the archaeological site to understand the layout of a small Minoan city. Having thrived in 1500BC, the city has been thoroughly excavated, revealing well-preserved walls, staircases, and streets. The city, centered around a hill housing a small palace, a market, and a temple, appears to have been destroyed by an earthquake around 1450BC, and it was completely abandoned by 1200BC. The Gournia cemetery was discovered in the Sfougaras region, near Kamini.