Ancient Elyros
Elyros is an archaeological site in the mountains behind the south coast of the Chania region, and it was the leading city of southwestern Crete for more than a thousand years. The city controlled two harbours on the coast below, minted its own coins and traded in weapons. The hilltop has never been excavated on a large scale, so what a visitor walks over is a scatter of cisterns, wall lines, a theatre and a later Turkish tower.
Where Elyros is and what it was
Elyros was the most significant town in southwestern Crete during the Doric and Roman periods, from the 8th century BC to the 4th century AD. The ruins are preserved 500 metres from the village of Rodovani, on top of the hill Kefala, and look out over the south Cretan sea. The town was served by two harbours, Syia, which is now Sougia, and Lissos. An inscription carrying the Greek phrase “Glory to the people of Elyros” verified the exact location of the town.
Both of those harbours can still be visited. Syia is the modern village of Sougia, 4.6 km from the site, and the ruins of Ancient Lissos lie 5.6 km away in a valley reached on foot or by boat.
The gods the Elyrians worshipped
The Elyrians worshipped the god Apollo, the nymph Acacallis, also written Akakalida, and their twin sons Filandros and Fylakidis. Tradition holds that Apollo fled to Tarra, now Agia Roumeli, after killing Python, and there he mated with the nymph Acacallis. Acacallis gave birth to the twin sons Fylakidis and Filandros, who were nursed by a goat. The Elyrians once sent a bronze goat suckling two infants to the oracle of Delphi for that reason.
Weapons, coins and a poet
Elyros was an industrial and commercial centre of Crete, and it was known for producing weaponry. The city minted its own currency, which is a measure of its power. The coins depict a goat nursing the sons of Acacallis, and a bee. By one account the lyric poet Thalitas, of the 7th century BC, came from Elyros.
Roman, Byzantine and the end of the city
After the occupation of Crete by the Romans, the town carried on through the Byzantine period, when it also housed a Diocese. The Saracens destroyed it later. The Statue of the Philosopher is the most widely known Roman find from the site, and it is exhibited today at the Archaeological Museum of Chania. The statue was found on the site of an early Christian basilica, the floor of which is preserved.
What you can see on the site
The archaeological site of Elyros holds large cisterns, traces of buildings, a Roman aqueduct, part of the walls, a theatre and a Turkish koules, which is a defensive tower. The cemetery of the town extends around the settlement. A pyramid-shaped Greco-Roman tomb survives in a neighbouring position near the village of Moni, and it can still be visited.
Things to do around Elyros
Five places lie within 8 km of the hill, listed nearest first.
- Drive down to Sougia, 4.6 km away, which was the ancient harbour of Syia.
- Swim at Sougia beach, 5 km from the site on the south coast.
- Walk the Agia Irini Gorge, which runs 5.5 km from Elyros down towards the same coast.
- Visit Ancient Lissos, 5.6 km away, the second harbour town and the site of an Asclepieion.
- Continue to Lissos beach, 5.8 km from the site and reached on foot from Sougia.
Gorges near Elyros
The hill sits among some of the deepest gorge country in Crete, and four routes start within 10 km of it.
- Agia Irini Gorge begins 5.5 km away and finishes near Sougia.
- Fygou Gorge lies 6 km from the site.
- Kandanos Gorge is 7.9 km west, behind the village of the same name.
- Tripiti Gorge runs 9.6 km away and reaches the coast at its own beach.
- Samaria Gorge and Klados Gorge both lie further east in the White Mountains.
Getting to Elyros
Park in Rodovani and walk the last 500 metres up Kefala hill, because the site has no road to its summit. The village sits on the mountain road that links Chania with Sougia, so most visitors arrive by car on the way to or from the south coast. Buses serve Sougia rather than the ruins.
The same road makes a longer day out possible along the southwest coast. Paleochora lies west of the site with its own list of things to do, and Domata beach can be reached from the coastal boat that runs between the villages.
Frequently asked questions
Where is ancient Elyros?
Ancient Elyros stands on the hill of Kefala, 500 metres from the village of Rodovani in the Chania region. The hilltop looks out over the south Cretan sea, and Sougia is 4.6 km away on the coast below.
How old is Elyros?
Elyros was the leading town of southwestern Crete from the 8th century BC to the 4th century AD. It carried on through the Byzantine period as the seat of a Diocese and was destroyed by the Saracens.
What are the harbours of Elyros?
Elyros was served by two harbours, Syia and Lissos. Syia is today the village of Sougia, and Lissos is an archaeological site of its own 5.6 km from the city.
What can you see at Elyros today?
The visible remains are large cisterns, traces of buildings, a Roman aqueduct, part of the city walls, a theatre and a Turkish koules. The cemetery ran around the town, and a pyramid-shaped Greco-Roman tomb survives near the village of Moni.
Where is the Statue of the Philosopher from Elyros?
The Statue of the Philosopher is on display at the Archaeological Museum of Chania. It was found on the site of an early Christian basilica at Elyros, and the floor of that basilica is still preserved.
Location
Ancient Elyros is located at Ancient Elyros, in the Chania region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
