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Aptera is a highly significant archaeological site in West Crete. Established in the 8th century BC, the ancient city of Aptera was strategically located to control Souda Bay and prospered during the Hellenistic period. However, it was abandoned during the Arab years due to pirate attacks. The city relied on the ports of Marathi and Kalives, which made Aptera one of Crete’s most important commercial centers, if not the most important one.Tradition has it that the city was named after the Sirens who lost their wings in a musical contest against the muses, rendering them wingless (aptera in Greek). However, it seems that the name actually comes from Aptera Artemis (wingless Artemis), who was worshipped in the area, as evidenced by the city’s coins.Aptera was fortified with a strong wall, of which a large part (4km) still stands today. Within the city, one can find a sanctuary from the 5th-4th century BC, enormous Roman vaulted cisterns, a carved-in-ground theater, a “parliament,” and a nearby necropolis. Various artifacts have been discovered, including vases, coins, figurines, inscriptions, and sculptures.The city of Aptera was renowned for its skilled archers who served as mercenaries in various areas outside Crete, bringing wealth back to their homeland. The valuable silver they introduced enabled the city to mint its own coins. These intricate coins typically featured the goddess Artemis on one side and the city’s founder King Apteras on the other. Other designs depicted Apollo or Hera and a torch, bee, or bow.
Cave of Zeus is a legendary sanctuary where, according to mythology, the Titaness Rhea hid her son Zeus to protect him from his father Cronus, who had a grim habit of devouring his children. It also serves as the backdrop for the mythological tale of Zeus and Princess Europa. Nestled on the rugged northern slopes of Mount Dikti, at an elevation of 1,025 meters near the village of Psychro, the cave – often referred to as the Dikteon Cave or Psychro Cave – is one of Crete’s most visited archaeological and mythological sites.
Zakros, situated in a secluded area of eastern Crete, 45km southeast of Sitia, was a significant port and administrative center for Eastern Crete during the Minoan Age due to its faster communication with the Middle East. Numerous findings, including gold sheets, ivory, jewelry, and pottery, highlight the city’s close ties with the ports of Cyprus, Egypt, and the Middle East.
The Palace of Phaistos has its ruins situated 58km south of Heraklion, at the end of the Mesara plain in Central Southern Crete. The palace of Phaistos was constructed on a low hill in the Messara plain, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding area. It is the second-largest Minoan palace after Knossos, covering an area of 1.8 hectares.Inhabited since 6000 BC, the city prospered alongside Knossos until the 1st century BC. Phaestus is renowned for its Minoan palace, an accessible archaeological site that attracts thousands of visitors annually. Built around 2000 BC, legend has it that Minos, the king of Knossos, was responsible for its construction. The palace’s king was Minos’ brother, the mythical Rhadamanthys, the second son of Zeus and Europa, known for his fairness. He is credited with writing the Cretan Code, the first standards of Justice, later adopted by the Spartans. Due to his fairness, he was appointed as a judge in Hades after his death, just like his brother Minos.An earthquake destroyed the palace around 1700 BC, but it was promptly rebuilt. Phaestus then declined, and the nearby settlement of Agia Triada flourished, which can still be visited today. Phaestus remained southern Crete’s most important religious center. After the 1450 BC destruction (possibly due to an earthquake), Phaestus recovered and minted its own currency. This resurgence lasted until the first century BC when neighboring Gortyn destroyed it, later becoming the new capital of Crete during Roman times.The structures visitors see today in Phaestus date back to 1700-4150 BC and, unlike Knossos, have not been restored with cement. Excavations began in 1900 by the Italian Archaeological School, led by Federico Halbherr and Luigi Pernier, while Doro Levi conducted them from 1950-71.
Perched atop the rocky hill of Prophet Elijah (Profitis Ilias) near Smari, at an elevation of 590 meters, lie the remnants of a fortress surrounded by a robust defensive wall. This location offers sweeping views over the fertile plains of Kasteli and Smari. Archaeologist Hadji-Vallianou believes this fortress to be the site of ancient Lyttos mentioned by Homer. The city was continuously inhabited from 1800 BC to 630 BC before being deserted by its residents.Inside the city walls, three oblong structures can be found, and a sanctuary of Athena Ergani was identified on the northern side, confirmed by ceramic plates depicting the goddess Athena. These plates are considered the oldest representations of Athena in Crete. A settlement was constructed around the peak, enclosed within a secondary wall. A stone-paved street connects the village to the citadel. Large buildings, likely used as warehouses and workshops, were located outside the second wall.The terraces outside the citadel are also fascinating, as they demonstrate how the city’s inhabitants managed to preserve the minimal soil in the area and cultivate wheat. Furthermore, the city’s development in such a rugged and rocky location would not have been possible without the presence of the water spring now found inside the Prophet Elijah church, situated just a few meters below the peak.
The archaeological site of Trypitos can be found on a small peninsula, 3km east of Sitia, close to the beach Karavopetra, which boasts a breathtaking view of Sitia city and its port. It is believed to be the ancient city of Sitia, Itia, which was initially one of the ports of Praesus. The city thrived during the Hellenistic period (350BC – 50BC).In 1967, a shipshed (a building used for storing vessels) was discovered in a trench measuring 30m in length, 5.5m in width, and 5m in height. Due to this cavity, the site was given the name Trypitos (meaning hollow in Greek).Archaeologist Nikolaos Papadakis began the first extensive excavations in 1987, and they are still ongoing. The city extends across the entire peninsula, with a strong wall protecting its southern side. Inside the walls, there were houses, public buildings, and streets. Numerous pottery works, jewelry, and coins from the city have been found in the area. In fact, while exploring the antiquities, you will come across many potsherds.
Near the fortress and the temple of Saint Cathreen (Agia Ekaterini), overlooking Loutro, traces of walls and buildings have been identified, belonging to the ancient town Anopolis, port of which was Katopolis or Phoenix, the ruins of which can be seen today west of Loutro. Anopolis was an independent town and had its own currency.
Its rival in the region was Araden (today Aradena), from which it was occupied in the 3rd century BC. This was probably the reason for the construction of the city wall that still stands today at the position Riza. A large cistern, the base of a large building (probably a sanctuary) and box-shaped tombs have also been identified.
During the Byzantine period, it was still well flourishing, which is indicated by the many churches of the area. Later, during the Ottoman Era, Anopolis and the entire province of Sfakia, due to the intense mountainous terrain, was never actually inhabited by the Ottomans.
The thin yet often wavy stretch of sea dividing the islands of Koufonissi from the opposite coasts of Crete did not hinder the continuous presence of humans in ancient times. The ancient name Lefki (meaning white) was inspired by the shimmer of white limestone and marl in the sunlight.Koufonissi was an economic and cultural center from the Minoan until the Greco-Roman Times and was claimed by all major cities of the region. As recorded on the inscription of the Magnites, currently embedded on the facade of the Toplou monastery church, there was a significant dispute between Itanos and Ierapytna about the island. In 132 AD, the island was owned by Itanos.The history of the islands is closely tied to sponge fishing and processing of Tyrian purple, the red dye used by Ancients and Byzantines, which was extracted from the gastropod Murex brandaris. According to Aristotle and Pliny, live shells were collected in early autumn or winter and were then put in pots until many of them were gathered since each shell produced just one drop of dye. After that, the smaller shells were broken with stones. The larger mollusks were pierced and then a small gland called “flower” was extracted. Then, they put the milky liquid in salt, added a little vinegar, and left this in the sunlight. Its color turned red from yellow and was then diluted or condensed with boiling. The dye, the Tyrian purple, was sold at that time as it weighed in silver. If they added hyacinth blooms, the color was violet, but it was considered of inferior quality.In 1976, excavations began on the island, uncovering remarkable findings. On the northwest edge of the island, at Anemertia, opposite the Marmara islet, and a short distance from the beach, the excavations revealed a well-preserved stone theater. The auditorium was damaged only on its west side, while a significant part of the central seats has completely disappeared. The auditorium has twelve rows of seats and a maximum length of 34 m. The distance of the twelfth row to the orchestra floor reaches 6 m. It is estimated that the auditorium could accommodate about 1000 people.The orchestra, almost chamber, was paved with clay tiles. The stage, completely corrupt in its western part, should have a length of 20m while the width is estimated at about 9m. At the eastern end, one can make out the paraskenion, the pulpitum or stage, the hyposkenion, and also the east parados which was vaulted. The theater had rich decoration, which was vandalized. The theater was destroyed and burned with ferocity at the end of the 4th century.East and south of the theater, the excavations revealed a settlement that seems to have been destroyed, such as the theater. Excavations have unearthed a large house or villa of which 8 proper rooms still exist. One enters through a small but impressive porch (propylon) facing the road which leads to the east parados of the theater. The kitchens were identified and also the household workshop for the preparation of purple dye. Two formal rooms for entertaining were found with mosaic floors of black and white geometrical designs (based on the rhombus and the cross) framed by a surround. In the main part of the settlement, other houses have been excavated; 16 rooms have been cleared – probably houses of fishermen since installations for the preparation of purple dye were found and also fishing equipment such as hooks and lead weights for nets.The most important building of the settlement – following the theater – is the imposing building of the Public Baths (Balinea), which was in use from the 1st to the 4th AD century. The pathological love that Romans had for the public baths, combining physical cleaning with training and discussing, is well known. The Baths building was necessary not only in cities but also in small dorps. In rich houses, there was a separate area, a miniature of the public Baths (Balinea), while the imperial Baths (Thermae) were famous for their luxury.The Bath complex of Koufonisi includes all the spaces that followed the standards of the Roman Baths: Around a garden, there are rooms such as that for the central heating system (whose walls are preserved at a height of 4 m), two hypocausts (perhaps for men and women separately), baths for sweating, warm, hot and cold bath, and changing rooms. Luxury is still visible in some rooms, in the preserved parts of the marble floor and walls. A large number of vaulted tanks with pipelines is impressive. They were used to bring water from the springs located north of the Temple to the other side of the island.In the south part of the island, a temple was found, which unfortunately has suffered from predatory looting from the authorities (in 1920) to build a huge lighthouse, only 5m from the eastern short side of the temple where the entrance would have been, even though another stepped entrance was found on the north side. The overall dimensions of the temple were 18m x 15,7m with a crepidoma, while next to the north-west corner two large pieces of the colossal cult statue of the temple seen were found. This represented a deity enthroned on a cube-shaped seat. The fragments found are: a part of the seat with the left side of the pelvis, and the right leg from the draped or folded waist of the garment down to the ankle. Unfortunately, it is very damaged, but it appears to be of the Hellenistic period, and the height of the whole statue must have been over 2,50m.The rest of the statue, however incredible it may seem, must have been broken up by the workmen and used as building material for the lighthouse (which was bombed in 1944). Here the lumps of marble can be seen wedged among the other stones, also the huge symmetrical blocks which were uprooted from the temple of which only the steps and the filling remain – even the flooring has disappeared. As if all this were not enough, in more recent years, a metal automatic lighthouse pylon (now removed) had been set up over the floor of the temple, placed perhaps, who knows, by the ironical hand of fate right where the colossal statue of the deity, worshipped by the people of Lefki, used to stand in all its splendor.
Agios Thomas (Saint Thomas) is one of the most impressive mountain villages of Crete, mainly due to the easily carvable rocks in the region. The area boasts incredible monuments of carved architecture, transporting us to ancient times with Minoan presses, Roman tombs, and cavernous temples. These features, combined with the breathtaking cliffs, natural caves, Byzantine churches, and lush green surroundings, create a magical landscape.
In the village of Agios Thomas, south of the church with the same name, a short path begins at the statue of local hero Demetrius Varouchas. After a 2-minute walk, we arrive at one of the most impressive archaeological sites of Crete, located at Gria Mandra.
At Gria Madra, numerous towering boulders are scattered throughout the area, with a trail weaving between them. Many of these rocks contain carved Roman tombs that remain in excellent condition, inspiring awe in all visitors. Around the Agios Thomas area, there are about 30 tombs.
En route to the abandoned settlement of Ardachthia, we encounter a rock covered in ivy and the carved cavernous chapel of Kera Spiliotissa. Inside a recess, about 15 meters after the church, archaeologists discovered a Greco-Roman inscription in 1910 that can still be seen today.
The inscription clearly states in Greek, “Dedicated to the goddesses Larkia Artemis, Demeter and Kori,” who were all deities of Hades. Residents of Agios Thomas claim that inside the church, there was once a chasm known as the Gate of Hades, which has since been covered with cement.
All of these findings suggest that Agios Thomas was a site for worshiping chthonic deities, or the deities of Hades. Even today, when someone from Agios Thomas passes away, their clothes are dropped into an underground river to transport them to the other world.
The town of Hyrtakina was constructed on the steep hill Kastri near the village Temenia, Selino province, and thrived during the Hellenistic Era (4th century BC – 1st century AD). Nowadays, vegetation has covered the majority of the ancient city.Hyrtakina and Lissos established the Federation of Mounts in the 3rd century BC, a military and monetary union of the season, which also included Elyros, Pikilassos, and Tarra. These cities collectively confronted domestic and foreign policy for an extended period.Archaeological work has uncovered remnants of the double wall, buildings, part of the road that led to Lissos, a sanctuary of Pan, and a necropolis with tombs carved into the walls, which have already been looted.
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