Ancient Amnisos
On the eastern side of the expansive Karteros bay lies the small hill of Paleochora, which was once home to the Minoan settlement of Amnissos. The name Amnissos can be traced back to the Linear B tablets, the Minoan script, as a-mi-mi-so. Discoveries at Amnissos include a Minoan harbor, numerous buildings, and an outdoor archaic sanctuary where the god Zeus was worshiped. The settlement of Amnissos dates back to the 19th century BC.
Two separate ruins make up the archaeological ground here. The Minoan mansion of Lilies stands at the eastern side of the hill, and the Temple of Zeus Thenatas lies to the west of it.
Zeus and the Navel Valley
Mythology tells us that when Zeus was just a newborn baby, he had to be taken to the Dikti cave to hide from his father, Cronus. While en route and above Amnissos, his navel fell here, which led to the area being called Omfalio Pedio (Navel Valley) in ancient times.
The Minoan mansion of Lilies
At the eastern side of the hill, near the parking lot of the bustling Amnissos beach, the Minoan mansion of Lilies can be found. Dating back to the 16th century BC, the mansion features murals with floral motifs and blooming lilies. It is believed to have housed an important person, possibly the king of Knossos, Minos, during his vacation. The villa consisted of a hall, bathroom, sanctum, kitchen, and stone-paved areas.
The murals with lilies likely depict a sacred garden and are the primary evidence of Minoan artificial gardens. This is suggested by the lilies drawn in jagged frames, which may represent artificial ponds. Similar ponds can be seen in numerous Egyptian depictions of luxurious gardens.
Excavation and wartime damage
The mansion was destroyed by fire in the 15th century BC but was ultimately abandoned during the 12th century BC. The building was excavated in 1932 by professor Spiros Marinatos, but sadly, it was severely damaged by German troops during World War II.
The Temple of Zeus Thenatas
To the west of Paleochora hill, you will find the ruins of one of the largest temples of ancient Crete, the Temple of Zeus Thenatas. The temple was built in the 7th century BC and operated until the second century AD. Surrounding the temple, you will see a strong wall with boulders, a part of which is on the sandy beach. Inside the temple, a circular altar can still be discerned.
Things to do near Ancient Amnisos
Five beaches, sites and walks lie within 9 km of the hill, listed below with the nearest first.
- Swim at Karteros. The beach runs along the bay the site overlooks, 0.9 km away.
- See the Minoan villa at Nirou Chani. That archaeological site lies 4 km east along the same coast, with the Kokkini Hani beaches at 5.3 km.
- Carry on to Knossos. The palace sits 5.3 km inland, and it is the Minoan centre the mansion of Lilies is linked to.
- Spend a day in the city. Heraklion is 6.2 km west, and its attractions include the Archaeological Museum at 6.4 km.
- Walk the Astrakiano Gorge. The gorge starts 6.9 km from Amnisos, with the Kounaviano Gorge at 8.7 km.
Getting to Ancient Amnisos
Amnisos sits directly on the coast road east of Heraklion, at the eastern end of Karteros bay. Park at the Amnissos beach car park for the mansion of Lilies, since the site stands immediately above it. The beaches of Gouves continue the same coast 8.4 km further east, below the village of Gouves.
Inland from the coast the ground climbs towards the hill villages. The St John Monastery in Anopolis lies 5.9 km from the site, and Gouves village sits on the slope behind the coast.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Ancient Amnisos?
Ancient Amnisos is on the hill of Paleochora, at the eastern side of Karteros bay, east of Heraklion. The site lies 0.9 km from Karteros beach and 6.2 km from Heraklion city.
How old is the Minoan settlement of Amnissos?
The settlement dates back to the 19th century BC. Its name appears on the Linear B tablets as a-mi-mi-so, and the finds include a Minoan harbour, numerous buildings and an open-air archaic sanctuary of Zeus.
What is the mansion of Lilies?
The mansion of Lilies is a Minoan villa of the 16th century BC, named after the murals of blooming lilies found in it. It held a hall, a bathroom, a sanctum, a kitchen and stone-paved areas, and it may have housed Minos, the king of Knossos. Fire destroyed it in the 15th century BC and it was abandoned in the 12th century BC.
Why is Amnisos linked to Zeus?
Myth says the navel of the infant Zeus fell above Amnissos while he was being carried to the Dikti cave. The area was called Omfalio Pedio, the Navel Valley, in ancient times. The Temple of Zeus Thenatas stands west of the hill, built in the 7th century BC and in use until the second century AD.
Who excavated Amnisos?
Professor Spiros Marinatos excavated the mansion in 1932. German troops damaged the building severely during World War II.
Location
Ancient Amnisos is located at Ancient Amnisos, in the Heraklion region of Crete. The map below shows the exact spot; Google Maps and Waze give turn-by-turn directions.
