Kallikratis Gorge

In the heart of the Sfakia Province, nestled in the ruins of the village Kolokasia, a stream begins to form at the base of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) church. This stream, fed by the village’s water, meanders through the local olive grove before transforming into a rugged, small gorge known as Rechtas or Rektas – a name signifying ‘waterfall’ in the local dialect.

True to its name, shortly after the gorge’s onset, a breathtaking 20-meter high waterfall cascades down, barring further access to the gorge without the aid of a rope. Beyond this majestic waterfall, the gorge is adorned with awe-inspiring rock shelters and caves, once used by locals as animal paddocks.

The journey through the gorge also includes small waterfalls, a natural arch, and a grove of carob trees. Eventually, the canyon opens up, revealing an ancient trail that ascends up the eastern side, leading to a rock shelter. This shelter, perched high above the riverbed, provides stunning vistas of the gorge and the Fragokastello valley.

In recent years, this wild rock shelter has been transformed into a charming, cavernous temple, possibly the newest in Crete. This transformation was inspired by a priest from Sfakia, George Chiotakis, who received a divine vision from the Blessed Porphyrios of Athos, advising him to build a temple. Consequently, the church is unofficially dedicated to Saint Porphyrius, with his icons scattered throughout the temple, along with several icons of the revered Saint Anthimos from Cephalonia, who once resided in the Sfakia region.

The Skaloti Gorge, nestled within the extensive area of Fragokastelo, is one of many parallel canyons in the region. This compact canyon spans a distance of 2km, beginning from the picturesque Manikas plateau and concluding at the coastal village of Skaloti. The journey, which takes approximately 2.5 hours, involves hiking along an ancient path paved with stones and surrounded by steep inclines. Initially, the canyon is wide and open, but it gradually narrows and the walls become vertical. Vegetation in the area is primarily composed of bushes and undergrowth. The Perama stream traverses the gorge, finally emptying onto the shores of Lakki beach.

The Kapni Gorge, one of Eastern Sfakia’s most stunning canyons, remains largely undiscovered. The gorge begins as an open stream south of the Akones peak at Hionistra, located on the road between Askyfou and Asfendou villages. It concludes in the village of Nomikiana in the Sfakia province. In Hionistra, two streams in calcareous soils converge to form the Kapni Gorge after an hour’s walk. The canyon is extensive, requiring around four hours to traverse. It is among Crete’s challenging and perilous trekking gorges, with a rugged riverbed that forms dry waterfalls in certain areas, necessitating climbing.

It is not advisable for those inexperienced in mountaineering. The riverbed features several small caves that were previously used as sheepfolds. In one of these caves, there is drinking water, the only source in the harsh Kapni region. This water source is hard to find unless one is very familiar with the area. Kapni is home to beautiful vegetation, including maples and oak trees, and stunning walls of platy limestone in several places.

The name Kapni, meaning smoke, traces back to a story from the Venetian era. East Sfakia was once densely forested, providing refuge for Cretans fighting the Venetians. To counter this, the Venetians burned these forests, including the one in Kapni, which was so dense that the fire burned for weeks. The narrowness of the gorge created an oven-like effect, trapping the fire and significantly raising the temperature. The intense heat baked the mountain rock, similar to a lime kiln, and smoke lingered for days after the fire ceased. That autumn, a massive flood swept through the bare, fire-scorched hillsides, moving rocks with immense force to the gorge’s exit. This event resulted in a large deposit of sediment, creating the most impressive scree (locally known as sara) in Crete, visible from miles away. This scree starts at the gorge’s exit and extends to the village of Nomikiana.

Situated in the Sfakia province, Imbros Gorge is Crete’s third most frequented gorge, following Samaria Gorge and Agia Irini by Sougia. These are all part of the E4 European hiking path. The gorge’s breathtaking landscape and easy trail make it perfect for family trips. The gorge spans 11 km and the hike takes about 2-3 hours.

The journey begins in the quaint village of Imbros, nestled 700 meters above sea level.

The gorge’s initial section, known as Porofarago or Porolagos, is fairly broad. The trail starts off as a descent with relatively low sidewalls. As you go further, the canyon gradually narrows, the sidewalls rise, and the views become awe-inspiring. The canyon’s sides start to close in and rise, revealing various caves. The vegetation includes ancient cypresses, oaks, and maples emerging from the rocks.

Throughout the gorge, remnants of the old stone-paved path, once the main route from Sfakia to Chania, can be seen. The canyon has witnessed numerous battles between the Ottomans and the Christians during the Turkish Occupation of Crete, notably in 1821 and 1867.

Further along, you’ll pass the spot known as Airplane, where a German plane crashed during World War II (the wreckage is displayed in the war museum at Askyfou). Following this, you’ll come across the gorge’s first narrow passages and then reach the position Gournia (i.e. basins), where several small rock basins fill with water in the winter.

Next, you’ll arrive at the gorge’s most magnificent section, Stenada. Here, the gorge walls close in to 1.6m and reach a height of 300m! The rocks are adorned with stunning formations.

After this narrow stretch, the canyon broadens and you’ll near a rest area at position Mesofarango. Here, you’ll find a Venetian water cistern and the gorge guard’s hut.

A few meters ahead, you’ll cross a landslide and shortly after, the striking narrowing at Gremnaria. Following this, you’ll see another gorge trademark, the stone arch Xepitira. As you continue, you’ll navigate some narrow passages and soon arrive at the gorge’s exit by the village Komitades. Several taverns are located near the exit, providing a perfect spot to rest and grab a bite.

There are multiple bus services from Chania to Imbros during the summer. To catch the bus to Chora Sfakia, Imbros (where many hikers park their cars at the gorge’s entrance), or Chania, you’ll need to either walk 4 kilometers towards Chora Sfakion (be sure to check the schedules) or take a taxi from the gorge’s exit (which can be quite pricey).