Odigitria Monastery near Sivas

Odigitria is a male monastery in the protected area of the Asterousia Mountains in southern Crete, standing at 250 m and reached through the village of Sivas. Odigitria is one of the most historic monasteries on the island, and it holds a large estate of chapels and land that reaches down to the south coast.

The complex is built like a fortress, with the buildings ranged around a central church and part of the old wall still standing. Two of the sacred gorges of the Asterousia, Agiofarago and Martsalo, fall inside the monastery’s domain, which is why a visit here is usually combined with a walk down one of them to the sea.

The Asterousia, the Mount Athos of Crete

The Asterousia range has been a centre for asceticism in Crete for centuries, above all in its sacred gorges. Two of those gorges, Agiofarago and Martsalo, lie about 4.9 km from the monastery and now form part of its domain. The area is often called the Mount Athos of Crete, after the monastic state in northern Greece. The monastic tradition here is believed to go back to the Apostle Paul, who is said to have stopped in the area on his journey to Rome.

When Odigitria was founded and where its name comes from

Hermits built the monastery of Odigitria in the 14th century, in that already-sacred landscape. The name most likely comes from a copy of the icon of the Monastery Odigon in Constantinople, an icon attributed to the evangelist Luke and one of the most famous miraculous images in the Byzantine Empire.

Part of the 14th-century cross-roofed narthex still survives, and it carries important frescoes. Two of them show scenes from the synaxari of Agios Antonios and Paul of Thebes, and another set gives the 16 houses of the Akathist Hymn. The painted decoration also includes a scene of the monk Gregory and other monks being blessed by Christ.

The church and the fortified complex

The church at the centre of Odigitria has two aisles, dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (Kimisis) and to the Apostles Peter and Paul. A third aisle, once devoted to Saint Fanourios, has since been demolished. The buildings of the complex encircle that church, and the architecture is that of a fortress, with part of the wall still visible today.

The Tower of Xopateras stands near the main entrance and is the feature most visitors are pointed to first. Four icons painted by Angelos, the 15th-century Cretan artist, have also survived at the monastery.

What the monastery buildings hold

Odigitria kept everything a self-supporting community needed, and those working rooms are still in place. The buildings inside the complex are listed below.

• The baking house, where the bread was made.
• The olive mill and the wine press, which worked the estate’s own crops.
• Several warehouses and the cheese cellar.
• A small well that was used during sieges.
• The guest house, which was formerly the abbot’s cell.
• The abbot’s cell, which holds the library.
• The monks’ cells and the graves of the monastery’s abbots.

The chapels of the monastery’s domain

Some of the oldest chapels in the Asterousia belong to Odigitria, and several carry remarkable frescoes. The six chapels and their feast days are listed below.

• The cavernous chapel of Agia Kiriaki, celebrated on 7 July.
• The church of Saint Anthony, down in Agiofarago Gorge.
• The Panagia chapel, in Martsalo canyon.
• The chapel of Saint Eftychiani in the Vathys Lagos area, celebrated on 17 August.
• The chapel of Saint Andrew in the same area, celebrated on 30 November.
• The chapel of Saint John the Baptist, also at Vathys Lagos, celebrated on 29 August.

People connected with Odigitria

Odigitria was once home to the brothers Parthenios and Eumenios, who went on to found the monastery of Koudoumas and are honoured as saints today. During the Turkish occupation the monastery became stavropegic, which placed it directly under the Patriarch and was done to preserve its property.

Getting to Odigitria Monastery

Drive to Odigitria through the village of Sivas, which is the access road into this part of the Asterousia. The monastery sits at 250 m, above the coast and below the ridge. The Odigitria prepalatial cemetery lies 200 m away, so the two sites are one stop.

What else is nearby

The south coast beaches and the Mesara villages sit within about 6 km of the monastery. They are listed below by distance.

• The Odigitria prepalatial cemetery lies 200 m from the monastery.
• Kali Limenes beach is 4.3 km away on the south coast.
• Vathi beach sits 4.7 km out and Red beach 4.8 km.
• Matala village lies 5 km away, with Matala beach at 5.1 km.
• Pitsidia village is 5 km from the monastery.
• Stena beach lies 5.1 km out and Krigi beach 5.6 km.
• Martsalo beach is 5.5 km away, at the mouth of the monastery’s own canyon.
• Agiofarago beach sits 5.7 km out, where the gorge reaches the sea.
• Komos beach and the ruins of Ancient Kommos are both 5.7 km away.
• Platia Peramata beach lies 6.3 km from Odigitria.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Odigitria Monastery?

Odigitria stands in the Asterousia Mountains of southern Crete, at 250 m, and is reached through the village of Sivas. Matala lies 5 km away and the south coast beaches sit between 4 km and 6 km below.

When was Odigitria Monastery built?

Hermits built Odigitria in the 14th century. Part of the cross-roofed narthex from that period still stands, with frescoes of the synaxari of Agios Antonios and Paul of Thebes and the 16 houses of the Akathist Hymn.

Where does the name Odigitria come from?

The name most likely comes from a copy of the icon of the Monastery Odigon in Constantinople. That icon is attributed to the evangelist Luke and was one of the most famous miraculous images in the Byzantine Empire.

Why is the Asterousia called the Mount Athos of Crete?

The range has been a centre of Cretan asceticism for centuries, particularly in the Agiofarago and Martsalo gorges. The name borrows from the monastic state of Mount Athos in northern Greece.

Which gorges belong to Odigitria Monastery?

Agiofarago and Martsalo both fall within the monastery’s domain. The church of Saint Anthony stands in Agiofarago Gorge and the Panagia chapel in Martsalo canyon, and each gorge lies about 4.9 km from the monastery.

What is the church at Odigitria dedicated to?

The two-aisled church is dedicated to the Dormition of the Virgin Mary and to the Apostles Peter and Paul. A third aisle, once dedicated to Saint Fanourios, has been demolished.