Apezanes Monastery in Antiskari

Apezanes is a male monastery on a rocky plateau in the Asterousia Mountains, at an altitude of 440 m and about 63 km south of Heraklion. Apezanes, also written Apezana, is properly the Monastery of St. Anthony, and it is one of the oldest monasteries in Crete.

The monastery was built as a fort, and its shape still reads that way from below. A short valley runs from the village of Antiskari down to the beachfront of Platia Peramata, which puts the south coast about 5 km from the gate.

The fortress and why the Turks called it Toplou

Apezanes was built with fortress architecture, and the fort was originally rectangular, formed by the external walls of the complex buildings themselves. Three towers with cannons protected it. Those cannons gave the monastery its Turkish nickname: the Turks called it the Toplou monastery, from top, meaning cannon, the same name they gave the Toplou Monastery in Sitia.

Much of that military character has gone. Alterations in the early 20th century changed the fort-like complex significantly, so what stands today is a softened version of the original defensive plan.

The church and its icons

The central church sits on the edge of the building complex and has three aisles, built over an older St. Anthony church. Each aisle carries its own dedication and feast day, listed below.

• St. Anthony, celebrated on 17 January.
• The Transfiguration, celebrated on 6 August.
• The Three Hierarchs, celebrated on 30 January.

The carved iconostasis inside is the clearest sign of how wealthy the monastery once was. One of the icons on it is believed to be the work of El Greco, and the monastery also holds an icon of St. Anthony painted by Michael Damaskinos, the second most famous Cretan religious painter after El Greco.

The abbey and the working buildings

A two-storey abbey stands next to the church, and it was originally meant to house the Diocese of Arcadia, though the diocese never moved in. Around it are the monks’ cells, the guest house and the refectory, along with the 25 m deep well that supplies Apezana with water.

The monastery keeps a collection of religious relics as well, including ancient vestments, gold and silver crosses, gospels, icons and relics of saints.

History of Apezanes Monastery

During the Venetian period the abbey was the largest antipope centre in Crete, and it worked as a significant centre for literature and theology. Under the Ottomans it lost that role and became a modest rural monastery. A small rural settlement grew up alongside it, and the monastery is also connected with the founding of Apanosifis Monastery.

Getting to Apezanes Monastery

Two dirt roads reach the monastery, and both are signposted. Take the track from Plora village, or turn off the road that runs from Pompia to Kala Limania. Signs to Apezanes appear on either route, and the climb ends on the rocky plateau at 440 m. Heraklion lies about 63 km north, so the monastery is a long drive from the north coast rather than a quick detour.

What else is nearby

The Asterousia coast, the other monasteries of the range and the Mesara archaeological sites all lie within about 11 km. They are listed below by distance from Apezanes.

• Platia Peramata beach lies 5.1 km away, at the foot of the valley below Antiskari.
• Krigi beach is 5.5 km out on the same coast.
• Ancient Levena, the Leben archaeological site, lies 6.1 km from the monastery.
• Odigitria Monastery and the Odigitria prepalatial cemetery are both 7.9 km away.
• Kali Limenes beach sits 8.6 km out and Trafoulas beach 8.8 km.
• Tripiti Gorge runs 9.1 km from the monastery, down to Tripiti beach at 10 km.
• Kalyviani Monastery near Mires is 9.6 km away.
• Stena beach lies 9.8 km out.
• Pitsidia village and Kamilari village stand 10.4 km and 10.7 km away.
• The Minoan palace of Phaistos is 10.7 km from Apezanes and Ancient Gortyna 10.9 km.
• Agiofarago Gorge lies 11 km away.

Frequently asked questions

Where is Apezanes Monastery?

Apezanes stands on a rocky plateau in the Asterousia Mountains at 440 m, about 63 km south of Heraklion. The village of Antiskari lies below it, at the head of the valley that runs down to Platia Peramata beach.

How do you get to Apezanes Monastery?

Drive up one of two dirt roads, either from Plora village or off the Pompia to Kala Limania road. Signs to Apezanes are posted on both routes.

Why did the Turks call Apezanes the Toplou monastery?

Because three towers with cannons defended it, and top means cannon in Turkish. The Toplou Monastery in Sitia earned the same name for the same reason.

Is there an El Greco icon at Apezanes?

One icon on the carved iconostasis is believed to be the work of El Greco. The monastery also holds an icon of St. Anthony painted by Michael Damaskinos, the second most famous Cretan religious painter after El Greco.

What is the church at Apezanes dedicated to?

The three-aisled church is dedicated to St. Anthony, the Transfiguration and the Three Hierarchs. Their feast days fall on 17 January, 6 August and 30 January, and the church was built over an older St. Anthony church.

What was Apezanes Monastery in the Venetian period?

It was the largest antipope centre in Crete and a significant centre for literature and theology. The monastery declined into a modest rural house under the Ottomans.