Tihida beach

Livari, a secluded area situated 90km southeast of Agios Nikolaos and 7km east of Goudouras on Crete Island, is often a solitary spot. Just 2km east stands the power plant of Atherinolakkos, the only blemish on the otherwise pristine landscape. Livari boasts two pebbly beaches and numerous small coves, perfect for those seeking privacy or practicing naturism. While there is a lack of shade, a few tamarisk trees on the east Livari beach offer some relief.

Swimming in Livari is a unique experience, offering stunning views of the surrounding wilderness, including barren mountains, steep canyons, and the exotic island of Koufonissi. In addition to Livari’s main beach, you can drive west past a small group of 3-4 cottages to reach the lengthy eastern beach of Vlyhada. The name Vlyhada, meaning a place with brackish water, comes from a year-round spring located nearby. The beach is bordered by a dirt road and tall reddish walls.

Getting to Livari from Goudouras involves taking the road to the Atherinolakkos power station. After 4km, you’ll reach a junction where the right road leads to the factory and the local fishing lodge. Instead of taking this route, continue straight to the village of Agia Triada for another 1km until you reach a junction on the right that leads to Livari beach. The road initially starts as a paved path but eventually transitions into a manageable dirt track.

The Heromilia beach, situated in the Agia Triada region of Sitia province (also known as Tso), is just a 2km journey eastward from the Atherinolakkos Power Station. It holds the distinction of being the most western beach of the Livari beaches.

The beach forms at the mouth of the compact canyon Tripiti. The canyon derives its name from a unique hollow rock that stands a few meters north of the coastline; ‘tripiti’ translates to “with a hole.”

To reach the beach, one must descend from the summer residences of Agia Triada’s inhabitants towards the stream and then walk towards the sea. These are the first houses one encounters before reaching the main beach of Livari.

The small beach boasts clear blue waters and fine pebbles. However, its allure is somewhat marred by the Atherinolakkos Power Station. Despite this, the sea remains pristine, and the factory smoke only reaches the beach when the winds blow from the west.

The quaint and secluded village of Agia Irini is nestled 98km southeast of Agios Nikolaos and 11km south of Ziros village. Accessible through dirt tracks originating from either Kalo Horio or Hametoulo, the village is the gateway to the rugged Agia Irini gorge, which leads to a hidden cove across from the tiny islet of Hamili.

The beach boasts pebble shores and pristine blue waters, making it one of Crete’s most remote beaches. Its location away from bustling city centres, shrouded by towering cliffs and jagged rocks, makes it a serene escape. To reach this beach, one can either navigate the formidable gorge, drive along the dirt track from the village or sail by boat from Goudouras or Xerokambos. The beach is lined with tamarisk trees, offering a perfect spot for solitude. A trail also extends from Agia Irini Gorge to Xerokambos harbour.

The Agia Irini gorge consists of two parallel canyons that converge near the sea, where the dirt road to the beach lies. The canyons, with their rocky terrain, steep inclines and towering walls, offer a wild and untamed landscape. The westernmost canyon, in particular, can be quite daunting and risky for inexperienced hikers. A hike through the gorge, starting at an altitude of 500m near the Hametoulo settlement and descending to sea level, can take between 2-3 hours and can be quite strenuous on the knees.

The first beach you encounter when heading west in Xerokambos is Amatos harbour. It’s a naturally encompassed harbour featuring tranquil water. The beach, although remote, is pebbly and offers an ideal environment for spearfishing. Few tamarisk trees dot the landscape and there’s a ramp to facilitate boat launching. An accessible dirt road connects the harbour to the Xerokambos settlement, from which the path to Agia Irini beach starts.

Heading from the harbour to the Xerokambos settlement, after about 100 metres, you stumble upon a hidden bay. It’s filled with fine grey pebbles and has a smaller cove nearby. This area, known as Ligias Lakkos, can be reached via a stone path that winds through the towering cliffs that surround it. The landscape is breathtaking; rugged mountains tower behind you, a peaceful harbour is on your right, and the Kavalli islands are to your left.